Usually they are made of fiber glass, but they can be made of other materials (wood, steel, carbon fiber, etc) as well.
I paint boats for a living, and for me, nothing beats AWLGRIP 2000 topcoat over AWLGRIP 545 epoxy undercoat. It's a bit expensive, but long lasting, great to apply, and can be easily repaired and polished.
Airboaters have a very unique problem. They need their boats to go fast and easy on water, marsh plants, roots, and dry land. That means their airboat hull needs to be both very slick in water, but also very slick and durable on land. Asking a boat hull to endure the punishment of scraping along sandy beaches, endless sawgrass marshes, and grass fields and THEN slip efficiently through the water, day after day, weekend after weekend, is asking a lot. If you're not running' with polymer on your airboat, chances are you've got some sort of friction-reducing slick bottom paint on your hull. I am going to describe how these slippery coatings work, as well as how best to utilize them.
There are a variety of liquid hull coatings on the market. Ideally the best liquid hull coating would be one that is tough, slick, and long lasting. I talked to Glenn Fichter of Southern Enterprises, one of the premiere custom airboat builders working today, and asked him "What properties would the ideal liquid hull coating need to have for you and your customers?" His answer was simply "Needs to be slick, and adhere well to the bottom." Let's focus on adhesion first.
Two-part epoxy systems are known for their toughness, due to a high cross-linked density and excellent adhesion to a variety of substrates. As a result, the best liquid hull coatings are based on a two part epoxy system. The high cross-linked density factor makes the coating itself resistant to scrapes, gouges, and abrasion, while the adhesion factor prevents the coating from coming off, or "delaminating", from the substrate to which it is applied.
Most of the epoxy systems used in airboating use either a primer followed by a friction-reducing topcoat, or skip the primer layer altogether and just build up multiple layers of friction-reducing topcoat. The advantage to putting down a primer layer first, before the topcoat layer, is that the primer is designed to grip the substrate tenaciously while providing the optimum surface for a topcoat to be applied. If the primer layer is allowed to cure properly, before the addition of the topcoat, the primer layer will provide an added layer of durability and protection to the overall coating system.
One of the most crucial elements to getting a hard, durable coating is allowing each layer of coating to properly cure. Notice I said cure, not dry. Dry means you can touch it with your finger, and then pull your finger away and there will be no coating on it. Cure means drying for enough time to allow the exothermic, or "heat producing" chemical reaction to take place, as well as allowing all the liquid components within the epoxy to evaporate. Only when that chemical reaction is finished, and the liquid component is driven off, can the coating be considered fully cured. Many manufacturers state that there is a window of time when the first primer layer is still "tacky" when you can add a topcoat. This may be true, but in most cases you are sacrificing a potentially long functional coating life for a quicker turnaround. Remember, the ideal liquid hull coating is one that is slippery, durable, and long-lasting. I know you want to get your boat back on the water where it belongs, but if you allow each layer of coating to fully cure, you will have better adhesion, and a stronger and more durable coating.
Now for the fun stuff the fast and slippery topcoat that allows airboats to go faster, use less fuel and slip over hard surfaces and water plants. Silicone has great lubricating and slip-producing properties. Silicone-based friction reducing coatings come in two distinct styles, "migratory" and "non-migratory". In the more common migratory silicone epoxies, the silicone exists only in a thin layer on the surface of the coating. In other words, during the curing phase, the silicone migrates or "blooms" to the surface of the coating, where it lays on the surface of the coating, exposing its slippery properties to reduce friction. It works for a short time, until the silicone is all gone. Once the silicone is gone, so is the slippery nature of the coating. The loss of the silicone layer also compromises the cross-linked density, which drastically reduces the durability of the coating. Therefore, with a migratory silicone coating, the more you use your boat, the faster your coating disappears.
On the other hand, in a non-migratory silicone epoxy, the silicone molecules do not just sit on the surface of the epoxy. Rather, the slippery silicone molecules are embedded equally throughout the matrix of coating. The non-migratory silicone is much less common, probably because the chemistry is more advanced and is difficult to produce. That is unfortunate because non-migratory silicone is much more effective. Even if the coating gets scratched or abraded, its slippery properties do not diminish because the silicone exists equally throughout the entire thickness of the coating. As long as there is coating on the hull, you still have a slippery surface working for you.
In talking with airboaters, it seems that a general lack of durability is the major complaint with liquid hull coatings. Freshly applied coatings are super-slick at first, but then quickly lose their slippery properties with use. In general, to avoid poor performance, apply a high quality primer that has been enhanced with silicone, allow it to fully cure, and then apply a high quality topcoat that has non-migratory silicone embedded throughout the matrix of the epoxy. If you're not sure, just call your liquid hull coating manufacturer and get the facts.
When properly applied, liquid hull coatings help prevent corrosion, offer abrasion resistance, and greatly decrease the amount of friction in both water and on land. Friction reduction greatly improves the speed, fuel efficiency, and functional life of your airboat. Dollar for dollar, a high quality hull coating is the least expensive way to improve the overall performance of your airboat.
I recommend the GatorGlide. It is the easiest to apply and reapply. I've run different slick bottoms and been around them all and I found the GatorGlide to be the best.
By light oil and chalk
here is the Kansas guide. To find yours for your state, search
Your state, online boater safety.
they are all pretty general in info, and you will need to search your state if you are looking to get your boaters license.
Here is the Kansas website, which is a very good website. you can go through and get all the info. Just copy and paste it into your URL
A catamaran (or just a 'cat') has two hulls on both sailboats and power boats
A trimaran has more than two.
I have re upholstered a few boat seats and will offer what wisdom I have gleened. If we are talking about single fold down seats, it's probably not worth the effort. By the time you buy your material and replace the usually rotten wood, you could have replaced them with new. Now if we are talking about a more expensive seating, or perhaps some that are no longer available, here are some thoughts. Spend a little extra to buy good material that will stand up longer against UV rays. You will be glad you did two years later. If you want them to last, I use marine grade or treated plywood for all base and framework. Lastly, make sure to use stainless steel staples to hold everything together.
It depends on boat size, motors, and equiptment. It will cost alot less if you keep it covered and dry when not in use. As far as any out board motor goes, when you come in unhook the fuel line. Then start the motor and let it run it's self dry. This prevents "gunk" build up.
Regestration, tags, insurance, and launch permits might be around $200.00 per season. State regs. differ though.
Don't forget gas prices!lol Honestly you could spend $200-$2000 a yr.
Depends on how serious you are.
Up to ten billion US dollars
The hull ID number on a boat is locatedin the upper right hand corner of the transom. It will be stamped on an affixed plate, or scribed into the hull itself.
For a quick temporary fix, wire brush leak inside and outside and apply waterproof silicone sealer. (both sides...let dry)
first remove all equip from boat, flip it upside down onto saw horses, check for loose rivits, ,[first purchase some alum brazing rods,] can be found at harbor freight, you will need a steel or copper wire brush, and a MAP gas torch, locate where the leak might be comming from, wire brush the area good, heat the area with torch, when the alum brazing rod starts to melt when [scratched] on the area put a thin layer on it then wire brush it while heating it, then fill in the area.or follow directions on rod usage.
Archimedes' principle, principle that states that a body immersed in a fluid is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the displaced fluid. The principle applies to both floating and submerged bodies and to all fluids, i.e., liquids and gases. It explains not only the buoyancy of ships and other vessels in water but also the rise of a balloon in the air and the apparent loss of weight of objects underwater. In determining whether a given body will float in a given fluid, both weight and volume must be considered; that is, the relative density, or weight per unit of volume, of the body compared to the fluid determines the buoyant force. If the body is less dense than the fluid, it will float or, in the case of a balloon, it will rise. If the body is denser than the fluid, it will sink. Relative density also determines the proportion of a floating body that will be submerged in a fluid. If the body is two thirds as dense as the fluid, then two thirds of its volume will be submerged, displacing in the process a volume of fluid whose weight is equal to the entire weight of the body. In the case of a submerged body, the apparent weight of the body is equal to its weight in air less the weight of an equal volume of fluid. The fluid most often encountered in applications of Archimedes' principle is water, and the specific gravity of a substance is a convenient measure of its relative density compared to water. In calculating the buoyant force on a body, however, one must also take into account the shape and position of the body. A steel rowboat placed on end into the water will sink because the density of steel is much greater than that of water. However, in its normal, keel-down position, the effective volume of the boat includes all the air inside it, so that its average density is then less than that of water, and as a result it will float.
I have a 1980's Eldocraft aluminum boat and the hull# is engraved on the starboard side of the transom. It was a little difficult to make out due to he shallow dept of each digit. Unless someone has painted or made some repairs, in that case you will have to have a new hull # issued by the state you register it in.
The white powdery spots are not rust - but rather oxidization. Eventually the spots will enlarge and cover the entire surface of the exposed aluminum. However unsightly- this oxidized layer offers a protective barrier against corrosion.
At the front of the boat they have a very thin bit which is easy to cut through the water. They stay up and don't sink because, at the bottom of the boat there is a big fat bottom which makes the water have enough room to hold the boat up and make sure it doesn't sink.
Harland and Wolff shipyards, Belfast, Ireland.
The best paint for an aluminum hull boat is one that adheres tenaciously to the aluminum, while providing friction reduction for increased speed and lower fuel consumption. I encourage boat owners to apply a primer coat for increased durability and for a strong chemical bond with the aluminum substrate. A friction reducing, low drag, hydrophobic topcoat is ideal for most aluminum hulled boats.
In my experience, the best primer and topcoat for aluminum hulled boats are manufactured by Wearlon, a company out of NY. Easy to apply and touch up, with low VOC and a water based formulation so there are no worries about cuprous oxide and the EPA. Your marina will get off your back while applying these products, because there is no risk of water quality issues. Wearlon products can be found at the link below.
how i can know about lamp wiring...
type of Volvo 1984 injection modul
Try using CLR, but don't leave it on the gelcoat for too long as it will dull the surface. Otherwise, cut it back with 1200 grit wet & dry and buff it with compound. After cleaning and removing the rust ... use Zirlon clear top coat .. it will stop the rust and put the gloss back onto the gelcoat. It is an all green product that will last 3 to 5 yrs.
probably not because of the way the valves are in the pump but it would be funny if that happened
Also called draft, this being the preferred usage. the amount of water drawn by a boat, that is, in layman"s terms how far down in the water is the hull submerged- ships have a water line and a Plimsoll line to facilitate this measurement, as there are seasonal variations on buoyancy- and legal limits- such as WNA winter North Atlantic. as a ship is loaded- or laden, naturally the vessel rides lower in the water owing to the increased draft. the opposite number- is any ship looks bigger in drydock!
Engine. Oars. Sails. Towrope
The last two digits in the hull ID number are usually the year of manufacture. The ID number is usually stamped into the starboard side of the transom, near the top.
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