This is just a secondary brake line in case something would happen to your primary line. Instead of bleeding the brakes with the bleeder valve, chock the wheels and slightly unscrew the fitting on the brake itself while a friend gently pumps the air out of the brakes. Make sure between each brake you top off your brake fluid.
the bleeder is on the passenger side of the truck. use this to bleed both of the wheel cylinders. i have had to find out the hard way on my 1984 Mazda b-2000
there are bleeders on the wheel cylinders
When they've lost their brakes...
lightly tap your brakes
I used to bleed brakes one wheel at a time. I prefer doing 2 or 4 now at a time and it's pretty easy... You can buy very inexpensively, brake bleeding kits. I used 4 small baby food jars and 4 pieces of 2' long rubber hose that fit the bleeders tight on the back of each wheel. The bleeders are in the calipers. Hope that you can open each one without breaking them. I would recommend using penetrating oil (wd40 or something similar) on each one for about a week to help give you a fighting chance. Fill the baby food jars full of brake fluid and open the bleeders. I would recommend you have someone pumping the brakes for you. Be sure to keep the mastercylinder filled, don't let it go dry. Pump the brakes 2 or 3 times and refill. By doing this your expelling the air by pressing and by letting up, your sucking back brake fluid. Look for air bubbles coming from the hoses in the jars. As the air bubbles stop as the brakes are pumped, close the bleeders. The worst part of this entire job is opening the bleeders for the first time without breaking them. I would recommend using an 8 point boxed end wrench to open them. This will be a small tool and less likely to slip and strip out the bleeder.
Back off the brake adjustment, or back off the e-brake adjustment, or the e-brake cables are stuck. No need to open bleeders.
Its easier to take front tires off . Ther is a bleeder on each of the front hubs and usually one and sometimes two bleeders on rear brake cylinder.
before he needs to stop
No two drivers are the same. It depends on the drivers braking habits.
The drivers side of what? The tires? The brakes? The engine? Please be more specific.
you had better check that out thoroughly, it isn't normal for that to happen. Front and rears should be drum brakes, and theres really no valve to malfunction. My first thought is that the cylinders have overextended and cocked sideways locking the shoes against the drum, this could happen if the shoes were extremely worn out, or the assembly was put together wrong. Second thing to check isn't even the brakes, your front axle may be locked. The next time the front brakes are locked up, open one of the brake bleeders up front. If the pressure releases you have a restriction in the hydraulic system such as a pinched brake line or a collapsed brake hose. If you open the front bleeders and the front brakes are still locked up and they are disc brakes, you may have stuck/frozen brake calipers or stuck caliper slide pins.
put brake fluid in reservoir and loosen the bleeder screws. step on the brake with the motor running and tighten bleeders before releasing brake pedal. repeat as needed
You bleed the rear brakes the same way you bleed the front brakes. If you can't get brake fluid to come out the rear bleeders you may have a faulty master cylinder or the master was allowed to empty out the reservoir that feeds the rear and now it is air bound. Removing the master cylinder and bench bleeding the master may be what you need to do and don't let the reservoir go dry!