Satellite Television

Just pulling your leg...

Satellite signals are affected by water droplets in the air because they can behave like dipoles, especially in the microwave frequencies. The droplets either scatter, absorb or reflect the signal, causing signal degradation.

DRO vs PLL LNBF FAQ Quite a few questions have came up about PLL and DRO LNB/LNBFs. There has even been some criticism from certain people in the industry. Many people don't understand DRO or PLL. This FAQ should address most questions concerning DRO v PLL and explain what each will and will not do.

Q. What part of a LNB/LNBF does DRO or PLL refer to?

A. Every LNB/LNBF needs to generate a frequency known as the L.O. (Local Oscillator) frequency. This is used to mix with the satellite signal and to output a lower frequency that your satellite receiver can tune to. This is commonly called the "LNB frequency" in your STB settings. Examples are 10600, 10750 and 11250. DRO and PLL are two different L.O. types and methods used to generate the LNB frequency.

Q. What is the difference between DRO and PLL oscillators?

A. DRO (Dielectric Resonator Oscillator) is a simple device usually consisting of a ceramic disc that resonates at a desired frequency. DRO's are usually inexpensive, fluctuate greatly with temperature changes, and are typically not very stable. High stability DRO's do exist and are very expensive. DRO's used in cheap LNB/LNBFs are of the inexpensive, less stable design, with a typical stability of +/- 1MHz to 3MHz.

PLL (Phase Locked Loop) oscillators, simply put, use a more accurate reference clock and a circuit that repeatedly feeds back the output signal and adjusts its output to be accurate and stable. PLLs are typically more expensive, especially for higher frequencies and are used in devices where a high degree of accuracy is required. PLLs do not suffer nearly as much from temperature/frequency variations. PLL's in commercial grade expensive LNB/LNBFs have stabilities from +/- 500kHz all the way down to 25kHz or better.

Q. Who uses DRO LNB/LNBFs?

A. DRO's are typically used in cheaper LNB/LNBFs by end users that do not require a high degree of accuracy for signal conversion and reception. They work sufficiently to lock large bandwidth or "fat" signals such as most DVB-S MPEG-2 carriers that do not require sophisticated equipment or accuracy to receive. Manufacturers use DRO's for end user products because of ease of manufacture and super low cost. A good example of where a DRO performs "adequately" would be most of the religious and ethnic programming on 97W/Galaxy 19. These powerful and out of date DVB-S MPEG-2 signals do not require stability and accuracy for decent reception. Almost any brand low quality LNB/LNBF will work for these type of signals.

Q. Who uses PLL LNB/LNBFs?

A. Until recently PLLs have been used almost exclusively by commercial customers that require a high degree of accuracy, stability, and the ability to lock low bandwidth and/or weak satellite signals. Some well off hardcore hobbyists run similar equipment to commercial setups, typically costing $300 - $1000+ for the individual feed and LNBs.

Q. Will a PLL LNB/LNBF outperform a typical DRO?

A. Normally yes, but not always. It depends on the type of signal. The before mentioned "fat" and powerful DVB-S MPEG-2 signals on 97W/Galaxy 19 already come in super strong and perform well on outdated equipment. A PLL is not needed nor will it help much under these conditions. In fact, if you have a fixed, dedicated dish and a middle of the road LNBF optimized for that dish you might be able to achieve slightly better levels than a PLL on the same setup. If you happen to be one of the very few people that only receives religious or ethnic programming for 97W with a dedicated MPEG-2 only system a DRO will work just fine. For the remaining 99.999% of the market a PLL will almost always outperform any of the cheap DRO's on the market.

I do see some gain on 97W with a PLL, but nothing dramatic and nothing compared to PLL performance on more difficult signals.

-A PLL will almost always significantly outperform DRO on weak signals.

-A PLL will almost always significantly outperform DRO on DVB-S2 signals.

-A PLL will almost always significantly outperform DRO on high FEC signals.

-A PLL will lock and bring in signals that even a good DRO cannot.

Q. Why does a PLL perform better on difficult signals?

A. A simple analogy would be threading a needle. Someone with shaky hands (a less stable DRO) will probably be able to thread a big needle (fat, strong signal) successfully. A steady handed person (high stability PLL) can thread the same needle with the same results. Now take a fine needle with a very small head (narrow bandwidth DVB-S2 signal). The shaky hands (less stable DRO) either cannot do it at all or will be very slow and poor performing at the task. The non-shaking hands (PLL with stable signal) is able to thread the small needle without much difficulty.

Q. If a PLL is so much better and more expensive, how does DMS suddenly have them at a low price?

A. A manufacturer recently developed a whole PLL oscillator on a single IC for Ku band applications. The IC is manufactured in great quantities (30,000pc minimum order) allowing prices to come down compared to other PLL LNBs. The technology advancement along with the manufacturing quantity has dropped the cost to build a PLL LNB/LNBF significantly.

Q. Why doesn't anyone else have an inexpensive PLL yet?

A. They will eventually. None of the American distributors have the money or influence to buy the 30,000pc minimum of the new IC. They will have to wait for a company in China to do it, and then buy smaller quantities of an "off the shelf" with a private label on it. DMS is partnered with the Taiwan company that manufactures the new Ku PLL.

Strangely enough, one of the other USA satellite distributors that is highly critical of PLLs attempted to buy the PLL from the Taiwan company and became critical of the PLL and company only after being turned down!

Q. Who are the main critics of the new Ku PLL, and PLL's in general?

A. Distributors and dealers with warehouses full of outdated DRO's that are not selling. Guys that have a narrow range of customers that only aim at 97W/Galaxy 19. Guys that have not tested it for themselves.

Q. Do I really need to buy a PLL?

A. Depends.

If all you receive is "fat" DVB-S MPEG-2 like 97W/Galaxy 19 and you don't have signal issues or missing channels, what you have will work just fine.

If you are a typical FTA hobbyist, you will benefit from a PLL. You will get higher signal strengths (quality) on most signals, higher rain fade resistance, higher stability. You will almost certainly be able to bring in more channels and stabilize weaker and borderline feeds. PLL will help stabilize troublesome DVB-S2 signals. If you have problems with Montana PBS, NBC S2, FSTV or LPBS the PLL will likely help. If you feedhunt you should lock more wildfeeds and bring in many of the weaker ones.

Q. Will a PLL solve every issue?

A. No. There are always limits such as your other equipment, installation, or signals that are just out of reach. This will always be the case in the FTA hobby at any level. PLL will almost certainly significantly improve and stabilize your current hobby system and allow you to get the maximum out of your dish size and DVB-S2 STB

Many people do not understand what free to air keys or FTA KEYS do for your receiver. Keys are simply the manual way of inputting the latest codes in your receiver. Most people have certain receivers or are aimed at particular satellites like Globecast that require keys instead of files. Press menu button on your remote:

#1 Go to parental control...

#2 Go down to "second pin" option & enter 0000

#3 Then go to nagravision and select it by pressing ok button on your remote...

#4 In Nagravision window you should be in the box that is Entitled "Provider ID"...scroll to the right (press right arrow button on remote) until it switches to Dishnetwork (00 01)

#5 Now In Nagravision window go down (press down arrow on remote) to the box that contains "00" entitled "Key Number"

#6 While in the box (highlighted "Key Number") that contains "00", scroll to the right until you see nagravision 2 at the top left of your screen

#7 While in Nagravision2 you should still be in "Key Number" box and the number in that same box should be "00"...this is for Key 00

#8 Scroll down (press down arrow on remote) to key data and enter the new supplied key for 00 (within this site is the key change for Nagravision2)..take note on how to enterletters in the lower portion of the screen (ex. letter E=FAV button on remote)

#9 Once key is edited select OK button on your remote (OK-STORE confirmation blinks twice in lower right of screen)

#10 go back to the "00" box and move one click to the right which should take you to "01"..this is to edit the "01" key

#11 Follow Steps 8 & 9 above (this time enter key data for key 01 instead of 00)

#12 Click exit and click ok or yes to save changes then exit all the way out and you should be watching tv

Note: For Bev keys, at step #4 change Provider ID to 09 - 01 http://www.ftaprofessionals.tv/pansat-3500-instructions/283-how-manually-enter-keys.html

Home satellite services and cable companies take their programming off of satellites. That being said, the cable companies may receive their programming from different satellites located in orbit at different locations. That's what the cable company's `head end' has an array of receiving dishes at their site. Then they combine the signals and send it through wire cables to the receivers in your home.

With satellite TV, they too receive their programming of of the various satellites, but then return it up to their own satellites where they then directly retransmit the channels back down to you.

If you've ever seen a cable company's earth station (head end) you'll also notice that they have much larger dishes for reception than those who own home satellite set-ups. Their dishes need to be at least 5 meters across and sometimes, quite larger (for C-band systems as compared to the Ku-band systems) whereas a home receiving dish will be approximately 18" in diameter.

The larger dish of course, at the cable company, captures more of the satellites signal. The advantages of this is that in heavy rain or snow conditions, they're still able to receive the information and provide a video signal. With the smaller dishes, they're prone to having the signals blocked by heavy rain or snow and consequently, you could lose some, if not all of your signal. This fortunately has been corrected to some extent by satellites that retransmit with higher power than say, 10 years ago. The downtime due to heavy weather is minimal though, and averages probably less than one or two percent per year, on average.

I've had cable, DirecTV and Dish network, and the interruptions to weather aren't that significant here in the midwest. Do I prefer it over cable? Yes. Mainly because cable systems can be noisy at times because of poor connections and aging cables. Of course, that impacts the digital signals a lot less than the analog signals and soon it'll be a moot point.

What it really comes down to, is in the selection of the availability programming and fees. Used to be that cable offered one or two HBO options for around 10-11 dollars a month. Satellite systems offered the complete HBO lineup for the same amount (I think it was around 7 available channels at the time) for the same amount. That may have changed, so I can't make that claim any longer.

Satellite seems to be a few dollars less expensive than cable, too. And I'm happy to report, that out of the last 15 years I've been on satellite, I've never had to call the company to have them come out and fix anything.

A lot of the choices you'll make will probably be depending on program options, price and availability. There are some situations where satellite systems will not work because the dish has to point to the southern sky. If buildings, trees or other obstructions are in the way, your only choice may be cable.

Whatever you do, before you buy, do your research. Take the time to visit the various web pages of the satellite providers as well as the cable company. Do some comparison shopping and choose what you like best.

Answer

Here is a website that I used to compare. Its pretty objective and compares Satellite to cable as well as lists some providers for both services. http://www.dishtvreviews.com/