This is a tough one!!!! But here is how it is done. Remove the clutch master cylinder from the firewall and clutch pedal (that's right, remove it!). Leave the hydraulic line connected.
Angle the master cylinder so that the line is above any other part of the cylinder (basically upside down) This allows all the air in the cylinder to rise to the top and accumulate immediately adjacent to the line.
Have a helper under the vehicle crack the slave cylinder bleeder valve open. On models where it is possible to reach, have the helper hold a rubber-gloved finger over the open valve orifice so that it acts as a one-way valve and allows no air to enter the slave cylinder on the return stroke.
Holding the master cylinder in this position, use your other hand to smoothly pump the cylinder rod and piston several times. Make sure you depress the piston completely each time. Do this slowly and smoothly. You have to push the air bubble all the way down and through the slave cylinder. Rest after three or four strokes. Any rapid movement will disperse the air throughout the cylinder, the fluid will aerate (lots of little bubbles) and the process will be unsuccessful. Be sure that the master cylinder reservoir never goes dry.
When you decide you have done enough (?), direct your helper to close the valve during the final depression stroke. Ideally, the valve would be completely closed while the piston is being depressed, not after it hits bottom.
Reinstall the master cylinder. Hope for the best.
-----------------
You should try to have three people to do this job. One to work the cylinder, one to work the bleeder valve, and one to keep the master cylinder from running dry.
When doing this job always try to keep the vehicle overnight so that any air that was aerated into the fluid will condense and you will find the problem the next morning rather than being stuck with shifting problems.
I strongly recommend that this be done in a shop that specializes in clutches. The chances of a relatively inexperienced DIYer or even an average general mechanic getting it right the first time are slim.
1993 Infiniti G20 does not have a hydrolic clutch! It has a cable, that runs under the intake stuff.
you bleed it just like you would blled your brakes 2 people one pumps then hold clutch the other opens bleed screw on slave cylinder till you get stream of fluid no air about 2 times then refill master cylinder but there is no bleeder screw on clutch
well mines not a ranger its a ford f250 super cab 7.5 l now how do i stop the clutch pedle from going to the floor
Pump the pedal to the floor and then screw on the cylinder.
Ford has used hydraulically operated clutches in the F250 for a long time. You don't adjust them. You could bleed it, if the clutch feels soft or spongy.
Trying to bleed my 2001 f250 master hyd. clutch and slave cylinder but there are no bleeder valves on either one, I know it has air in lines but can't seam to get it out.
two people open bleeder valve "down" close "up" and most important extemely slow on peddle , bleeder is on the bell housing in front of clutch fork
Right above the slave cylinder there is a bleeder screw. Just unsrew it and have someone hold in the clutch to start the bleed.
bleed clutch Saturn vue 2003
No.
No
there dry clutch's, run a cable. no fluid. .:. you can't bleed it. :)