1990 Mazda B2200 Water Pump Replacement
Out of all the water pumps I've ever replaced this was definitely one of them. Note: You will be removing the timing belt, if your skill level is basic at best, consider getting someone more experienced. If your the adventurous type, give it a try. The whole job took me about 2 1/2 hours, which is what the book time at your local garage is. You won't need any special tools just an assortment of metric sockets, and a small 8mm wrench to remove the nuts holding the fan to the pulley.
1) First you will need to order the new water pump, duh!
2) Drain radiator fluid from rad.
3) Loosen Alternator securing bolt, and make sure belt is slack
4) Remove radiator shroud and fan.
5) Remove fan pulley, and belt from alternator.
6) Remove three large bolts from pulley assembly that secure it to the engine block.
7) You may need to remove the top one of the three rubber hoses that run from the carburetor to the exhaust manifold, to provide easier removal of the plastic timing belt housing.
8) Remove all the bolts that secure the plastic timing cover. Make sure you note where each one came from as they are different lenghts.
9) Remove top portion of the cover, it's a bit of a tight squeeze but firmly wiggle it up and out. Now do the same with the lower half, it's a little awkward but be firm with it, but don't break it!
10) The timing belt, tension rollers and water pump drive pulley will now be exposed. Follow the left side of the timing belt down until it disapears into the lower part of the housing, and Stuff a small piece of paper towel or rag down between the belt and the lower pulley, so that it doesn't move off the pulley when you remove the belt off the top. It's not a big deal if it does, it's just that I'm the type to put things back just as I found them.
11) Now with a bit of white out, or pen mark the belt where it meets the two timing marks, I do this just so I know the belt hasn't slipped a tooth when I put it back on the pulley later.
12) Now loosen and remove the tension pulley bolt, it's the on the left with a little spring coming off to the right of the pulley. Hold onto the pulley while loosen the bolt as it will come away from the housing,. Unhook the small spring from the peg, and put the pulley asside.
13) Now remove the other pulley on the left and put it aside.
14) Now make sure your hands are clean or free from grease as you don't want to get the belt all greasy, as it weakens the integrity of the belt.
15) Remove the belt from around the cam shaft drive pulley. You will need to feed it down past the three recirculation pipes that go to the carburetor. Just make sure it's well out of the way as you don't want to nick or pich it when removing the water pump and housing bolts.
16) Now remove the 6 bolts that secure the water pump housing, making sure to note where each one came from as a few are different lengths.
17) Now gently pry the pump housing away from the engine block, some remaining fluid may start to leak out but it's not much just make sure you have a catch basin below to collect the fluid
18) Clean off the area around where the pump gasket meets the block, you may need to scrap off old gasket residue, just make sure it's clean and dry when finished. There will be one large plastic seal, and two small pieces that need to be removed from the old pump housing and applied to the new one.
19) The pump comes with a gasket, or you can use a gasket sealant, or the two combined. I prefer both, I applied the sealent to the surface of the pump, let it get a little tacky, then applied the gasket. I then applied the sealent to the side that will be facing the engine, Let it get a little tacky.
20) Now very carefully fit the pump housing in place, making sure not to buckle the platic seal as it meets the existing casing and make sure pump housing fits snug against block.
21) Now carefully put the 6 housing bolts back in using your fingers, making sure not to cross thread bolts. Tighten bolts in a cross patern like when tightening lug nuts on a tire rim.
22) Now all you need to do is reverse steps 15 through 1.
23) When your sure everything is back in it's place, all bolts are tight and you don't have any left over parts, fill the radiator with fluid and start the engine.
24) Let the engine warm up, keep rad cap off to allow any air bubbles in the system to escape.
25) Put cap on rad and check areas around pump for leakage. No leaks means a job well done, and on top of that you saved your self some cash!
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