Air in the brake pipes. Old fluid. Worn seals in master cyclinder. Overheated brake pads and discs. If the pads are new they might not be bedded in yet; especialy if the discs are worn or ridged or scaled up.
THERE ARE TWO BOLTS ON EACH SIDE OF THE CALIPER REMOVE THOSE AND PULL THE CALIPER OFF
what problems,need more information
you have to unbolt the caliper off the rotor, but not from the brake fluid line.
Changing the caliper is an extension to the changing the brakes procedure.The 'extension' is to disconnect the brake line/hose from the caliper.Next extra step is to bleed the brakes - since the new caliper is going to be full of air when you first hook it up.See "Related Questions" below for more extensive coverage of the procedures...
take off wheel, then take off caliper by the 2 mounting bolts. do not let caliper hang by brake hose, tie up to spring if possible so your brake hose does not get broke. take off caliper mount, then slide rotor off. when putting back on caliper, push caliper cup in to bore, all the way with a c clamp. put caliper holder back on. then put brake pads in caliper. place caliper over rotor, and tighten down.
remove caliper. may be chrome cap on top bolt you have to remove to get to the 8mill bolt. slide off caliper and press in piston. change pads and reinstall
Because it's sticky.
Need more info. are you replacing the caliper or just changing the fluid?
no you dont have to---BUT its adviseable
If you wanted to find a good place to fix a faulty caliper problem, then you would have to visit Goodyear. They are really good when it comes to mechanical brake problems.
get a large pir of grips and squeeze should go back in.
They need to be wound back in, using a special tool, a G-clamp also work to push it back, with the rotating part on the caliper piston.