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should be a 9/16 bolt on a retainer looks like a Y on the distributor and its bolted to the intake remove the bolt and retainer take the distributor cap off leave the wires on unless you mark the cap and corresponding wire
It is inside the distributor, it has three wires running to it, and it looks like a small black plateIt is inside the distributor, it has three wires running to it, and it looks like a small black plate
1)Rotate the engine until the No 1 piston is on Top Dead Center TDC of its compression stroke. The timing marks on the crank shaft and the pointer are aligned. 2)Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect the wiring harness from the distributor. Mark the #1 spark plug tower on the cap for reference. 3)Remove the distributor cap. Matchmark the rotor position to the distributor housing. Scribe a mark in the distributor body and the engine block to indicate the position of thedistributor in the engine. 4)Remove the distributor hold-down bolt and clamp - Remove the distributor from the engine. Do not rotate engine while the distributor is removed. 5)Remove the two screws going through the plastic cover. Remove PIP unit, and replace with a new one. These are normally light tan in color - if it looks burnt - darkened it is probably defective. Or the Hall Effect vane stator switch assembly. 6)Before reinstalling the distributor - rotate the distributor shaft so the rotor points toward the mark on the distributor housing made previously. Rotate the rotor slightly so the leading edgeof the vane is centered in the vane switch state assembly. Rotate the distributor in the engine block to align the leading edge of the vane with the vane switch stator assembly. Make sure the rotoris pointing to the No 1 mark on the distributor base. If things don't line up raise the distributor just enough to disengage it from the gear and rotate it to engage another gear tooth. Note: some require removing the gear from the shaft to replace the PIP. Remove the drift pin from the gear - clean the shaft with emory cloth and then you can replace the ignition parts.
inside distributor under cap (expensive) Honda calls it an ignitor its part of the distributor actually it is the distributor
The clamp on a pulley looks like a shackle that you see on the end of a chain if the pulley is stainless steel with a clamp on it you can use for flagpoles if there is a hole at the top of the pole that is what the clamp on the pulley is for to clamp it into place it will never rust or fall off whatever rope you use make sure it has lasting longevity and it won't snap or break
A burette clamp looks like the letter X. However, it has some so adjustable pegs on both end which are used for purposes of adjusting it.
If the coil looks the same you should be able to use it and only if the coil isn't mounted in the distributor.
a w12 has 12 cylinders...its basically 2 v6's next to each other like this V V see looks like a "W"
It looks to me that you may need to remove the water pump and the air intake system to reach the distributor cap. I'll find out this weekend for sure!!!
It is on the clamp bracket and also on the motor it looks like a freeze plug where it is stamped on the motor
I had the same problem with 93 Colt and troubleshooters told me the ECM was bad. Incorrect...the problem lies inside your distributor. There is a part that looks like one of those batteries that connect to the bottom of a portable hand tool. I think its called a coil or coil package and is beneath the rotor inside the distributor. Bought one used for $20.00, reinstalled the entire guts of the distributor and car cranked right up. No problems since. Did not remove distributor shaft.