How do you replace a clutch cable on a 1974 Volkswagen Beetle?

Answer 1

First, you will need to remove the large wing-nut off of the cable where it attaches to the transmission arm. You will probably have to jack up the car and get underneath to do this, so be careful under there, and use jack-stands and block the vehicle from moving. While you are down there, I suggest pulling the flexible tubing away from the transmission. It slides out away from the transmission. It will make your reassembly much easier if you pull that tube away from the transmission because the cable won't have to make that sharp turn. Next, you need to unbold the pedal assembly in the car. There are just 2 large bolts to undo. You will need to disconnect the accellerator cable before pulling the pedal assy from the center tunnel, and you will also have to remove the brake rod that attaches to the brake pedal. After you get the accellerator cable and brake rod off, you can pull out the whole pedal assy. from the center tunnel. Remove slowly, and take a peak in the hole. You should notice the clutch cable and how it attaches to the 'hook' on the end of the pedal. Unhook the cable from the hook, and now you can pull the pedal assy completely out. Take a good look at the 'hook' on the pedal and make sure it isn't worn out really bad...they can wear to the point where they break right there...so give it a good inspection before putting it all back together. Now you can pull out the old clutch cable. Take notice that the cable is routed in a tube that runs inside the center tunnel, because that is exactly where you need to thread in the new cable. Slide in the new cable all the way. Now, go back to under the car, and make sure that the cable is running thru the flexy tube. Poke the whole thing, cable and tube, thru the hole in the transmission that you pulled it away from earlier. So now, the flexy tube is back in place that way it was. Stick the cable thru the arm in the transmission, but don't put on the wingnut yet! Go to the pedal assy. Put the cable on the hook as you put the assy back into the hole in the center tunnel. This is the tricky part. Hook the cable on...and stick the pedal assy in. You should now push the clutch pedal down to the floor...as if you were going to push the clutch in. This will keep the cable from sliding off of the hook while you bold the assy back to the center tunnel. You need to be careful to make sure that the pedals don't come too far back...they need to be depressed...at least the clutch one does. Before you hook the accellerator and brake rod back on, tighten down 2 bolt all the way. Clutch is still to the floor...all the way down. Go under the car next, and pull the cable all the way thru the arm in the transmission, so that you pull the clutch pedal back into normal position. If you do this correctly, the cable won't have fallen off the hook. Tighten the wingnut. I usuall put a small pair of vice-grips on the cable end to keep it from twisting as I put the wingnut on. You will need to adjust the clutch cable so that you press the clutch pedal about an inch before it starts to engage the pressure plate. Don't tighten the wing nut too far, or the clutch will 'ride' on your throwout bearing and wear out your clutch itself. Give your clutch pedal a good pump or two and make sure everything is working smoothely without any binding and such, and that you have your inch of 'slop' in the clutch adjustment. Once you verify all this is good, you can replace the brake rod. The brake rod should also have some 'slop'. With the brake padal all the way back, in it's normal position, there should be a tiny bit of slop where the rod connects into the master cyclinder. Sometimes the pedal adjustment gets off a little when removing the pedal assy, so make sure it is all good going back together. There is a pedal stop that determins how far back the pedals rest when in the normal position. You might need to fudge with that to fine tund the pedal position if things don't go back in place correctly. Last thing is to put the accellerator cable back on. You want that adjusted so that your carb opens all the way up when the gas pedal is all the way down....but at the same time, it needs to be loose enough to let the carb close all the way. Good luck, and stay safe.