New Electrical Work

No, you should not connect two wires to one lug that is only rated for one. This can lead to overheating and potentially cause a fire hazard. It is important to follow the manufacturer's guidelines for wire connection to ensure safety and proper functioning.

It is not recommended. Light fixtures have a specific wattage rating for safety reasons and should not be overloaded. The internal wiring in a fixture is the bare minimum required to make the lamp light and is not rated for the higher wattage. The device that screws into the lampholder does not have a grounding point so the equipment that you plug into it will not be grounded. Wall recepticals have a rating of 15 amp and are designed to take the current. Use it instead.

What size is the AC? Look at the power consumption rating of the AC unit; if it pulls anything close to 15 amps, a new breaker will not solve your problem.

There should be an information panel that shows the current draw of the AC. If the AC pulls more than the breaker can handle, you need to re-wire the outlet for the AC. You can't safely just replace the breaker with a larger one since that would result in a fire hazard.

No, it would not be safe because 250v is too high for that breaker.

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In North America all household breakers are rated at 120/240 volts. A 250 volt 15 amp breaker would would be a two pole breaker and take up two slots in the distribution panel. This can be pulled out and replaced with two separate 15 amp breakers or one 15 amp breaker and a slot panel filler to cover the second slot.

You don't provide enough information to answer your question specifically. If the 20 A breaker is providing 110 Volts it can handle 20 Amps for a time. For continuous use you don't want to exceed 16 Amps. As long as your two 110 Volt devices draw less than a total of 16 Amps when you add the current rating of each device, then you are okay.

That would need a busbar, an aluminium one with a cross section of 1 cm by 9 cm (or larger).

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A 600 MCM copper conductor with an insulation factor of 90 degrees C is rated at 475 amps.

A 300 MCM copper conductor with an insulation factor of 90 degrees C is rated at 320 amps.

A 3/0 copper conductor with an insulation factor of 90 degrees C is rated at 225 amps.

These size wires can be installed in parallel 600 MCM, tripled for 300 MCM or grouped in four 3/0 wires groups to achieve the amperage required.

Special parallel, three barrel and four barrel lugs have to be used to make the connection to the required load.

I assume you mean 125v, 12 amps and 1625 watts max extension cord. This is not technically a proper installation but it should work. The concern is how long are you running the extension cord and how and where are you making the splices. There are a lot of issues at hand that cannot be answered without more information.

Electricians generally dislike extension cords. Usually the conductors are small enough they will MELT AND BURN at a current flow that will NOT TRIP THE BREAKER. You should consider it temporary at best. It should not be forgotten nor hidden in a wall or ceiling under ANY circumstances.

Wire size determines how much current can be safely conducted. Insulation type and rating determines other factors, such as where the wire can be used and maximum voltage.

It should be noted that the high voltage lines that are hanging from the really large electrical towers are among a class of wires that have NO insulation around the outside of the wire. They are instead, connected to the towers with large insulators that prevent electrical energy from being lost through the towers.

The ground wires should not be terminated on the neutral bus. They should be terminated on to the ground bus which should be located on the back wall of the distribution panel. The wires don't have to be pigtailed when inserted into the ground bus. More that one wire can go under the terminal screws if you are running out of room. Shut the panel off and remove any ground wires that are now under the neutral bus terminals and move them to the ground bus. Some panels use a lug for a ground bus. All ground wires into the lug and tighten. In a ground fault condition it is the ground wires that are connected to the ground potential that trip the breaker, not ground wires connected to neutrals. Be safe.

www.csgnetwork.com/wiresizecalc.html says #3. (Though that seems a bit pessimistic, you might want to check another table) Remember when using this calculator that your total circuit length is twice the run of your wire (feed & return).

series, where the current flows sequentially through each outlet. If one outlet fails, it can disrupt the flow of electricity to all the outlets connected in the circuit. This type of wiring is not commonly used in homes due to the risk of overloading and potential safety hazards.

The formula you are looking for is I =W/E. Or Amps = Watts/Volts.

You would need to use a wire size that is rated for at least 40 amps to be safe and to meet the requirements of the air conditioner. A common wire size for this application would be 8 AWG copper wire, which is rated for 40 amps.

Connect the white and black wires back on to where the other black and white wires connected. There should also be a green pigtail coming out of the fixture which will be the ground. If it has a chain, then the wire running through the chain will be the ground wire.

In theory it should be able to take 15 amps indefinitely. In actual practice, however, you end up getting what is called 'nuisance tripping' as you approach 15 amps. This may be caused by many things including ambient temperature (temperature of the environment around it) or heat generated by adjacent breakers etc. So the code limits any planned load to 80% of the rating, or 12 amps in this case.

You have some serious wiring problems, for sure. My first guess is that your grounding conductor and neutral are touching somewhere and your ground is acting as the neutral when the neutral is disconnected.

The light coming on when the hair dryer is used is another mystery.

You need to hire a competent electrician to trouble shoot these problems.

Drive shaft,Strong magnet,Coil of wire

You can if you have a neutral wire present. If the existing switch is what is called a "switch loop" then you can not change the existing switch to a switched outlet. You can identify a switch loop by looking at the wires coming into the switch bow. If there are only one set of wires usually a black and white and they go directly to the switch then you have a switch loop

No, an outlet is only a distribution point.

A source of electrical energy would be the generation station, wind generator, photovoltaic cells (solar energy panels) or other devices that actually produce electrical energy by changing energy from one type (chemical, solar...) to another.

A number six wire, also known as 6 AWG wire, can typically hold around 55-65 amps of current, depending on the insulation type and installation conditions. It is important to follow local electrical codes and consult with a qualified electrician to ensure proper sizing and safety.

To wire two or more outside lights in a series, you would connect the live wire from one light to the live wire of the next light, and continue this connection for each additional light in the series. It's important to make sure all connections are secure and insulated to prevent any electrical hazards. Additionally, consider consulting a qualified electrician to ensure proper installation and adherence to local electrical codes.

Without knowing what you are planning as far as load (lights,welder, refrigerator, AC,power tools) I would run #3 copper for the ungrounded legs, #6 copper for the grounded conductor(neutral) and #8 copper for the grounding conductor. This would would be on a 100 amp breaker.

If the lights are plugged into outlets, you can buy timers from your local hardware store to do this.

If you need a whole circuit or more than one circuit to turn on and off together, you can buy timers to do this. But this requires modification to your existing circuits and should be done by a competent electrician.

First you need to decide what you are trying to accomplish. You can wire the Timer switch in series with or parallel to the 3-way switches. If in series then the 3-way switch function would depend on the timer state. If the Timer switch was ON then the 3-way switch could turn the connected device ON or OFF from either location. If the Timer switch were OFF the device would be OFF no matter what you did with 3-way switches. To wire in this fashion put the timer between the supply and the input to the switches.

If the Timer is in parallel then if the Timer is ON it doesn't matter what you do with the 3-way switch, the device will be ON as long as the Timer is ON. If the Timer is OFF then the 3-way switches will work in their normal fashion. To wire in parallel connect the supply to one side of the Timer and the device to the other.