do I have to drain the water and oil first before I remove the freeze plug
That refrigerant oil
Locate the bad freeze plug and remove parts that impede the facilitation of reaching the plug. Take a screwdriver and hammer out the old plug. Replace the plug with either a regular plug (a socket that fits the inside of the freeze plug helps) or a rubber expanding freeze plug.
Remove whatever parts necessary to gain access to the plug then knock the plug inside the block, turn the plug sideways then pull it out.
Pull the old freeze plug, clean up the hole, press in a replacment. Unfortunately you may need to remove a lot of peripheral stuff to get to the freeze plug.
Punch it in then pull it out with whatever means.
Normally you remove one core plug(freeze plug) and the block heater goes in there. To get a freeze plug out you some times have to tap it in, turn it sideways, and grab it with a pliers.
First check and see if there is a pouch located directly beside your battery. If there is a pouch it will contain a plug that is for the factory engine block heater. If there is no plug then you can pursue an aftermarket type. There are several types. If you want to use a freeze plug block heater, you'll need to have someone help you remove a freeze plug. That usually requires that you remove a lot of the peripheral equipment until you can get a clear access to one of the freeze plugs. Measure the freeze plug then go to an auto parts store and purchase a freeze plug block heater of that specific size. Once you have one that will fit into the hole, you can drill a hole in the freeze plug, then use a prying instrument to remove the old freeze plug. The block heater freeze plug usually goes in with a nut to tighten the freeze plug into the hole. BTW, you'll get a lot of antifreeze all over when you do this, and plan on taking your time since it will be time consuming.
You have to remove the engine and get freeze plugs pressed in. If you use a rubber plug which have a brass face and bolt in. Remember that they are a temporary fix and will come out if your engine over pressureizes.
It is on the clamp bracket and also on the motor it looks like a freeze plug where it is stamped on the motor
Remove passenger side fan that is attached to the radiator. Drain freon out of system. Remove electrial plug on compressor. Remove bolt that is located between the two hoses on an aluminum block attached to compressor. Remove the serpentine belt. Remove the 4 bolts that are located on the radiator side of the compressor. You now have it off but be careful not to damage the radiator when lifting it out.
Rust and corrosion are hard on freeze plugs. In a temperate climate one might be tempted to not use anti-freeze coolant in the engine, but that's a mistake, since the water just speeds up the rust. With the salt air and humidity always working on anything that rusts, a freeze plug will easily rust through. Cost of repairing the freeze plug will vary greatly, depending on what needs to be removed to get to it. If the freeze plug is RIGHT THERE, with nothing in the way, it might cost you $20.00. If it's behind the starter, a motor mount, the air conditioner compressor or something else that's likely to be difficult to remove, replacing the freeze plug could cost a couple hundred dollars. The freeze plug itself is cheap. A couple dollars at most. But getting to it can be anywhere from simple to a major operation.
the port side clamp bracket or the freeze plug on motor
Repiar the air ride, first do a air ride test with the air ride plug under the hood on the left side, next remove the plug from the compressor and reinstall if the compressor comes on the warning goes away you will need a compressor as the temp switch in the pump has failed
no such thing,freeze in plug
the block heater takes the place of your freeze plug, in this case you would need to locate and remove the correct freeze plug and replace it with the block heater plug, plug in the cord and route to appropriate location, done
you should take it to a repair shop to work on it.
The steel freeze plug is better than a brass freeze plug. This is because the steel freeze plug can withstand high temperature from the engine block. Moreover, the steel freeze plugs usually fit very well.
The ecu is located on the passenger side, on the wall beside the glove box. You need to remove the glove box (has 2 screws at the bottom) and to remove the ecu there is a 1 10mm bolt and bracket at the top and one at the bottom. After removing the top bracket and unscrewing the bottom bracket, you will have to disconnect the 5 plug ins that are on the ecu and drop the ecu down to remove.
Freeze plugs are installed on the side of the engine block. You will have to remove anything that is in the way. Remove the old freeze plug. Next, clean the opening of all rust and coat the new plug with avaition sealer. Now you will have to purchase an installing tool and insert the new plug in the block. Put the removed acessories back on the engine and add your coolant mix.
as in disabling it? remove the plug on the compressor on the engine and the clutch will not activate so it will not produce the cold air. When you want it back simply plug the plug back in. Bypass probably means to route the belt without attaching it to the A/C compressor. I have the same problem, as the compressor is frozen, rendering the car unusable unless I can skip the compressor in the belt assembly.
Punch a hole in the middle of the pug and pry hard it can take a lot.
YES there is. You will need to remove the starter to see it.
pull of plug wires and the 2 vacum hoses on the valve cover remove the accel cable and cruise cables and bracket also remove bracket by alt, remove 2 bolts in front of timing cover holding wiring on top of valve cover from alt, remove big nuts on top of valve cover there is 4 remove spark plug hole seals.remove cover....reverse to install
Did you remove the head?.....If so, the head gasket is probably incorrect or incorrectly installed, or possibly a cracked head or block.....Why did the freeze plug need replacing?....