How do you replace the clutch on a 1997 Chevy S-10?

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** Apply the parking break and block the rear tires, jack up the front end and secure it on 2 jack stands. 1. Spray "break free" or any penetrating oil on your exhaust bolts. My truck had a flexible section that coupled it to the exhaust manifold so i didn't have to remove it there, i only had to remove the small section containing the catalytic converter. There were 6 bolts, give them a good liberal dousing with a pentrating oil and let them sit. If you have different exhaust or aftermarket, adjust your plan accordingly.
2. get a container and drain the transmission fluid so you dno't make a mess when you pull the drive shaft.
2.a unscrew the four bolts that secure the drive shaft to the rear end
2.b hit the exhaust bolts with penetrating oil again
3. remove your container of tranny fluid and replace the drain plug.
4. remove the drive shaft by popping it off the rear end and then sliding it out of the transmission, if you have a plug for the tranny, use it now to avoid drips in your work space.
4.a ****FOR MANUAL TRANSMISSION**** remove the rubber insert in the large storage area of your console and remove the bolt holding it in. once that is removed, pull the carpet back around the shift boot and remove the bolts which hold it in place, slip the boot off the top of the shifter. Here you can make it easier on yourself by removing the 4 bolts that keep the shift stick in place and remove it entirely, or you can undo the lock washer on the bottom of the shift stick, and unscrew the stick, leaving a bit of the male end attached to the tranny. If you opt to just remove the stick you will have to drop the tranny further to pull it out.
If you remove the four bolts holding the shift stick in place, there will be a plastic piece attached to the knob on the bottom of the shift stick, which situates the stick correctly inside the tranny, it will pop off and you will have to fish it out later but you won't have to drop the tranny as far.
5. now hit the exhaust with the penetrating oil again, these are not bolts and nuts but studs and nuts, you DO NOT want to strip or snap them off so patience is key in this step. Get a hammer and give them a couple of good solid strikes everywhere but the nuts, you don't want to ding up the nuts, who does? Then with the correct box wrench, place the closed end on the nut and strike the wrench, this will allow you to break free oxidation, rust and grime that has gotten in there without dinging the outside of the nut. Then slowly apply pressure and began loosening them, as SOON as you get it to budge a little bit, retighten it the same amount and hit it with oil again, work it back and forth before taking it all the way off to let the oil do its work and make your job easier. remove all six in this fashion, it took me about 20 25 minuts, and i didn't strip any.
6. Now unbolt the crossmember that is supporting the transmission, before doing this, use another floor jack or a stand to support the tranny. the crossmember and the short exhaust section should come out as one piece.
7. lower the tranny enough to unsnap all the connections for odo/speedo etc. as well make sure to unsnap the 3 fuel lines that run across the top of it.
7.a The clutch line connects on the side of the tranny, drivers side. The connector is similar to an air compressor connection. There is a plastic ring inside a collar. the plastic ring must be depressed ATLEAST flush with the collar, mine actually sunk beneath a touch and then popped right out. This may take a while, it did for me, because i didn't want to damage anything.
7.b double check that nothing else is attached to the tranny.
8. Between the engine and the tranny there is a dust cover that is between the flywheel and the engine, there are 4 small bolts that hold it in place. It must be removed or the tranny will not come out. It will not drop free until you pull the tranny.
9. Remove the 5 bolts and one nut and bolt that fasten the tranny to the engine.
10. get ready to catch. lower the tranny until you've cleared the top of the shift housing from the bottom of the vehicle and slide her out.
10. Unbolt pressure plate, remove clutchplate
11. unbolt flywheel, and go ahead and check for oil leaks, make sure your rear seal around the engine out put shaft is good, and that there are no leaks around back of your oil pan.
you're halfway there, and your ready to install components, but before you do, take your flywheel to a machine shop before you get lunch and have them turn/resurface it for about 20 bucks, its a nit picky thing, but after all the work you've done, just do it it'll help tame any clutch chatter that you may have experienced or may have been slated to experience in the future.
then reverse these instructions to get your wheels back on the road and good luck!
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