Remove hose and attach a vacuum gauge
Remove the vacuum hose from the modulator valve. If you see any fluid in the valve or the hose, it is defective.
if your transmission has a modulator valve check the vacuum line to see if cracked if not change the valve if no valve change fluid filter and gasket that might do the trick
first pull off the line going to it and if it has fluid in it change the modulator. Next, take the modulator off and apply vacuum to the line and stick a screw driver in the end of the modulator and see if the diaphragm moves the valve inside. If the valve doesn't move, replace the modualtor. - i am assuming ford but also you can pull the vac.line off of carb.or wherever it draws the vacume from without getting under car and check for fluid at that point Consider getting yourself a service manual as it contains many troubleshooting for your car. Comes very handy sometimes.
If you look at the passenger side of the transmission towards the back you will see it, It will have a vacuum line hooked to it, unhook it and now you will see 1 bolt in a horse shoe clamp that holds the modulator in. Remove it and pull the modulator out of the trans. being careful not to drop the little 1 inch PIN that is in the end of the modulator valve. some fluid will come out, That's okay. Now install small pin into new modulator valve and push it back in the trans. Install bracket and bolt then the vacuum line. That's it your done. Let engine get hot then check the transmission fluid while engine is running on leval ground, Add as needed. Jack up and support the rear of the vehicle when you do this job and you won't lose more than a drop of ATF.
Yes, check the vacuum line between the transmission and the throttle body. If you can see ANY sign of oil in the vacuum line, the vacuum modulator is leaking. Of course, all of that is dependant upon YOUR transmission having a vacuum modulator. Some do, some don't. Generally, they are quite simple to replace, so long as you keep everything clean.
If it has one it will be on the right rear of the transmission. There will be a vacuum line that attachs to it. With the engine running , parking brake set and selector in park, remove the line and see if you have engine vacuum. If not, repair the cause before replacing the valve.
Starting with the 1995 Ford Explorer model the transmission is ELECTRONICALLY controlled ( so there is no vacuum modulator )
Not sure which valve you are talking about, but it sounds like a vacuum check valve. If so, that's easy...air should flow one way and not the other...just blow in both ends to see if you can.
Most likely a bad vacuum modulator or no or little vacuum reaching the modulator. Check to see if there is any vacuum going to the "can looking thing" on top of the trans. It may also be a broken or misadjusted T.V. cable going from the throttle valve to the trans. (if it has one i cant remember) Take it to an actual TRANSMISSION mechanic they cost more per hour but less likely to hear the all too common "it needs a new trans".
That transmission is COMPUTER CONTROLLED and does NOT have a modulator valve. If you are having transmission problems then you need to have the transmission scanned with an OBDII engine scanner to see what is going on.
The EGR system has two main parts: EGR Vacuum Modulator and EGR Valve. The EGR Vacuum Modulator is easy to find at the top-rear of the engine. It is round and has several vacuum hoses attached to it. This part can be removed by twisting/pulling the hoses and sliding it out of it's bracket. There is a filter inside the top cap of the EGR Vacuum Modulator which can be cleaned with soapy water. Dry it thoroughly after cleaning. The EGR Valve, also round, is directly below the Modulator and connected to the modulator via a vacuum hose. It can be removed by removing two 13mm nuts, one vacuum hose and one electrical connector. The electrical connector simply unplugs. NOTE: There is a thin gasket between the valve and the head. Do not lose this. Once you have the EGR Valve removed, detach the tube with the phillips-head screw and then Unscrew the EGR Gas Temp Sensor (the part with the wire). Clean the EGR Valve with engine cleaner or carb cleaner or parts cleaner. Mine was FULL of thick oil/gunk. Clean the gasket, the temp sensor and the mating parts. Clean any gunk out of the hole in the head (a flexible mirror will help you see what's in there). Re-assemble everything. Don't forget to put the filter back into the Modulator. NOTE: The Modulator filter goes in with the smooth side down toward the ground. Reset your Check Engine fuse (15 Amp - located inside the under-hood fuse box).
you have a vacume leak probbly going to the heater control There is a check valve that prevents the loss of vacuum to the heater controls. This check valve goes bad. Then, as you accelerate, the vac. in your engine drops and along with it, the vac to the heater controls drops (is less). To fix this, locate the check valve and replace it. Follow the vacuum line from your firewall (where it goes through the fire wall) back to the check valve. This check valve may be located between the engine and a vacuum reserve tank. The heater controls may be using the vacuum from the reserve tank. In any case, find the little check valve in the vacuum lines and replace it. You will see a remarkable change in the heater controls. I hope I explained this well enough. See you Later, Check your intake gasket if it is leaking at all it will cause it.