Parts/supplies required:
New slave cylinder (includes boot, pushrod and 90 degree fitting)
Brake fluid (consult owners maual for type, dot 3 or 4 is OK)
1 can spray brake cleaner
Rags
Drain pan
Hand cleaner
Tools needed:
13 mm socket
6" extention
3/8" drive rachet
10 mm box wrench
13 mm line wrench
1. Start by raising the vehicle a little bit to gain access.
2. Open the hood and locate the clutch master cylinder. Remove the cap and top off the fluid with new unused brake fluid. Replace the cap. (This will minimize the amount of fluid leakage later.)
3. By acces from under the front of the vehicle, locate the slave cylinder just right of center near the front of the transmission. Place drain pan under the cylinder. Spray all around the cylinder with the brake cleaner to remove all dirt, grease, and grime.
4. Loosen the banjo bolt holding the line to the cylinder and fluid will run out. When it stops, remove the bolt, fitting, and both crush washers.
5. Remove both mounting bolts using the ratchet and socket. Slave cylinder, boot, and pushrod should all come out as a unit.
6. Again, spray all of the area with the brake cleaner.
7. Do not remove the fitting from the metal line, it will be reused.
8. Open your new cylinder package and assemble the boot to the push rod. The recess in the rod will insert into the boot so the shorter end is extended from the boot and the longer end is inside the boot. Slide the boot over the end of the cylinder so as to seat the boot into the groove. The rod should be firmly seated ino the piston.
9. Place the assembly into position as the old one was. Be sure to make sure the pushrod is seated firmly into the clutch fork.
10. Locate the two crush washers and new banjo bolt. Place one washer onto the bolt, insert the bolt into the old fitting, slide on the other washer onto the bolt.
11. Thread the banjo bolt into the cylinder but do not tighten.
12. Reattach the cylinder with the two bolts removed earlier. Tighten snugly, but do not over tighten.
13. Tighten the banjo bolt.
14. Loosen the bleeder screw about a quarter turn.
15. Back up top, remove the master cylinder cap. The fluid level should start to slowly drop. Do not let the fluid fall below the fill mark.
16. Close the bleeder screw when fluid starts to run out.
17. Now locate a helper. They just need to be able to reach the clutch pedal.
18. Have your helper push the pedal few times and hold it.
19. Open the bleeder screw a fraction to allow fluid to escape. You may experience some bubbling or a popping stream. This is normal. Once the padal reaches the floor, have your helper hold it until you close the bleeder.
20. Once closed, top off the master and repeatstep 19 untilno air is released from the bleeder screw. Good Luck!
The inner seals have failed. You need a new clutch slave cylinder.
The clutch slave cylinder in your 1998 Mitsubishi does not use fluid. The clutch slave cylinder is sealed with grease inside of it.
Hydraulic Hydraulic
On mine, it started leaking fluid onto the carpet behind the pedals. It's are real fix to replace the entire clutch master cylinder. There are also rebuild kits that can save you some $$.
take the car to a mechanic you dont want to tackle the clutch on an eclipse it totally sucks. you will definitely save yourself time money and headaches by just going to a mechanic
check your clutch and brake fluid
A person has to use the right type of fluid in a vehicle to help it run its best. The 2002 Mitsubishi eclipse RS uses DOT3 brake fluid as clutch fluid.
dot 3
Dot 4 brake fluid
If its standard then more than likely its the clutch.
Probably remove the transmissionm if its a internal slave, if external then its mounted on the outside of the tranny. The master clutch cylinder is located on the firewall. Bleed the system and pump the hell out of the clutch after installing the new slave. : On a 99 GST it is an external cylinder (2) 10mm bolts remove the line replace cylinder bleed system.
Mine is a cable clutch so there is no slave cylinder. But if yours is a hydraulic clutch then it should be located on the firewall on the driver side close to the master cylinder.