It is on the right hand side of the steering column by the column support bracket. It is tucked in behind and you need to feel for the round device. It can pretty hard to find.
It sounds like it could be an alternator problem, the easiest way to determine this is to disconect the battery while it is running, if it stalls, or bogs out, replace the alternator. ( but it could just be faulty wire conections. ) hope this helps.
There are markings on the camshaft sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket. When one is lined up with a notch in the rear timing belt cover, the other should be lined up with the 10 degree mark on the front timing belt cover. Note that you will probably have to remove the front right wheel and splash guard to see one set of markings and the front timing belt cover to see the other.
the cam will open the valve at the wrong time and possible smash them into the pistons
**** that answer is incorrect.
To the best of my knowledge, the 2.0l engines are "non interference" engines, which means that even if the valves were completely open at the exact opposite wrong time (open when the piston is at the top of it's stroke) the valves will NOT contact the top of the piston.
What makes you think your belt is off that far?
It is the round black plastic thing i beleave on the right hand side or the DRIVER side of the car it has the plug wires going to it
have you tried using two people at a time to open the hood - one to pull on up on the hood while the other pulls the interior release?
only way my '94 Accord would open. (or I prised release open with a screw-driver and pulled the hood myself)
hope it helps
Yeah, I tried that to no avail. The cable seems to be broken at the latch mechanism. I don't think I can remove the grill, either, without the hood open. I can get a screw driver into the hood space but there doesn't seem to be any access to the catch spring. Anyone have any other thoughts? This happened with my daughter's '96 Accord, I don't know if it will work on a Civic. I crawled under the front of the car and "carefully" slid a long metal rod up past the radiator and pushed on the release lever for the hood.
Maybe this will help you. I hope so. http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/vauxhall_archive/t-204070.html FriPilot
The fusible links on my '89 Z24 are located at the starter solenoid where the end of the positive battery cable attaches to the large terminal. There may be a fusible link near the positive battery cable in the 10 gauge wire (not the heavy gauge one). Good luck.
Fuel pump, blown fuel pump fuse, fuel filter clogged, fuel pressure regulator, or defective ECU.
Struts can be a very dangerous I would recomend you take your vehicle to a worthy mechanic. If you have the right tools to where you can compress the coil springs than it is a relatively easy job.
The vaccum door near the gas pedal is broken or not receiving vaccum.
Hey Richard==It is quite involved but if you want to try it get a manual on your car. It will have pictures and everything. GoodluckJoe
Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicated process, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions go to the related question on the right side of the page "How do you replace a head gasket?"
You can't. The springs around them need to be removed with a spring compressor and put back on the new struts with the spring compressor if the springs are still good. These springs are under very high tension and if you try to do it yourself you'll get a strut right through your skull! The rear shocks are easy, but for struts, take it to a professional, then it will be aligned properly too.
It sounds like it might actually be the ignition switch.
You do not reset the check engine light on that year of sunbird, it will go off automatically whenever you fix whatever problem the computer is reading. Most likely it is one of your sensors that is malfunctioning. Check your Air Intake Temp Sensor (AIT) and your Oxygen Sensor (O2) as they are the most likely culprits.
There is a snap ring that fits onto the handle itself. A flat screw driver, steel ruler or similar "tool" slid between the handle and door liner will allow you to release the snap ring from the shaft that holds it onto the handle. Looking at the handle with the knob to the right, the ring slides off to the left. Chilton book #28320 Page 10-13 Fig. 43 gives a good picture. Hope this helps. Langalier@hotmail.com.
YOU CANT BUY A BULB CALL YOU PONTIAC DEALER AND HE WILL EXPLAIN WHAT HAS TO BE DONE
The entire cluster has to be replaced. This has happened to me 2 times now. The part is about $300 and the dealer HAS to install it. It takes about 3 hours to be done. This is something that you have to do if you ever want to sell the car, since you have to have the mileage.
I have had the bulb on the odometer out for two years now. you can still read the mileage by pointing a flashlight to the odometer, from the side.
The Cluster DOES NOT have to be replaced, i fixed mine for less then $1. And if your dealer charged you 3 hours labour they ripped you off, it takes about 30 minutes to replace the cluster. Remove your top dash pad (remove airbag fuse first), remove your cluster, take off the back cover (6 screws) and then locate the odometer bulb, turn and remove it, then solder a small 12v bulb from your local auto parts store in its place, very simple and a hell of alot cheaper
All I did was remove the screws for the dash removed the dash then removed the cluster and the 6 screws. I then went to my local scrap yard did the same thing to a scraped sunfire there. They did not charge me for the bulb since I removed it my self. Only a Sucker would bring it to a dealership. I'm a girl and I had no problem took me less than an hour!
Question for Last answer:
WHAT IS THE PART NUMBER TO THE BULB?
4 Liters if you use a standard recommended oil filter.
Call 911 and wait until the Highway Patrol/State Police arrive to assist you.
Most of the Gm automatics have no plug. This forces you to remove the pan in order to access fluid for a change, this in turn gives you access to the filter itself.