2. get a container and drain the Transmission Fluid so you dno't make a mess when you pull the drive shaft.
2.a unscrew the four bolts that secure the drive shaft to the rear end
2.b hit the exhaust bolts with penetrating oil again
3. remove your container of tranny fluid and replace the drain plug.
4. remove the drive shaft by popping it off the rear end and then sliding it out of the transmission, if you have a plug for the tranny, use it now to avoid drips in your work space.
4.a ****FOR MANUAL TRANSMISSION**** remove the rubber insert in the large storage area of your console and remove the bolt holding it in. once that is removed, pull the carpet back around the shift boot and remove the bolts which hold it in place, slip the boot off the top of the shifter. Here you can make it easier on yourself by removing the 4 bolts that keep the shift stick in place and remove it entirely, or you can undo the lock washer on the bottom of the shift stick, and unscrew the stick, leaving a bit of the male end attached to the tranny. If you opt to just remove the stick you will have to drop the tranny further to pull it out.
If you remove the four bolts holding the shift stick in place, there will be a plastic piece attached to the knob on the bottom of the shift stick, which situates the stick correctly inside the tranny, it will pop off and you will have to fish it out later but you won't have to drop the tranny as far.
5. now hit the exhaust with the penetrating oil again, these are not bolts and nuts but studs and nuts, you DO NOT want to strip or snap them off so patience is key in this step. Get a hammer and give them a couple of good solid strikes everywhere but the nuts, you don't want to ding up the nuts, who does? Then with the correct box wrench, place the closed end on the nut and strike the wrench, this will allow you to break free oxidation, rust and grime that has gotten in there without dinging the outside of the nut. Then slowly apply pressure and began loosening them, as SOON as you get it to budge a little bit, retighten it the same amount and hit it with oil again, work it back and forth before taking it all the way off to let the oil do its work and make your job easier. remove all six in this fashion, it took me about 20 25 minuts, and i didn't strip any.
6. Now unbolt the crossmember that is supporting the transmission, before doing this, use another floor jack or a stand to support the tranny. the crossmember and the short exhaust section should come out as one piece.
7. lower the tranny enough to unsnap all the connections for odo/speedo etc. as well make sure to unsnap the 3 fuel lines that run across the top of it.
7.a The clutch line connects on the side of the tranny, drivers side. The connector is similar to an air compressor connection. There is a plastic ring inside a collar. the plastic ring must be depressed ATLEAST flush with the collar, mine actually sunk beneath a touch and then popped right out. This may take a while, it did for me, because i didn't want to damage anything.
7.b double check that nothing else is attached to the tranny.
8. Between the engine and the tranny there is a dust cover that is between the flywheel and the engine, there are 4 small bolts that hold it in place. It must be removed or the tranny will not come out. It will not drop free until you pull the tranny.
9. Remove the 5 bolts and one nut and bolt that fasten the tranny to the engine.
10. get ready to catch. lower the tranny until you've cleared the top of the shift housing from the bottom of the vehicle and slide her out.
10. Unbolt pressure plate, remove clutchplate
11. unbolt flywheel, and go ahead and check for oil leaks, make sure your rear seal around the engine out put shaft is good, and that there are no leaks around back of your oil pan.
you're halfway there, and your ready to install components, but before you do, take your flywheel to a machine shop before you get lunch and have them turn/resurface it for about 20 bucks, its a nit picky thing, but after all the work you've done, just do it it'll help tame any clutch chatter that you may have experienced or may have been slated to experience in the future.
then reverse these instructions to get your wheels back on the road and good luck!
how do you replace hydraulic line on a 1997 s-10
Yes, the clutch throwout bearing is hydraulically operated.
You will need to remove the transmission to replace the clutch slave.
Either the clutch master cylinder or the clutch slave cylinder or the clutch hydraulic lines are leaking.
I need to replace release bearing in a 1995 Chevy s10 truck and need to know how to disconnect the hydraulic clutch line for the transmission.
The clutch master cylinder on a Chevy S10 is replaced by disconnecting the metal lines, unscrewing the retaining bolts, and removing it from the housing. A new master cylinder can then be put into place and reattached.
Usually there are 4 nuts holding the clutch and fan on to the water pump shaft. Just pull the nuts, remove the fan clutch and replace it.
no it wont but a 2wd Chevy silverado 700r trany will. besides that a 2.2 you will have to replace the clutch alot
It doesn't have a clutch cable. The clutch is hydraulically operated.
The clutch is hydraulic operated, there is no cable.
how do u replace a flywheel in a Chevy zr2 s10 2003 v6
where can i find a diagram for a 1997 chevy s10 brake switch?
How do you change a Master Cylinder and hydraulic clutch line for a 1998 Chevy S10?
1997 S10 4 cylinder engine pressure plate to flywheel bolts, 33 ft lbs.1997 S10 V6 engine pressure plate to flywheel bolts, 29 ft lbs.
where and how to adjust clutch pedal 1993 s10 It is hydraulic operated, there is no adjustment.
It doesn't have a clutch cable. It is hydraulic operated.
1991 Chevy s10 how to replace outside window weather strip
You replace the brakes on an ABS S10 the same way you replace brakes on a non ABS S10.
how do you replace dome light in s10 chey blazer?
Which part do you want to replace? The slave cylider or the master cylinder? The hydraulic line and master cylinder.
the shifter is all in one. you have to replace the whole shifter. the nob is attached
The fan clutch on a 1997 S10 has a bolt on the center of the front. Remove the bolt while holding the clutch still. There is a special tool to grab the clutch fan from the rear to hold it while removing the bolt.
The clutch fluid reservoir is located on the firewall close to the brake master cylinder. You can visually see the level unless the reservoir is to dirty.
Between $110.00 and $300.00