US Banknotes

Serial numbers are counters and a security feature but rarely affect a bill's value.

Please post a new, separate question with the bill's date and what letter if any is next to the date.

Some collectors will pay extra for numbers with a special pattern, e.g. 12345678, or low numbers such as 00000015.

Redemption of silver certificates for silver metal was discontinued in the 1960s when the price of silver was deregulated.

The bills can still be spent for $1 each but are usually worth a bit more to a collector. The most common ones, dated 1957, are only worth around $1.50 to $2.00 retail, though.

Please note there's no such thing as "copper clad silver". All US clad coins are made with copper centers clad in cupronickel alloy (dimes, quarters, and halves) or manganese brass (dollars). Also the only opposite to "real silver" would be "fake silver"!

30$ to 50$ , but at actions, could go as high as 100$

Please check your bill again. "H" is the highest series letter for 1935 $1 silver certificates.

The series letter on a US bill is not part of the serial number. It's always next to or below the date. Series 1935 $1 silver certificates may not have a letter, or there could be anything from A to H.

It would be just a little over a thousand dollars

The picture is just a sticker that was pasted on the bill after it was printed. The US doesn't print bills with pictures of Santa, the Easter Bunny, Elvis, George Bush, or any other non-traditional image.

If the sticker damaged the bill it's now only worth face value; if it's not damaged it may be worth a bit more but 1981 is too new for an uncirculated bill to carry a significant premium.

U. S. paper money with a red seal (regardless of denomination) are United States Notes (see the link to an encyclopedia article). Bills now being printed are all Federal Reserve Notes with green seals, and some older bills are Silver Certificates with blue.

The letter after the serial number is called the "suffix letter" and is simply used to provide more unique combinations of characters.

Numbering normally starts with 00000001A. The numeric part is incremented until it reaches 999999999A, then it's reset to 00000001 and the suffix is increased to "B". Because there are 99,999,999 possible unique numbers and 26 unique letters, it's possible to have nearly 2.6 billion unique numbers for each Federal Reserve District's bills!

Note: 00000000 is reserved for "specimen" or test notes, so it never appears on circulating bills.

You don't want to "cash in" a silver certificate; that means to take it to a bank and you'll only get face value for it.

Unfortunately its value as a collectible isn't much more, perhaps $2-$3 at retail. That means you might be able to sell it on eBay or to a dealer for $1.25 to $1.75 which wouldn't even pay for postage or gas. You could always keep the bill as a conversation piece and memento of a time long gone.

its worth 8 to 10 dollars if its uncirculated its worth 20 dollars

You should have your bill inspected by an expert in error currency to get a specific value. It can potentially be worth $300 to $500.

The mistake is called a flipover error and happens when a sheet of bills is accidentally put in the printing press upside down during the step that prints the seals.

Its layout is essentially the same as all bills printed from 1928 to the late 1980s. Franklin's picture is much smaller than on modern notes, it's in the center of the bill and surrounded by an oval frame. Both sides have very ornate scrollwork around the borders. Finally, the bill's colors are limited to green and black on a white background. It doesn't have any modern anti-counterfeiting features such as a security strip or watermark.

Of course you can always use any search engine to look for "images of 1985 hundred dollar bills" or some similar phrase to find actual photos.

In circulated condition, a 1976 US $2 bill is only worth face value.

The other bill, though, must have a different date because there are no 1958 US banknotes of any denomination. Please check its date again and look for the question "What is the value of a [date] US 2 dollar bill?" for values.

No you Ding-dong!

I don't Know, try google

100 dollars

Assuming you have a 1934 or 1953, it's worth about $8 in circulated condition. A nice crisp uncirculated one is worth about $15.

Normally a bank is allowed to replace a torn bill only if at least 2/3 of it is intact, including at least one entire serial number. That's to prevent people from cutting bills in half and redeeming both at full value.

Bills with other kinds of damage can be replaced but only by the Treasury after an evaluation of the damage. Example damages would include fire, water, insects, mildew, rodents, etc.

6.14 inches long

The $2 denomination was introduced during the Civil War, partly as a way to fill the gap between the $1 and $5 denominations. Till 1890 they were all printed as United States Notes, a form of currency issued by the federal government rather than by a bank. In addition all US Notes were so-called "fiat" bills because they were only backed by faith in the soundness of the government rather than a specific amount of silver or gold on deposit with the Treasury. Except for some bills dated 1880, all of them had red seals.

From 1890 to 1917 $2 bills were issued in several forms including Treasury Notes and silver certificates. Colors weren't standardized so it's possible to find various combinations of red, blue, and brown seals and serial number, sometimes on the same bill.

In 1928 the government started replacing all circulating bills with smaller notes of the current size (66 X 166 mm). At the same time seal colors were standardized with red representing US Notes, green for Federal Reserve Notes, blue for silver certificates, and gold for gold certificates. At that time it was decided to continue issuing $1 bills as silver certificates and $2 bills as US Notes, while other denominations were issued in more than one form depending on legal and financial requirements. In fact, $5 bills were issued in all 3 forms.

The denomination remained in regular but low use through the 1960s. Other denominations were gradually all converted to Federal Reserve Notes so $2 bills with their red seals tended to stand out and were often hoarded by people who assumed (incorrectly) that they were rare. In addition various urban legends about $2 bills continued to spread which resulted in even lower use.

By 1963 all other denominations had been fully converted to FRN's. US Notes served exactly the same purpose so the Treasury decided to phase them out by the end of the decade as a matter of cost reduction. The last $2 US Notes were printed in the 1963A series.

Legal requirements for production of US Notes were still in effect, though, so the Treasury printed one final series of US Notes in 1966. These were issued as $100 bills to minimize the number that had to be printed for a given amount of money in circulation.

Usage of $2 bills dropped to the point where the Treasury considered discontinuing them. Instead, the denomination was revived in 1976 for the Bicentennial. The new bills were familiar green-seal FRNs and had a new design featuring Trumbull's painting of the signing of the Declaration of Independence.

The bills were quite popular and the Treasury hoped they'd continue to circulate, partly because it was cheaper to print one $2 bill than two $1 bills. Unfortunately nearly all of them disappeared as keepsakes from the Bicentennial.

Enough interest remained, though, that there was a slight uptick in demand and new series have been printed every few years since 2003.

US bills issued before 1990 didn't have a lot of anti-counterfeiting features. They don't have a watermark, a security strip, color-shifting ink, etc. so you have to go by appearance and feel.

First, the paper will have tiny blue and red threads embedded in it. These should be visible under a strong light.

Second, the paper will have the same firm feel to it that more modern bills have.

Third, the denticles (teeth) around the seal on the front will be sharp and evenly spaced.

Fourth, the engraving lines of Ben Franklin's portrait will be sharp, and his image will appear to have depth, almost like a photo.

Fifth, most anti-counterfeiting pens will work on older bills. Their "ink" will change color on a fake.

You have a novelty item that sells for a couple of bucks in gift shops and dollar stores. After all, in 1923 a billion dollars was a large chunk of the country's entire GDP so it wouldn't have made any reasonable sense to print bills in that denomination.

In fact the US never issued any circulation bills higher than $10,000. The largest US bills ever printed were the series 1934 $100,000 notes that were only used for intra-government transactions.

Enormous numbers of $2 bills were printed in 1976 for the Bicentennial celebration, so it's not unusual to find them with consecutive serial numbers. If they're from change, they have no extra value. Uncirculated ones might bring $3 to $4.