Author: Don Craig Applicable to: All vehicles with V6 Added: 09/19/2002 Updated: 09/19/2002
You will need a 1/4" drive metric set with 7, 8, & 10mm sockets. 10mm must be deepwell to get to the nuts on the battery clamp. Some extensions and a driver handle are a nice plus. Waterpump belt part # is F5RZ-8620-A, aka JK3-274
Remove the engine/pump belt plastic cover and battery. Push the belt tensioner in till it hits the cam pulley and remove the drive belt. The tensioner will move inward by hand, I was surprised how easy it moved. Unclip the plastic clamp around the water hoses. Unclamp the hose attached to the steel tube that runs along the front of the engine, have a pan under the car ready to catch the coolant that will spill out when you pull the hose off. Leave the cap on the expansion tank, this will slow the loss of coolant.
If you have an ATX, remove the plug and cable from the top of the tranny and set it out of the way to keep it dry. This will also keep it safe from ratchet blows and give you more room. MTX owners have plenty of room. Minor differences from year to year are the placement of the PCV hoses, which may be in the way.
Unbolt the thermostat housing (2 bolts) and remove the housing and short section of hose that goes with it. You can study the thermostat if you desire. Make sure you put the O-ring back when you reassemble it. Fun part. You need to hold the big radiator and heater hose away and maneuver the 8mm socket on to the pump bolts. No need to unclamp them if you are handy. Note the position of the 3 long bolts that go through the pump front and into the engine block when removing the bolts. After all the bolts are removed the pump usually sets there because the gasket is still holding it. Take a punch (or screwdriver for us poor folks) and tap the front section a little to remove its grip. It will fly off, coolant and pieces of the impeller will go with it. I hunted down the pieces to make sure I had it all, some sections got stuck in the rear housing. If you can't find all of them, best you back flush the engine now.
All you need is the front section of the pump with the impeller and gasket. If you got the new pump that comes with the rear housing and hoses and want to replace all of it, this is the time for it. Some of the hoses are buried under the intake. Don't need replacing unless they are old and worn out.
Clean up the area and install the new front impeller section and new gasket.
If you have an ATX, clean and blow out the socket on the tranny, lube the gasket in the plug with silicone grease and install. Reverse the order and refill what you lost in the tank. It will take a couple of heat ups and cool downs to get all the coolant back in. Take a bottle of Dexcool with you, or drive around, let it cool, refill.
Inline 4 Cylinder
Remove the air intake assembly, disconnect the negative battery terminal, then take off the serpentine belt. Rotate the crankshaft pulley until the cylinders are on the compression stroke, top dead center (TDC). Remove the top timing belt cover and mark the camshaft sprocket thingies so that you can exactly re-align them on reassembly. Remove the middle timing belt cover.
Remove the crankshaft pulley so that you can remove the bottom timing belt cover.
The Haynes manual says to pull the starter and use a large screwdriver to keep the gears from moving (on the automatic transmission), but doing so damaged the flywheel; a mechanic recommended using an impact driver to break it loose.
On the manual tranny, put it in 5th gear.
Remove the Power Steering pump, leaving the lines connected. Drain the coolant into a container. Disconnect the water pump hose that was hidden by the power steering pump. Lock the camshaft sprocket thingies so that they don't move and remove the timing belt. Unbolt the four bolts in the water pump, remove the two timing pulleys from the water pump (requires a funky star head bit, runs about $5) and install them on the new one. Reassemble.
Ford Contour was created in 1995.
The curb weight of a 1995 Ford Contour is 2769 pounds.
Locate pcv valve on 1995 ford contour
just pull it out an replace with a new one
with a screwdriver.
How to replace right from headlight bulb on 2000 ford contour 4 cyl...?
what would it could to replace time belt on a Ford Contour 1999?
The transmission plug on a 1995 Ford Contour is located on the side of the pan. It allows for fluid to be quickly drained during maintenance.
Are there any steps on how to change the alternator on a 1198 ford contour?
Yes , a 1995 Ford Contour should have a heater core . It is used to warm the air ( if necessary ) that comes in to the passenger compartment of the vehicle
You take it to the shop. You have to take off the timing belt to do the water pump
The Ford Tempo was introduced as a 1984 model to replace the Ford Fairmont. Then it was replaced by the 1995 Contour. That's a production run of 10 years. (1984-1994).
In the fuel tank
The ( 1996 ) Ford Contour has a ( 14.5 U.S. gallon / 55.0 litre gas tank )
On the engine end of the upper rad hose. Make sure when you replace it the spring goes toward the engine.
The Ford Contour was produced from the years 1995 to 2000. The front pump transmission seal in a 1998 Ford Contour is located very close to the camshaft.
Go to the Library, & get a Haynes manual for the 1995 through 2000 Contour. Or go to the Ford Dealer parts dept., & have them print out the picture of of it. that will give you an idea of what you need to take apart. better yet get both.
They are available online. Do a google search for "Contour wiring diagram".
The water pump is driven by the timing belt, so.....afraid not.
I was looking at fordparts.com and for the 1995 Ford Contour 2.0 liter four cylinder it shows ( Motorcraft RT-1150 , a 190 * F thermostat )
You have to take the timing belt off it is located behind it
if the 1995 ford contour is not running (transmission or engine is bad )a good price for it is $ 75 and they have to come to you and pick up the car.
Its behind the timing belt cover