Its nice when people leave out information. There are six bolts that hold on the hub outer housing, you have to take them out and take off the two pieces, there you will see the splined shaft from the CV axle. On my 91 there is an internal snap ring that has to come out for the hub clutch to come out. I recommend you go and get some snap ring pliers for this. After that is removed you'll see the spindle, take a paper towel and wipe off the flat part or the backing area that the clutch was resting against, you'll see three screws (Phillips head) that is in a ring, in a triagle pattern. Get a good screw driver to take it out and be very careful not to strip these. after that is out there will be a few parts that will come out, then will be the spindle nut. On mine it looks like a flat washer with two holes in it. I have found that www.summitracing.com is the only place that has the tool to remove this properly. None of my local stores had it. Oreilly's might have had it. You can remove it with a flat head screw driver and a hammer, but I recommend getting the tool to put it back in. Remove the caliper and use something to hang it to the spring, don't hang it by the brake hose, it can damage the hose and allow it to bust when you step on the brake. Then you can remove the rotor and hub, place your hand at the end of the spindle as the outter bearing can fall out when its pulled off the hub, the inner bearing should be held in by the wheel seal, the Rotor should be held on by six bolts from behind to the hub, the rotor should just come off after removing the bolts. As you pull everything off label them outside to inside and keep them in order to ease installation. When you put the rotor back on the hub the bolts need to be tightened to 50 ft/lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench then use a 3/8 drive ratchet and get it as tight as you can get it. It will be close to 50 ft/lbs. Now would be a good time to repack the bearings or replace them if they are wearing out. It is recommended to do so every 5 years make sure to pack them properly. And get new wheel seals if you change the bearings. Put the rotor and hub back on the spindle, follow that with the inner bearing. Then you need to put the hub nut on and adjust the bearings. This is much easier with the socket I said to get, but if you can't get it then use the flat head, Tighten the nut so that you can't turn the rotor and hub, then slowly back it off until the rotor and hub turn with little resistance, Make sure that the rotor and hub don't wiggle any, worn bearings can cause this, or backing the nut off too much can as well. Now you can put the caliper on if you wish, then follow up with everything that was removed putting on in reverse order that you removed, tighen the screws so that they are flush, and don't strip them. Then put the hub clutch back in and reaching from behind pull the CV axle to you and install the snap ring. It will be easier to put the ring on the axle and push it into place with a flathead while your pulling the axle. Then put on and tighen down the hub cover and put the caliper on if haven't done so. You can test operation by lifting all four wheels off the ground, do this with the front tires on, put it 4 wheel high and drive, just ease off the brakes until the front tires start turning, then step on the gas, after you hit 30 mph step on the brakes and make sure they stop, make sure you step on the brakes before putting it in gear to adjust the front brakes. Then put it in reverse and do it again. Then put it back in 2 wheel and reverse again if you have the auto locking hubs to disenage them. If you don't have them and have the shift on the fly then you can skip this since the hubs won't disenage.
Remove caliper and pull rotor off the hub. Push new one on, replace caliper and pads.
The old broken one must be driven out and the new one driven or pressed in.
The rear rotor thickness should be three quarters of an inch, when new. The rotor should not be reused when the thickness is less than one half inch.
Hubless design: Raise car, remove wheel, remove caliper, remove brake pad holder, remove rotor. Hub/rotor assembly: Raise car, remove wheel, remove caliper, remove brake pad holder, remove axle nut and cotter pin, remove outer wheel bearing, remove hub/rotor assembly, separate rotor from hub assembly. Re-pack wheel bearings with grease upon reassembly.
On the rear wheeels. some have a special drum inside the rotor and some use the caliper.
Remove wheel Remove caliper mounting bolts Slide caliper off rotor Rotor will slide off hub assembly
The complete hub and rotor assembly have to be removed in order to drive out wheel studs to separate the rotor from the hub. So, remove wheel, remove caliper, remove caliper bracket, remove axle retaining nut, remove 4 bolts holding hub assembly to spindle, dissconnect ABS sensor harness, remove hub assembly, remove all wheel studs then separate rotor from hub.
Remove the tire and wheel. Remove the brake assembly and rotor. Remove the axle end cap. The rear hub assembly will come off.
Remove the tire and wheel from your 1995 Chevy. Remove the brake assembly. Tap on the brake rotor with a mallet or hammer. The brake rotor will slide off.
Remove the wheel then remove the two calipher bolts that hold the calipher to the spindle. Then remove the calipher assembly out of the way and support it. Do not allow the calipher assembly to hang from the brake hose. At this point the rotor can be removed......1930fcoupe
Remove the wheel and tire assembly and the brake caliper then the brake rotor will slide right off.