This really worked the other day!
Put a wood wedge between the hood & grille piece to make a small opening to get at the latch mechanism (use wood to not mar the paint). Using a 13MM socket, 3/8 drive universal on an 8" min. length extension, put the socket thru the wedged opening to the (2) bolts that hold the mechanism. Remove the bolts, release the second safety under hood latch & the hood will open. Release the cable (from under the hood release) & you're ready to re-assemble. If the cable is completely broken, replace or put a "pull piece" from the release clip thru to outside of the grill...as a make-shift if need be. If not broken, read on...
Insure the under dash pull mechanism end piece, is still thru the clip on the release mechanism. Insure the main latching mechanism & the second safety under hood latch are well lubricated with a thick oil (more than "3-in-1" oil). Re-bolt the latching mechanism with the height adjustment based on the circular washer marks, made by the original indentations of the under bolt head washers & tighten. Now this is the important part…adjust up, the black plastic circular hood closing stops, (one to the far right & left of center) at least 1 ½ to 2 revolutions. This puts "lifting" pressure on the hood to "pop" from the latch when the under dash handle is pulled. And Walla, it's done!
Use a set of pliers to pull the cable even if the plastic latch is broken...
Stick a long screwdriver between the hood and the the small trim piece in the front middle of vehicle and try to locate the small latch that the cable would pull if it was there. It will take some force but push it to the right when facing the front of the vehicle. After this disengages then you should be able to open your hood with the finger latch. A flashlight helps.
If you mean the cable that goes to your latch and its snapped or something easiest way to do it is basicly grab a hold of the cable and pull on it and of latch would.
hold out on handle another person tap on frt. of the hood
This depends on where it snapped, but usally it breaks inside the car, where it connects to the latch release, anyway you have to fish for the cable itself thru your grille, use a wire hanger bent back at the end about a 1/2", hook the cable closest to the latch itself, attach the hanger to the wire, not the sheath, and pull
what adjustment cable if you are talking about clutch adjustment if it is hydraulic there is no adjustment for it per the Chevy dealer i brought my 1992 s 10 to
Front center of radiator support.
i have a Chevy s-10 1990 and the hood wont release, and the latch is broke. what should i do
diagram for replacing cable to door handle latch 1992 for econoline van
It depends which cable is broken. If the main cable is broken under the truck, the brakes should release on their own. If the brakes dont release, the cables are frozen from rust and need to be replaced. If the release cable from the handle to pedal assemdly is broken reach under the dash above the pedal and find the small release arm. Pull the arm toward you [ the rear of vehicle ] and the emergency brake pedal will release.
It may have broken motor mounts.
That's a double negative. I would suggest that the cable has broken. all 1992 and newer dnt have a cable it is ran electronicly