I have a 2001 and a 2007 Avalon. They each have two air filters; one for the engine and one for the passenger compartment. The engine air filter is under the hood. The passenger air filter is behind the glove box. On newer Avalons, the filter is more easily accessible since you only need to open the glove box. On older Avalons, you must disconnect the glove box to get behind it. (see other posts regarding how this is done)
Hey Lee==there are screws on the inside of the door.Be careful as there are a lot of sharp edges there. GoodluckJoe
To replace the window washer reservoir, you must first locate the reservoir under the hood, usually along the side fender area. (You can follow the rubber hose that is attached to the spray nozzle down to your reservoir). Now detach the two wires connected to the little pump motor inside the reservoir, and any bolts securing the reservoir to your car. You may need to look for the bolts. Take your time, figure out how the thing is secured, and get er out of there. If the thing is buried, you may have to remove another part to get to the reservoir. If this is the case, take your time (maybe take a picture), keep track of your nuts and bolts, and keep with it. Good Luck
My 2005 Sienna XLE Limited takes 5 quarts with filter change.
Need to pull codes to find out what is happening. Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. Disconnecting the battery can create other headaches and will not likely solve your dilemma. Best bet is to contact the local snap-on dealer and have him refer you to a known good shop that specializes in this technology-he will know. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. This is an needed in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights
around 100 dollars
It is impossible. Buy a new one. Don't waste your time!
I found a good fix @ http://www.findonefindall.com/toyota-sienna/ Please contact Toyota (phone number in your owner manual) to document this defect, the more complaints they receive, the better the chance of a recall.
A more complete URL to the page referenced in the second answer is ...
I used that successfully to repair the broken rear door latch on my 2000 Toyota Sienna. ("Buy a new one" is ~$65. I made the repair with tools and screws lying around the house in about an hour's time. Repair at the dealer reportedly is ~$300.)
EASY TO DO YOURSELF
1. Pop off end cap at BASE of wiper arm.
2. Remove nut with 10mm wrench or ratchet.
3. Remove whole arm. Might have to rotate counter clockwise to
work it off.
4. Fold wiper blade assembly all the way back and it just slides out at angle.
5. Set new blade assembly in and reassemble arm and cap
They should have these instructions in the dealer part bag because I could
have broken the wiper arm. Luckily I googled this question after I became frustrated on how to remove the old one. I attempted to change the rear wiper on my 2005 Sienna and although I now understand how to go about this, I was not successful in completing it. Here are the steps to follow, perhaps this will be helpful: 1. You will notice that the rear wiper arm does not pull away from the glass the way the front arms do. That is because of the plastic protective cap tat covers the bolt and nut on which the arm swings. You need to start by removing the cap. Spread the sides of the cap and slide and lift it away from the glass to remove it. 2. Once the cap is removed the whole arm will swing out away from the glass. The wiper will detach from the fixed portion of the arm in a similar fashion to the front wipers - it unhooks easily. Be sure to note which end of it faces what direction; it can only be replaced one way. 3. You will notice that the wiper frame (not sure if this is correct nomenclature, but lets go with it) is not your standard Canadian Tire replaceable wiper. Because of this, you need to replace the actual wiper blade (the rubber part separate from the frame). If you have purchased a replacement wiper including the frame and the blade, you will need to separate the new blade from the new wiper frame and use it to replace to old wiper blade. This probably involves a pair of pliers, and some careful sliding and pulling of the blade through the wiper frame. I was unsuccessful at separating the new wiper blade from its frame in step 3 (the new blade was destroyed in the process), so I ended up putting my old wiper blade back on the wiper frame and replacing it on the van. I think I'll have the thing changed by the pros when I next service the vehicle. Nevertheless, perhaps this information will be useful to someone more adept at this type of thing.
If you are asking about the CABIN AIR FILTER: read on.
The Cabin Air Filter is located directly behind the Glove box for the Sienna (CE, LE Model.)
1. push the sides in on the glove box to disengage the latches.
2. release the restraining arm on the right side of the glove box to release it.
3. Behind the glove box you will find the Filter door push on the tabs and release the filter door.
4. Slide out the filter and replace it with a new one.
5. Reinstall in reverse order.
yastoor ul hassan
The arm rest can be removed from the seat on a 1998 F150 by locating the bolts holding it on. Remove the bolts with the proper tool and life the armrest from the seat carefully.
P0125 (Closed Loop Fuel Control Insufficient Coolant Temp).
SAE DTC P0125=Coolant Temperature Insufficient for Closed Loop Operation.
Manufacturer DTC P1135 (for Toyota) means A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1 (Set when the heater operates, heater current exceeds 8A or heater current of 0.25A or less).
The A/F sensor contains a ECU-controlled heater. At start-up, the heater helps warm the A/F sensors to quickly operating temperature. With minimal exhaust gas flow, the heater keeps the A/F sensor from cooling down.
a. Disconnect the A/F sensor connector.
b. Using an ohmmeter measure the resistance between terminals +B and HT. Resistance: 0.8 - 1.4 ohms at 20°C (68°F). If the resistance is not as specified, replace the sensor.
Torque: 44 Nm (440 kgf.cm, 31 ft.lbf)
c. Reconnect the A/F sensor connector.
P0125 set if after the engine is warmed up, A/F Sensor Output* does not change when conditions (a), (b), (c), and (d) continue for at least 1.5 min.:
a. Engine speed: 1,500 rpm or more
b. Vehicle speed: 25 - 62 mph (40 -100 km/h)
c. Throttle valve is not fully closed
d. 140 sec. or more after starting engine
*Output values changes inside ECM only
Occassionally vehicle misses or hestitates when you accellerate.
I suggest checking for a blown afr fuse in the engine compartment block. If ok check the sensors for proper operation. If they stay at 3.3v or if 02 sensors, they flat line replace them.
Malfunction with the #1 O2 sensors on both the right and left bank so my recommendation would be to replace both the bank 1,sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1, they are both located in the exhaust manifold.
Air fuel sensor is probably the problem; that is what the code po125 is really foR
Problem deals with bank 1 only(cly1,3,&5). Look up TSB for air/fuel part #'s on 3.0. Rear update # differ from front(near radiator). If # of both same or rear has RAV #, which can happen at parts,the A/F sensor will cause this kind of problem.
It is in the ducting before the throtle body.
Disconnect the power window switch plug from the connector that connects it to the motor inside the door. It should be like a male and female type plug, all you need to di is locate the tab and slide the 2 apart. The circuit that remains on the door will be the one that goes down to the motor inside the door. The plug you want is the one under the switch that you push back and forth for up and down. Get a circuit tester small handheld unti that reads voltage and ohms and etc. (usually for less then $20.00). Make sure your circuit tester has a good battery. Turn the meter on and set it to DC volts and set it to 20. You are looking for a reading roughly to be 12volts on the meter. You will see the circuit tester has a red and black wire. Look at the connector and insert the lead of the red end into either the up or down terminal. Put the Black wire to a ground. Turn your ignition on, the meter should read zero. If you have the red lead against or in the up terminal, push the power window switch like you want to raise the window and watch the meter. You should get voltage, maybe 12 volts to read on the meter. The switch should allow the voltage to go to the motor to run the window mechanism to raise your window. Now try it but put the red lead on the DOWN side of the switch with the Black lead still connected to a ground. See if you get a reading on that. If your swicth is only working on one side I would suspect a faulty window switch. BUT if you get a voltage reading on the meter on both the up and down side tests, then this shows the voltage i s getting through the switch and now your problem lies in the window motor itself. The window switch should, note should be cheaper to replace than the motor but in today's electronics, who knows. If you have never used a circuit tester before, read the manual so you will know how to use it.
Could be the heater core leaking Could be a bad windshield or door seal Don't forget a possible plugged A/C drain plug. Does this happen when running your a/c?? If you have a sun-roof, the drains could be plugged. If so, they will leak in bad weather, causing water to run down the passenger door post. If the rain is hard enough, it will soak the passenger floor mats. I took mine in to Toyota and asked them to clean the drains (because I could not find a post telling me where they are located).
We encountered this piece of "fun" when a tire blew in a road trip. It took us, 4 other people and two State Troopers (we got stuck on a freeway where it says No Stopping) over an HOUR to find this. Used vehicle, no manual.
So - behind the front seats, move the 2nd row of seats back, roll up the carpeting. Under there is a small depression with a lugnut. The wheel spanner fits this and you crack the spare down ... check for progress and obstructions while you lower the wheel.
there is no fuel return line on any sienna. the pressure is regulated at the pump and any excess fuel is dumped into the tank directly.
"And I think the woman playing the mom (Rachael Drummond, who also is in that funny Walmart clown commercial and a recent Progressive ad) works well in this setting as a mom, with a nice sense of timing and delivery of some funny lines."
---> This is what I could find... I'm almost certain it IS NOT Maureen McCormick... that's what fueled the search for this answer in the first place : )
i just had the northridge Toyota resurface the rotors and changed the brake pads of my 05 sienna for 199+ tax... they are having some kind of brake special going on.
If you are referring to the "handy-when-it-works" feature that automatically closes the door the rest of the way when you don't quite slide it hard enough to shut properly the first time and is part of the auto-locking process.....
There is a bank of ~3 contact points on the forward door post and complementary contacts on the sliding door - they contact when door is almost closed. Depending on whether all or some contacts are made, the 'controller'/relay/whatever knows to energize the motor that closes the door the rest of the way, and which completes the contact on all 3 points, and stops the motor. Mine went on the blink and wouldn't stop trying to lock/shut the door. Sometimes passengers would get locked in! (Hooray for the enormous 3'x4' sunfroof!) A quick fix is to put a small piece of duck tape over the contacts (I think it only needs to be the middle one, but if that doesn't work try all of them and see if that does it). However, I was replacing a the door handle months later, and while I had the inner door panel off, I noticed that there were 2 wires whose plastic connectors looked like they wanted to be together... and voila! Fixed for good. I hope that helps!
Your right about close quarters when working on the engine. Just about any work on the rear of the engine requires a little thought on just how to get the wrench or socket on the bolt, then just how to turn that wrench or ratchet.
The two bolts you are refering to are the only ones holding the top half to the bottom half of the housing and like you say, the rear one is difficult to loosen. The left side is held down with the use of tabs on the upper half that go into slots on the lower half. The bolts are captive, so they stay with the upper housing. A large diameter hose clamp on the large hose needs to be loosened, and there are a few small diameter hoses to be removed.
Once these are all loose, the top half will come all the way out with a little wrestling. remember to vacuum out the bugs, etc. out of the lower half.
Toyota has issued a technical service bulletin for seat heater replacement. It seems that this is not an uncommon problem. The seat heater has been redesigned. You can find the bulletin here: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/jarrid191/2008-10-20_123630_T-EL002-06.pdf
or search on "toyota sienna seat heater problem"