Snowmobile Racing

That all depends on the engine. In 2005 the XCSP was built with a four different twins from 500 to 800cc.

From what I remember the approximate numbers were as follows:

500 - 100hp

600 - 110hp

700 - 124hp

800 - 134hp

The ec540d was made in 1979 & 1980 only. There is no 1995 model. Do you mean the XVL model XL540 that started in 1985 as XL549J? Every year the last letter went up, such as 1986 XL540K, 1986 XL540L and so on.

There is no reason why not, however you may want to make sure your snowmobile has reverse. You would also have to rig it up yourself as I haven't seen this done before.

the oil filter is located behind a plate on the lower right hand side of the motor. It is where you right foot would be if you were on it, it has three bolts.

about 115 mph on radar

Anywhere from $100 to $13,500

yes

11.8

Buy a sound can at your local snowmobile dealer

Assuming all the jets are cleaned, you first would adjust your thorottle screw to about 1500 RPM. Then for fine tuning you would adjust the air flow screw at the front of the car at 1/4 turn increments.

Anywhere from 60 to 85.

the worlds fastest factory made snowmobile is the z1 turbo at about 148 MPH.

a stock apex will top out at about 110 mph , give or take, depending on conditions......now turbo charge it and it will go 150+ mph

fuel air mix= 1 turn Idle = 2 turns after contact with slide in carb Set carb first, then oil pump pump = align two marks, one on cable lever, one on pump casting

to do fun stuff in the snow

xp-s, amsoil, or blue marble.

it is when a snowmobile climbs up a hill.

99 600cc Vmax, 120nm, 85 ft lbs for primary sheave 200 nm for spider and sliding sheave secondary sheave 64nm 6nm for bolt on weights and 3 nm for nuts on weights Yamaha suggests nuts and bolts be tightened in 2 stages.

it varies a lot on the snowmobile so any where from 60 to about 150mph

I have a stock 1999 Scrambler 400 4x4 that I GPS'd at 67mph and I'm 240lbs. They are quick for the price.

If it has variable exhaust ( the round dome type things on the front of the engine ), those could be extremely dirty and are unable to move. If this is it, buy the new gaskets for it, take them out, and clean them up. When you say compression is good, it must be at least 100psi in each cylinder ( 125psi per cylinder means perfect compression for that sled ). In most cases, under 100 psi in the cylinders means time for a rebuild, and if one of the cylinders is significantly lower than the other side ( even if your compression numbers are still high ), it's time to take the motor apart and take a look.

Place a support under the rear swingarm. Remove the right rear wheel and tire assembly. Then remove the dust cover from the end of the axle. This will exposes the end of the axle, with a castle nut and cotter pin. Push the cotter pin out of the castle nut. Remove the nut from the end of the axle. After removing the nut, gently tap on the rear of the spindle, until it slides off of the axle. Then remove the three bolts securing the chain guard to the sprocket. To loosen the chain, you will either have to remove the master link, or adjust it to a looser setting. Remove the chain after loosening it. Three more bolts hold the sprocket in place on the hub assembly. Remove them, and slide it off of the axle.

There should be an engine id tag on the engine stating the cc.

I have a nice Indy 500 sitting in the driveway. It's a great trail sled, but a racer she isn't...

4 stroke is better than 2 -more torque last longer that is why gm stoped making 2 stroke diesels