Gibraltar (IPA: /dʒɨˈbrɒltər/) is a
British overseas territory located near the southernmost tip of the
Iberian Peninsula overlooking the Strait of
Gibraltar. The territory shares a border with Spain to the north. Gibraltar has
historically been an important base for the British Armed Forces and is the site of
a Royal Navy base.
The name of the territory is derived from the Arabic name Jabal Tāriq (جبل
طارق), meaning "mountain of Tariq", or from Gibel Tāriq, meaning "rock of Tariq". [1] It refers to the geological formation, the Rock of Gibraltar, and the Berber Umayyad general Tariq ibn-Ziyad, who led the initial incursion
into Iberia in advance of the main Moorish force in 711. Earlier, it was
known as Mons Calpe, one of the Pillars of Hercules. Today, Gibraltar is
known colloquially as Gib or The Rock.
The sovereignty of Gibraltar is a major issue of contention in
Anglo-Spanish relations. Spain requests the
return of sovereignty, ceded by Spain in perpetuity in 1713 under the Treaty of
Utrecht. The overwhelming majority of Gibraltarians strongly oppose this, along with
any proposal of shared sovereignty[2][3].
History
-
- See also: Military
history of Gibraltar during World War II, History of the Jews in
Gibraltar, and History of the Maltese in
Gibraltar
There is evidence of human habitation in Gibraltar going as far back as Neanderthal man,
an extinct species of the Homo genus. The first historical people known to have settled
there were the Phoenicians around 950 BC. Semi-permanent settlements were later established by
the Carthaginians and Romans. After the collapse of the
Roman Empire, Gibraltar came briefly under the control of the Vandals, and would later form part
of the Visigothic Kingdom of Hispania until its collapse due to the Muslim conquest in 711 AD. At that time, Gibraltar was named as one of the Pillars of Hercules, after the legend of the creation of the Straits of Gibraltar.
On April 30, 711, the Umayyad
general Tariq ibn Ziyad led a Berber-dominated army across the Strait from
Ceuta. He first attempted to land at Algeciras but failed.
Subsequently, he landed undetected at the southern point of the Rock from present-day Morocco in
his quest for Spain. Little was built during the first four centuries of Moorish control.
The first permanent settlement was built by the Almohad Sultan Abd al-Mu'min, who ordered the construction of a fortification on the Rock, the remains of which are still
present. Gibraltar would later become part of the Kingdom of Granada until 1309, when it would be briefly occupied by Castilian
troops. In 1333, it was conquered by the Marinids who had invaded Muslim Spain. The
Marinids ceded Gibraltar to the Kingdom of Granada in 1374. Finally, it was reconquered definitively by the Duke of Medina Sidonia in
1462, ending 750 years of Moorish control.
In the initial years under Medina Sidonia, Gibraltar was granted sovereignty as a home to a population of exiled
Sephardic Jews. Pedro de Herrera,
a Jewish converso from Córdoba who had led the conquest
of Gibraltar, led a group of 4,350 Jews from Córdoba and Seville to establish themselves in the
town. A community was built and a garrison established to defend the peninsula. However, this lasted only three years. In 1476,
the Duke of Medina Sidonia realigned with the Spanish Crown; the Sefardim were then forced
back to Córdoba and the Spanish Inquisition. In 1501 Gibraltar passed under the hands of the
Spanish Crown, which had been established in 1479. Gibraltar was granted its coat of
arms by a Royal Warrant passed in Toledo by
Isabella of Castile in 1501.
The naval Battle of Gibraltar took place on April
25, 1607 during the Eighty Years' War when a Dutch
fleet surprised and engaged a Spanish fleet anchored at the Bay of Gibraltar. During the four-hour action, the entire Spanish
fleet was destroyed.
During the War of the Spanish Succession, British and Dutch troops,
allies of Archduke Charles, the Austrian pretender to the Spanish Crown,
formed a confederate fleet and attacked various towns on the southern coast of Spain. On 4
August 1704, after six hours of bombardment starting at 5 a.m., the confederate fleet,
commanded by Admiral Sir George Rooke assisted by Field Marshal Prince George of Hesse-Darmstadt comprising some 1800 Dutch and British marines
captured the town of Gibraltar and claimed it in the name of the Archduke Charles. Terms of surrender [4] were agreed upon, after which much of the population chose to leave Gibraltar
peacefully.
Franco-Spanish troops failed to retake the town, and British sovereignty over Gibraltar was subsequently recognised by the
1713 Treaty of Utrecht, which ended the war. In this treaty, Spain ceded Gibraltar
(Article X) and Minorca (article XI) to the United Kingdom in perpetuity. Great Britain has
since retained sovereignty over the former ever since, despite all attempts by Spain to recapture it.
Due to military incursions by Spain various fortifications were established and occupied by British troops in the area which
came to be known as "the British Neutral Ground." This was the area to the north of Gibraltar, militarily conquered and
continuously occupied by the British except during time of war. (The sovereignty of this area, which today contains the airport,
cemetery, a number of housing estates and the sports centre, is separately disputed by Spain.)
During the American Revolutionary War, the Spanish, who had entered the
conflict against the British, imposed a stringent blockade against Gibraltar as part of an unsuccessful siege (the
Great Siege of Gibraltar) that lasted for more than three years, from 1779 to
1783. On 14 September 1782, the British destroyed the
floating batteries of the French and Spanish besiegers, and in February 1783 the signing of peace preliminaries ended the
siege.[5]
Gibraltar subsequently became an important naval base for the Royal Navy and played an
important part in the Battle of Trafalgar. Its strategic value increased with the
opening of the Suez Canal, as it controlled the important sea route between the UK and
colonies such as India and Australia. During
World War II, the civilian residents of Gibraltar were evacuated, and the Rock was turned
into a fortress. An airfield was built over the civilian racecourse. Guns on Gibraltar
controlled the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea, but plans by Nazi Germany to capture the Rock, codenamed Operation Felix, were
frustrated by Spain's reluctance to allow the German Army onto Spanish soil. Germany's Admiral
Wilhelm Canaris, head of the Abwehr, also helped by
filing a pointedly negative assessment of the options. Canaris was a leader of the German high command resistance to Hitler, and
it is thought that he frustrated the attack to limit Germany's aggression.[citation needed].
In the 1950s, Spain, then under the dictatorship of Francisco Franco, renewed its claim to sovereignty over Gibraltar, sparked in part by the visit of
Queen Elizabeth II in 1954 to celebrate the 250th anniversary of the
Rock's capture. For the next thirty years, Spain restricted movement between Gibraltar and Spain, in application of one of the
articles of the Treaty. A referendum was held on September 10, 1967, in which Gibraltar's voters were asked whether they wished to either pass under Spanish sovereignty, or
remain under British sovereignty, with institutions of self-government. The vote was overwhelmingly in favour of continuance of
British sovereignty, with 12,138 to 44 voting to reject Spanish sovereignty. This led to the granting of autonomous status in May
1969 , which the Government of Spain strongly opposed. In response, the following month Spain
completely closed the border with Gibraltar and severed all communication links.[6]
View of the frontier from the Spanish side.
The border with Spain was partially reopened in 1982, and fully reopened in 1985 prior to Spain's accession into the
European Community. Joint talks on the future of the Rock held between Spain and the
United Kingdom have occurred since the late 1980s, with various proposals for joint sovereignty
discussed. However, another referendum organised in Gibraltar rejected the idea of joint sovereignty by 17,900 (98.97%) votes to
187 (1.03%). The British Government restated that, in accordance with the preamble of the constitution of Gibraltar, the "UK will
never enter into arrangements under which the people of Gibraltar would pass under the sovereignty of another state against their
freely and democratically expressed wishes." The question of Gibraltar continues to affect Anglo-Spanish relations.
In 1981 it was announced that the honeymoon for the royal wedding between prince Charles and Diana Spencer would start from
Gibraltar. The Spanish Government responded that King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia had declined their invitation to the ceremony
as an act of protest.[7]
In 1988, SAS troops shot and killed three members of the IRA who were planning an attack on the British Army band. The ensuing "Death on the Rock" controversy prompted a major political row in the UK.
2006 saw representatives of the United Kingdom, Gibraltar and Spain conclude talks in Córdoba, Spain, a landmark agreement on a range of
cross-cutting issues affecting the Rock and the Campo de Gibraltar removing
many of the restrictions imposed by Spain.[8] This agreement resolved a number of long standing issues; improved flow of traffic at the frontier,
use of the airport by other carriers, recognition of the 350 telephone code and the settlement of the long-running dispute
regarding the pensions of former Spanish workers in Gibraltar, who lost their jobs when Spain closed its border in 1969.
Politics
-
As Gibraltar is an overseas territory of the UK, the head of state is Queen Elizabeth II, who is represented by the Governor of Gibraltar. The UK retains responsibility for defence, foreign relations, internal security, and
financial stability. The Governor is not involved in the day-to-day administration of Gibraltar, and his role is largely as a
ceremonial head of state. The Governor officially appoints the Chief Minister and government ministers after an election. He is
responsible for matters of defence, and security. On 17 July 2006,
Sir Francis left on HMS Monmouth leaving the symbolic keys of the fortress of Gibraltar with the Deputy Governor. A new governor,
Lt General Sir Robert Fulton KBE, replaced Sir Francis Richards in September 2006[9].
The Government of Gibraltar is elected for a term of four years. The unicameral
Parliament presently consists of seventeen elected members. The speaker is
appointed by a resolution of the Parliament.
The head of Government is the Chief Minister, currently Peter Caruana. There are three political parties currently represented in the Parliament: the
Gibraltar Social Democrats, the Gibraltar Socialist Labour Party, and the Gibraltar Liberal Party.
New Gibraltar Democracy and the Progressive Democratic Party have been formed since the 2003 election. The
Reform Party and Gibraltar Labour
Party, having failed to achieve any popular support, ceased operating in 2005.
Gibraltar is a part of the European Union, having joined under the British Treaty of
Accession (1973), with exemption from some areas such as the Customs Union and
Common Agricultural Policy.
After a ten-year campaign[10] to exercise the right to
vote in European Elections, from 2004, the people of Gibraltar participated in elections for the European Parliament as part of the South West England constituency[11].
As a result of the continued Spanish claim, the issue of sovereignty features strongly in
Gibraltar politics. All local political parties are opposed to any transfer of sovereignty to Spain. They instead support
self-determination for the Rock. This policy is supported by the main UK opposition
parties.
In March 2006, UK Foreign Secretary
Jack Straw announced that a new Gibraltar constitution had been agreed upon and would be
published prior to a referendum on its acceptance in Gibraltar that year[12]. In July, in a statement to the UK Parliament, Geoff Hoon, the
Minister for Europe, confirmed that the new Constitution confirms the right of self-determination of the Gibraltarian
people.[13]
On 30 November 2006, a referendum was held for a new constitution. The turnout was 60.4% of eligible voters of which 60.24% voted to
approve the constitution and 37.75% against. The remainder returned blank votes. The acceptance was welcomed by the Chief
Minister, Peter Caruana, as a step forward for Gibraltar's political development.
Geography
- See also: Rock of Gibraltar
The Rock of Gibraltar, West Side town area, 2006.
The territory covers 2.53 square miles (6.543 km²). It shares a three-quarter mile
(1.2 km) land border with Spain. On the Spanish side is the
town La Línea de la Concepción, a municipality of Cádiz province. The part of
Cádiz province next to Gibraltar is called Campo de Gibraltar, literally Gibraltar
Countryside. The shoreline measures 7½ miles (12 km) in length. There are two coasts (sides) of Gibraltar –
the East Side, which contains the settlements of Sandy
Bay and Catalan Bay, and the West Side, where
the vast majority of the population lives.
Satellite view of the Bay of Gibraltar (
NASA).
Having negligible natural resources and few natural freshwater resources, limited to natural wells in the north, until
recently Gibraltar used large concrete or natural rock water catchments to collect water. Fresh water from the boreholes is
supplemented by two desalination plants: a reverse
osmosis plant, constructed in a tunnel within the rock, and a multi-stage
flash distillation plant at North Mole. [14]
Gibraltar is one of the most densely populated territories in the world, with approximately 11,187 people per square mile
(4,303/km²). The growing demand for space is being increasingly met by land
reclamation; reclaimed land currently comprises approximately one tenth of the territory's total area.
The Rock itself is made of limestone and is 1,396 feet (426 m) high. It contains many
miles of tunnelled roads, most of which are operated by the military and closed to the public.
Flora and fauna
Most of its upper area is covered by a nature reserve, which is home to around 230
Barbary Macaques, commonly known as 'apes', the only wild monkeys found in Europe. They sometimes visit the town area. Recent genetic studies and historical documents
point to their presence on the Rock before its capture by the British. A superstition analogous to that of the ravens at the Tower of London states that if the monkeys
ever leave, so will the British.
Climate
The climate is Mediterranean with mild winters and warm summers. There are two
main prevailing winds, an easterly one known as the Levante coming from the
Sahara in Africa which brings humid weather and warmer sea and the other as Poniente which is westerly and brings fresher
air in and colder sea. Its terrain consists of the 1,396 foot
(426 m) high Rock of Gibraltar and the narrow
coastal lowland surrounding it.
| Month |
Year |
Jan |
Feb |
Mar |
Apr |
May |
Jun |
Jul |
Aug |
Sep |
Oct |
Nov |
Dec |
| Avg high °C (°F) |
21 (70) |
16 (61) |
16 (62) |
17 (64) |
18 (66) |
21 (71) |
24 (76) |
27 (81) |
27 (82) |
26 (79) |
21 (71) |
18 (66) |
16 (62) |
| Avg low temperature °C (°F) |
15 (60) |
11 (52) |
11 (52) |
12 (54) |
13 (56) |
15 (60) |
17 (64) |
20 (68) |
20 (69) |
20 (68) |
16 (62) |
13 (57) |
12 (54) |
| Source: Weatherbase |
Subdivisions
Gibraltar has no administrative divisions. It is, however, divided into seven Major Residential Areas, which are further
divided into Enumeration Areas, used for statistical purposes [1]. The Major Residential Areas are listed below, with population figures from the Census of 2001:
|
Residential area |
Population |
% of total |
| 1. |
East Side |
429 |
1.54% |
| 2. |
North District |
4,116 |
14.97% |
| 3. |
Reclamation Areas |
9,599 |
34.91% |
| 4. |
Sandpits Area |
2,207 |
8.03% |
| 5. |
South District |
4,257 |
15.48% |
| 6. |
Town Area |
3,588 |
13.05% |
| 7. |
Upper Town |
2,805 |
10.20% |
|
Remainder |
494 |
1.82% |
|
Gibraltar |
27,495 |
100% |
Economy
-
The British military traditionally dominated the economy of Gibraltar, with the naval dockyard providing the bulk of economic
activity. This has however diminished in the last twenty years, and it is estimated to account for only 7% of the local economy,
compared to over 60% in 1984. Today, Gibraltar has an extensive service-based economy, dominated by financial services and tourism.
A number of British and international banks have operations based in Gibraltar. Recently, many bookmakers and online gaming
operators have relocated to Gibraltar, to benefit from operating in a regulated jurisdiction with a favourable corporate tax
regime. However, this corporate tax regime for non-resident controlled companies is due to be phased out by 2010.
Tourism is also a significant industry. Gibraltar is a popular stop for cruise ships and attracts day visitors from resorts in
Spain. The Rock is a popular tourist attraction, particularly among British tourists and residents in the southern coast of
Spain. It is also a popular shopping destination, and all goods and services are VAT
free. Many of the large British high street chains have branches in Gibraltar, including Marks and Spencer, BHS, Dorothy
Perkins, and the supermarket Morrisons.
Figures from the CIA World Factbook show the main export markets in 2006 were
United Kingdom 30.8%, Spain 22.7%, Germany 13.7%, Turkmenistan 10.4%, Switzerland 8.3%, Italy 6.7% while the corresponding figures for imports are
Spain 23.4%, Russia 12.3%, Italy
12%, UK 9%, France 8.9%, Netherlands 6.8% and
United States 4.7%[15].
The Gibraltar Government state that economy grew in 2004/2005 by 7% to a GDP of 599.18 million pounds. Based on statistics in
the 2006 surveys, the Government statisticians estimate it has grown by 8.5% in 2005/6 and by 10.8% in 2006/7 and that the GDP is
probably now around 730 million. Inflation was running at 2.6% in 2006 and predicted to be 2% to 3% in 2007. Speaking at the 2007
budget session, Peter Caruana, the Chief Minister said "The scale of Gibraltar's economic success makes it one of the most
affluent communities in the entire world."
Currency
-
The Currency Notes Act confers on the Government of Gibraltar the right to issue its own currency notes, at parity with
pound sterling[16]. The monetary unit of Gibraltar is described both as "pound sterling" [17][18][19]and also referred to as
the "Gibraltar pound"[20][21]. The ISO code "GIP" is assigned to the Gibraltar pound. Government of Gibraltar
notes in circulation bear the words "Pounds sterling".[22] and are legal tender in Gibraltar, but not in the United Kingdom or the other territories of the
Sterling Area. Sterling currency notes issued by the Bank of England are legal tender and are in circulation in Gibraltar alongside the local note issues.
The euro is unofficially accepted in Gibraltar, though not by post offices or all
payphones.[23]
Demographics
-
The population of Gibraltar was 27,967 in July 2007.[24]
Gibraltarians are a racial and cultural fusion of the many European immigrants who came to the Rock over three hundred years.
They are the descendants of economic migrants that came to Gibraltar after the majority of the Spanish population left in 1704.
The few Spaniards who remained in Gibraltar in August 1704 were augmented by others who arrived in the fleet with Prince George
of Hesse, possibly some two hundred in all, mostly Catalans. [25] By 1753 Genoese, Maltese, and
Portuguese people formed the majority of this new population. Other groups include Minorcans
(forced to leave their homes when Minorca was returned to Spain in 1802), Sardinians, Sicilians
and other Italians, French, Germans, and the British. Immigration from Spain and intermarriage with Spaniards from the
surrounding Spanish towns was a constant feature of Gibraltar's history until General Francisco Franco closed the border with
Gibraltar, cutting off many Gibraltarians from their relatives on the Spanish side of the frontier. The Spanish socialist
government reopene