I am pretty sure that it is computer controlled. There is probably an input to the computer that is out of whack. There may be a code stored it the computer that may elude to the problem. If an input like a mass air flow sensor or crankshaft sensor is going bad, it will report false data to the ECM and it will make an incorrect adjustment that will flood or starve the fuel/air mixture causing a stall.
easier, try to clean or maybe change the IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE, located near the throttle body, where the air intake is, it's not difficult, it's attached with 2 bolts, then it's like a pintle with one spring, check the spring shape and replace the unit with a new one, this valve controls the air flow to your engine and if it goes bad , the RPMS are likely to be low and also stalling could occur right away when you start the engine or suddenly too
7 degrees idling @ 500rpm (650 for USA)
up to 500rpm so about 200 hp
Check the air supply, make sure the filter is clean and that the intake is clear.
How low is low. If you have the Multiport Fuel injected engine it is normal for it to idle just at 500rpm give or take 50 prm. Anythign lower and you have a problem.
Easy!! Put it on the neutral position. Press the gaz pedal to the end. When it goes cut off note the RPM. It's the RPM cut off minus 500RPM
On most vehicles there is a screw located on the throttle body, it is the idle control. Sometimes it is cover and sometimes not but most times it is recessed. Tightening the screw will cause the idle to drop as it is cutting off the airflow through a secondary passage in the throttle body, loosening the screw will raise the idle allowing for more air to pass. Sometime in warmer or colder weather the airs density can be too high or low for the vehicle to idle properly and this screw must be altered.
Theoretically a 40x could spin up to 20,000 rpm at it's maximum, although this would very rarely happen. 1x CD-ROM drives spin up to 500rpm
Found one DC motor having small sparking,but the commutator is light and dark bar pattern.commutator is round. We 500kw dC motor operted at 500rpm with 480Amp's .The DC motor full load current is 1050Amp's. Why the commutator had small spaerking.
To answer this question you would need to know the geometry of the fly wheel. A 6' flywheel would have a lot more energy than a 3' flywheel. If the weight was distibuted away from the axis and towards the circumference (as it is in most flywheels) this would also increase the stored energy.
Could be timing. Could be a gasket seal. Or in my case, was blowing black carbon in my exhaust, was burning to much gas. Clean the spark plugs or replace them entirely, check you mass air flow sensor, and in my case I need to replace my air intake as well.
If you fluid it to low it could cause it. Check it while the car is warm to get the best reading. ** Already checked the fluid, it's fine. I'm wondering about the torque converter because it seems to only do it at the bottom end of a gear, almost like it's having trouble deciding what gear to be in and the engine RPM's jump back and forth about 250-500rpm while it's doing it.
Unless that is an extremely radical 350 it shouldn't be idling at 1500 rpm in the first place. It should idle around 800 rpm and drop maybe a couple hundred when put in gear. If you are having to idle it at 1500 to keep it running you do have other problems. Could be timing, vacuum leaks, or a poorly adjusted carb. I'd start with those first.
Your motor will idle badly. The revs will not stay at a constant level, even when your engine has reached operating temperature. ***Sum's Answer***- the engine will idle bad, and it wont catch its idle when droping RPM's. It may drop to 500rpm, shoot back up to 1k then slowly figure its way out to 6000-800rpm. Overall, it will idle badly, and not know where its going. It may not be your IAC motor though, I had that problem in my 03' Cavalier and it wasnt the IAC, it needed a computer update.
Ratings mean Max Value. It means you can provide it with a Max Supply Voltage of 12 Volts. And when supply is 12 V, the shaft or anything connected to it will rotate at a speed of 500 RPM. Going for higher voltages will cause insulation breakdown in the motor winding. Practically though, you can use it till around 16 V, presuming such motors are used for minor works i.e robotics mostly. But this will decrease the lifetime of the motor. Going beyond that is destructive for the motor.
My son has an 1989 z24 that was doing the same thing. After changing all the sensors and plugs, plugwires,fuel filter,coils,throttle position sensor i deceided to attempt to change the fuel pressure regulator while releiveing the pressure off the fuel rail i noticed fuel had been leaking around the valve so i took a valve core stem out of an old tire and replaced it started the car up and it seems to be fine now. Try it.
You need a diamond core bit for the size hole you want, fasten the bottle in a drill press securely but carefully, its important you keep the bottle from moving, pick the area you want the hole and build a dam with clay to hold water, once everything is fasten, water in the dam, have the speed of the drill press at around 500rpm, now apply light pressure for 3 to 5 seconds, lift the bit slightly allowing the water to rinse the bit and apply light pressure again for another 3 to 5 seconds, continue these steps until you cut through the bottom. TIP: "DO NOT" get impatience and try to cut faster, you will only wear out or ruin the bit. If you follow these steps your core bit will last you through many-many holes. (I caution you against using a hand drill)
I couldn't figure out how to add more info to this question, so here goes: My 2005 Celica will occasionally idle so low the car shakes a little, tach shows maybe 400-500rpm. It will then seem to realize this and up the idle back to 800-900rpm. Then it will cycle between the two every few seconds. This happens rarely, maybe once every other month. If I put the car in neutral the problem goes away and idles around 800-900rpm. Never had any problems with acceleration or when at driving speeds. My car has an automatic transmission and around 65,000 miles. 50/50 mix of city/highway driving. Castrol GTS 5W30 oil. I can't think of any other pertinent info, let me know if you need more. Thanks, -Farrell
Transmissions are controlled by sliding valve rods...Their movement is either by transmission pressure or electro motors controlled by computers. Dirty fluid, low fluid in trans or gummy build up on these valves can prevent normal shifts including downshifts at stops, required to start smoothly away from the stop. If trans sticks in a higher gear instead of down shifting, it will shudder and shake just as a trying to start in 2nd or 3rd gear in a manual trans. Possibility that there is a locking torque converter that is not releasing though that would be my last possibility. Solution: When it does it, shift into neutral ...if it goes away, go back to D (drive) and see if it reoccurs. if it does, shift thru the gears (P- 2, particularly down to 3 and then 2. Check again. If that does not correct the shudder...May need a trans flush and change of trans fluid, a can of transmission tune-up (cheapest), but next would be to drop the pan and flush the valve body (R & R ?). Possibly, problem may be more related to computer / fuel system problems, but I am basing my answer on a similar problem with our 97. At some point, it makes sense to go to the dealer and hook it to the computer that can read these problems and give a computer diagnosis. Otherwise, you may be starting to inaccurately throw large sums of many at incorrect repairs.
Yes, The best way is to a diamond core bit and a drill press, mount the figurine on the drill press firmly but very carefully, the object is to keep the figurine from moving, so use padding. Once mounted, slowly lower the bit until you touch the part "LIGHTLY", very lightly, apply a lubricant, water is fine, the water will rinse the particles away, continue to apply light pressure with continued drops of water, (TIP: if water has a paste texture add more water, it should be watery at all times) the object is to cut through, not punch through and chip the figurine, so be patience and proceed slowly, once through you can radius the edge with fine emory cloth, 320 grit will do. Another tip: you can make a dam with clay to in-circle the hole your going to make and fill with water, and speeds for the drill bit should be: 1/2" 800rpm, 1" 500rpm, 2" 350rpm, an excellent site that will answer all your questions is <www.diamond-drill-bit-andtool.com>.
Review the data for the vehicle online at a free information site, like the troubleshooting at autozone's site, or buy a manual for your model to get the correct idle speed. Normally, adjusting idle speed correctly requires setting the car to a diagnostic mode. This is often done by shorting specific connectors on a diagnostic connector, ensuring the vehicle is warmed up, the AC is off, it is in Park, and all accessories are turned off. In diagnostic mode, you should be able to set the timing (using a light normally) by rotating the distributor (for cars with distributors only). While you are in that mode, you can also check the idle speed, and adjust if your idle control system allows adjustment. Many vehicles do not allow or make no provision for adjustment. While timing can affect idle, the statement "I think you should advance the timing by adjusting the distributer a little until the RPM goes to where you need it" is not accurate. Set the timing to the specified value, then adjust idle speed. Advancing timing too far causes increased NOx emissions and stress or pinging, (and more power, to a point), reducing it too far causes loss of power and can burn valves. If your idle is still not stable after setting it to the specified value, begin troubleshooting per normal techniques.. like, checking EGR, for vacuum leaks, ignition issues, fuel delivery, etc.
Quick answer: "impossible". Spinning flywheels don't create energy. The horsepower and torque necessary to spin a flywheel up to 500rpm must come from somewhere. That being said, there are unnamed variables which make the calculation of how much kinetic energy is stored in a 40 pound flywheel impossible. How big is the flywheel? Is it a uniformly dense disk? Is most of the weight on the edge, with spokes? Too many variables, and the maths would be well beyond me. Finally, horsepower and torque are the wrong way to think about energy unless you are referring to autos, or at least automobile style engines. Horsepower is the capacity of an engine to speed something up. Torque is how much pulling power an engine has. Examples: putting a giant flywheel in an engine will lower its horsepower measurably, because the engine will need to put energy into getting the flywheel up to speed. On the other hand, a flywheel, whatever the size, doesn't affect an engines torque. A truck with a hugely heavy flywheel on the engine can still tow the same load, since the energy going into spinning the flywheel up to speed is still energy contained by the drivetrain. Big rigs have giant straight six Diesel engines with a long crankshaft, huge flywheel, heavy wheels and axels, and they might typically have 300 horsepower. However, all that spinning weight does nothing to the torque figures, which can exceed 1,000 foot pounds. Typically, automobiles have HP and torque figures within a few percent of each other.