The hydraulic clutch line reconnects by just pushing it into the connection it came out of on the slave cylinder. You should hear a click when it is in place. The clutch will not depress if the line is not fully inserted into the slave cylinder. There are little metal "fingers" inside of the connection that hold the hose in place. There are 4 groups of three fingers inside the connection. The outside two of the group are up about 1/8" and the middle one is down. A common problem is the fingers that are up get pushed down not allowing it to hold the fitting in place when it is inserted into the slave cylinder. To fix this gently use a small pick to lift the fingers back to their original height. There is also an O ring on the hydraulic line that can be lodged in the fitting. Inspect the fitting to ensure that it has not become stuck which would prohibit the quick connect from latching.
Either the clutch master cylinder or the clutch slave cylinder or the clutch hydraulic lines are leaking.
Several causes are possible, including:Low hydraulic clutch fluid. Check this first since it's a cheap and easy fix.Air in the hydraulic clutch lines.Faulty clutch master or slave cylinder.Worn out, damaged, or faulty clutch.Bent or damaged mechanical clutch linkage.
There is no adjustment on your hydraulic clutch. Try pumping (quick stabs on the pedal with your foot) the clutch a few times and then push your clutch all the way in. If the clutch works better after pumping it, your slave cylinder is leaking and needs to be replaced. If there is no difference, you may need to bleed your hydraulic lines - if you have air in there, the air will compress unlike hydraulic fluid and your slave cylinder won't have the full range of motion.
bad clutch, bad pressure plate, throw out bearing, air in the hydraulic lines...etc
If you have hydraulic clutch there is air in the lines and needs bled. If not hydraulic it could be a stretched cable, a bent clutch fork, or they have installed a clutch for a different model.
Any time the lines have been open!! Every year or two for safety.
When looking under the dash area at the clutch pedal assy., you should be able to see the pedal arm pulling a cable or pushing a rod or piston into a hydraulic cylinder. If it isn't clear at that point, you can check the transmission to see if there is a cable or hydraulic lines going to the bell-housing area.
No, the 1990 civic transmission is a cable operated clutch and the 1995 civic is a hydraulic operated clutch. So unless you rig up a hydraulic clutch system(Master cylinder, pedal, slave cylinder, lines...) it will not work. But a company called "Hasport" makes a bracket that has a cable attachment that operates the clutch engagement and disengagement.
Either the clutch fluid level could have gotten low allowing air into the lines or you may need to replace your clutch master cylinder. Try adding DOT3 brake fluid and then pumping the clutch pedal. If you start to notice some resistance then you need to bleed the clutch hydraulic lines.
Pressure by the hydraulic pump is made​​.
the clutch slave cylinder on this car is located inside the transmission itself. The part has a rubber bushing that separates the the hydraulic lines and bleeder, from the section that is located in the transmission housing itself.
Depending on the model, the clutch system is not serviceable, and there is no bleeding procedure. The factory did this on some models to make replacement quick and easy - the clutch hydraulic system to be replaced as an entire unit, clutch master cylinder, lines, clutch slave cylinder being all one piece. These units came from the factory pre-assembled, and pre-bled.
if it is a self-adjusting clutch, you can't adjust it. if the cluth engages at the top, then you will need a new clutch. just take it to a ford dealership, its the easiest way to get it done right because of the hydraulic cylinders and what not also you could try bleeding the air of of the lines
did you check your slave cylinder? is the hydraulic master cylinder leaking? did you try bleeding the clutch at all? what exactly does your pedal do? does it go straight to the floor or does it have pedal? there may be an air pocket in your lines? it could be alot of things you have to be more specific with your question
you could be low on clutch fluid, air in the lines if a small leak in the lines or your clutch is going bad
There is really good information on the hydraulic cylinder at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_cylinder. I do not believe a Honda Civic comes equipped with a Hydraulic Cylinder. It does, however come with brake and clutch master cylinders. If you are having trouble with your master cylinders, you need to get your brake lines and brakes checked as soon as possible.
The clutch pedal dropping to the floor indicates no pressure to hold it up. In a hydraulic system the master cylinder or slave cylinder have either gone bad or the fluid is too low. If fluid is low then air has gotten into the lines preventing the pressure from operating the clutch. This can also be caused by a broken arm attached to the pedal.
insert a quick disconnect tool into the coupler , the same tool you would use to disconnect fuel lines.
The function of hydraulic lines is to connect to the hydraulic system to carry either water, oil or any other form of liquid for that system. The hydraulic line is extremely important to the function of the system and works based on either a low or high pressure.
Clutch cables don't leak. Clutch cables break. Hydraulic clutch lines (read 'hoses') leak. Hydraulic clutch lines perform the same function as a clutch cable, but with a hose, hydraulic fluid, and a slave cylinder. If yours is leaking, you shouldn't try to fix the leak unless you can't afford another alternative. If you do try to fix it, you might treat it like a flat tire leak, and use a tire patch and rubber cement over the area of the hose with the hole. Reinforcing the patch with duct tape, etc. wouldn't hurt. It may get you by for a while, but it could fail on you at a dangerous time. If it's leaking at the metal fitting, or, if the fitting itself is fatigued and leaking, forget fixing it. Instead, you should remove it and replace it with a part of OEM or equal quality. This will involve the process of adding new hydraulic fluid and bleeding all the air out of your new clutch line before it functions well again. Some car parts stores will make up hydraulic hoses at custom lengths... for a fee. Before pursuing this alternative, make sure your clutch line fittings are open stock and not proprietary. Sometimes there are "O" rings or black rubber fittings on the piston in the slave cylinder. The rings wear out and the cylinder leaks, and your clutch goes to the floor.
Most likely the clutch master cylinder and/or slave cylinder has went out. It's a good rule of thumb to replace both at the same time to save frustration later on. A hydraulic clutch system works on the same principle as your brake system. Its very important that after replacing the slave and master cylinder that you properly bleed all air from the hydraulic lines to ensure proper clutch pressure.
Hydraulic is used in terms to define liquid. Hydraulic mining in the ole days was used by high pressure water. Hydraulic lines contain oil for cranes, booms, etc.
Air in the lines
A "hydraulic clutch" use's standard DOT 3 Brake Fluid nothing more. Follow the steel line from the master cylinder up, where it ends is the Fluid Reservoir. Use caution when replacing the fluid as you do not want air in the lines. So to change the fluid simply remove the fluid using an old Turkey baster and pour in the new fluid to the correct level.