Oldsmobile

Square bore and spread bore are terms used for 4 Barrel caburetors and the matching intake manifolds the carburetors are mounted on. The term(s) mostly describes the carburetor in normal usage but applies to both carb and manifold.. Square bore carburetor's venturi's are of equal size, ie 4 holes of the same diameter. The primaries generally open first , the secondaries open next with vacum or air flow through the carb air horn or sometimes through linkage designed to provid sequencual opening. On some hot rod/very high performance applications all 4 venturi's open together, generally for strictly perfomance motors where fuel mileage is not considered. Square bore carbs generally offer a little more power and a smoother power range. Spread bore carburetor means unequal in size venturi. These carbs have 2 equal size small venuri's plus 2 equal size large- huge, venturi's. The small venturi's are called primaries and are used for normal low power application, idleing, crusing at highway speeds for just normal easy driving. The primaries generally run a little lean on the jetting. The secondaries are much larger and used when max power is needed. The secondaries begin to open when the throttle is normally somewhere near or past or well past half throttle and open up quite quickly. The secondarie are open by vacum or flow through of air through the air horn, by demand. Rarely are they open by throttle linkage alone except at full pedal. At full throttle both the primaries and secondaries are fully open. The secondaries jetting is normally set richer than the primaries. Spread bore carbs generally deliver better fuel economy. If you drive them hard you soon lose the advantage of the better fuel economy. The intake manifolds match the bore sizes specifically for each type carb. You can change back and forth between carb types w/an adapter, however there is a small loss in performance potential when the carb and intake maifold are not matched... adapters work but not quite as well as with a matching carb and intake manifold. Edelbrock and others make after market intake maniflods that have large bores for spread bores that will work quite well with both style caruretors.

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It tells you how fast you are going.

well all that i have done to Monte Carlo 3.1 is chipped it which "said" that it should give it about 16 more horse power and i put a new cold air filter on it i cant really feel the power gain to much and i would also like to know what else i can do to gain some more hosepower

Assuming that you mean "wiper blade" (blade and frame) which are replaced often rather than "wiper arm" (piece from the spindle at the hood to the wiper blade) which are rarely ever replaced. Also, this question can't be answered exactly without the model of the vehicle. That said, most Oldsmobiles that year have either standard hook end arms or side lock arms. See Sources and Related Links below for videos and wiper blade info.

Only the dealer can provide this information. Some places will actually unlock it for you for free. You will have to have paperwork to prove you own the car.

If it is not blinking at all or blinks too fast, one of the bulbs is burned out.

It should with lots modifications

sequence is from the center out. torque in 3 stages. first 25 ft lbs second tighten 90 degrees [1/4] turn

third tighten 90 degrees [1/4] turn. you're done.

TH-350 is the automatic that would. Hope this helps.

A 1992 Oldsmobile may not shift out of park because the transmission is stuck. Check to transmission fluid to ensure it is at the proper level.

there is a small leak in the hoses or around the outside rim of your radiator

From my unfortunate experience and the amount of information I gathered on the subject, two sources of faults can make your engine cut out under load (I assume it is not a diesel engine): ignition or fueling. Ignition: if the spark is "weak", it will be smothered when the engine is under load, giving poor or no combustion. Main reason for this would be bad High Tension leads or ignition coil primarily, or too big a gap in spark plugs. Fueling: A clogged filter or an ageing/dying fuel pump would allow the engine to idle or rev freely under no load, but as soon as you are asking for some power from the engine it would just die. In both cases, the engine may seem to be running perfectly OK when not under load. Hope this helps.

8.00 x 14-inch Tires (Coupe), 8.50 x 14-inch Tires (Convertible).

I say the local library has this book you need, go there find the page with pictures of how to change a serpentine belt for 1995-98 olds and copy page or check out the book. This is not a easy task you have chose unless you are a mechanic be careful, one mess up and you could lose you entire cars engine or cost you a lot of extra money. Think Safe Always disconnect the cars battery before starting this job.

The length of time it takes to change a crankshaft position sensor on this car depends on the people working on it. It can take 1-5 hours depending on the person(s) making the change.

If you are doing a filter change at home it will take 6qts but a normal transmission has 11qts in its entire system for what it costs to buy the fluid and filter and the mess you will make. if you look around you can find a shop that will do an entire fluid and filter change for around $100. By doing it your self you will have about $50.and only getting half the fluid changed so spending the extra is a very good investment.

The fill cap and neck are supposed to be at the high point of the system to help air bleed out, but often they aren't. And even if they are, you need all the natural help you can get. So jack up the front of the car, which gets the coolant fill neck as high as possible. Check for air bleeds on the engine. Sometimes you'll see an obvious air bleed, such as a boltlike item threaded into a hose. If there's an air bleed, open it. If there are several, open them all. Pour in the required amount of antifreeze slowly until you see coolant oozing out of the open air bleeds. Then close the bleeds and top off the system with the remaining 50/50 mix. If the system has a heater coolant valve, close it by moving the temperature control lever or knob to cold. With the engine running at fast idle and warmed up, have a helper move the lever or knob to hot while you listen at the coolant valve. If after the first rush of coolant you hear a continuous gurgling noise, there's still air in the coolant, and you should be prepared to watch the coolant level in the reservoir over the next few weeks.

I just read the solution is to take the lower bolt out of the engine mount on the engine side it has a spacer that comes out letting you slip the belt through and replace it. The tesioner is a small idler pulley at about the 9 o'clock position when fasing the engine. I just used a socket and breaker bar on the bolt on the front of it and gave a dood heave so slack it off and then slid it off the pully. Installing is just the reverse

The fuel pump is located in the gas tank of the car. The tank needs to be pulled.

When owning a car it is important to know how much replacement parts will cost. A 1992 Oldsmobile Royale brake and ball joints will cost between $15 and $60+.

That would depend on which model 1993 Olds you are referring to. A Google search on 1993 Oldsmobile ??? Specifications, will provide you with your answer.

I have a 1961 Oldsmobile F85 runs great all original! Four door, this was the last year they made the V8 aluminum block. Questions can be answered at twowheelgypsy@gmail.com

4/7/08 -Yes -I do , a 1962 f85 2dr with factory buckets & 4 barrel, give me a call (631) 833-5690

I have a 1961 Olds F85 ready for restoration. It is a 2dr. It has the stalk aluminum V8. Every thing is there with many extra parts including high compression heads, 4 barrel manifold and spare block. This is a very rare car and will appreciate in value.

hemmings.com/hmn/stories/2010/05/01/hmn_feature5.html

If you have power windows or doors, make sure you disconnect the negative. You will need to pry off the surrounding plastic of the window switch area. Then disconnect the the electrical components. Next pry off the small circle of plastic surrounding the trunk release button, allow the button to fall into the door. Next pry off the small triangle of plastic up near the mirror/upper portion of door. Then remove the screws for the door. There are three screw, two are under a small oval piece located near the handle, pop off the oval with a flat head screwdriver and remove the two screws. Next find the red plastic reflector, pop this off, you will find another screw to remove. At this point either get a door panel removing tool or flat head screw driver to pop the door off. I recommend the tool so that you won't scratch up your paint (its $7 at autozone). Start at the base of your door and move around popping it off as you go, when you have finished popping it off, make sure there is no more electrical connected, if so you need to disconnect them.