How do you tight valve cover gasket in Mazda Protege 1998?

Answer 1

I'll tell you how to do the job right. In my experience, this is the only way for my 98 protege that works for sure.

You'll need:

-a cold engine.

-an inch-lbs torque wrench that can read as low as the torque specification for this (keep reading--I'll share that)

-a 10mm socket

-a socket extension (I use a 10" extension--length or multiple extensions contrary to popular thought do not affect the accuracy of your torque wrench in situations like these)

-good bolts (if any of them start to strip or weaken, spend less than $5 at your local hardware store/lowes/Home Depot and purchase 9 bolts--the thread you're looking for is M6x1.0--use an old bolt to compare length--and purchase 9 regular flat washers to go with--these bolts will likely be 10.9 grade, which is fine. I wouldn't recommend weaker bolts than that though.)

Steps Before you torque it down: make sure that the grooves on the valve cover that the gasket sits in are cleanas best as you can make them, and the surfaces on the head where the gasket seals against are all clean as best as you can make them. be sure not to put any deep scratches anywhere the gasket will be.

Assuming everything is straight, you will not need gasket maker/sealant for this and should not use any. I will address exceptions at the end.

Seat the gasket carefully into the valve cover--it must be fully seated in all grooves--don't forget the spark plug holes!

Turn the valve cover back over and carefully set it on the head. The gasket, if fully seated, should remain in the valve cover. Line up the bolt holes.

Drop a bolt/washer combination into each of the 9 holes. (Hex flanged bolts are the OEM spec part.)

Here's where you'll begin tightening:

From this point forward, follow this (Mazda-specified) tightening sequence ONLY:

1 --> 2 --> 3 -\

\

/-> 7 --> 8 --> 9 \

\ /

\- 6 <-- 5 <-- 4 <-

1) Spin all bolts down (in order) until they just barely seat on the valve cover. This is easiest if you make a screwdriver out of your socket and extension (without the torque wrench).

2) Assemble your socket, extension, and torque wrench. If you have a click type wrench, go ahead and set it. If you have a beam-type (the big needle kind), that's okay. That's what I use. The specification is about 66 to 95 inch-lbs.

3) Snug all bolts down (in order) until they barely begin to offer you resistance through the torque wrench.

4) Start at bolt 1 again, and fully torque all bolts (in order) to spec.

5) To verify, go through the tightening sequence again. This is more easily verified in my opinion with a beam type, as you can watch the needle hold at the specified torque.

After tightening: Put your tools away, shut the hood, and go drive the vehicle long enough (i.e., go to the semi-distant 7-11 for something to drink) to give it a chance to leak through the valve cover if it's going to. If you torqued it properly and your valve cover is not warped or damaged and the head is not warped or damaged, it shouldn't leak.

When you come back, shut off the motor, open the hood, and take a look. Look closely around all edges of the valve cover for fresh wetness. If there's already lots of wet grime from before, wash it away, let it dry, and drive the car again.

If you're leaking in one section around the outside but not the whole thing, you may have a warped valve cover, assuming that there are no serious digs/gouges/scratches in the valve cover or the head.

If you are leaking, let the engine cool again, and redo the procedure as described below. You may reuse the same gasket if you've just bought it and it hasn't been damaged (i.e., no kinks/tears/etc). That's the beauty of rubber.

When you redo the procedure however, make sure everything gasket-related is once again very clean (i.e. free of oil), then apply gasket maker (I recommend Permatex Ultra Black--great stuff--but make sure its a black, highly oil-resistant type gasket maker) both in the groove on the valve cover, and on the other side of the gasket that will contact the head. Apply it only in and somewhat beyond the leaking area(s), and apply it somewhat liberally. Try not to get the stuff on any moving parts in the head. Follow the tightening procedure exactly the same way.

Once you've torqued the valve cover again with gasket maker, regardless of what the directions say on the tube, let it sit there and dry/cure (without starting the motor) for at least 3 hours if not more. The 1 hour of drying is not enough in my experience for a truly good seal.

Once it's had hours on end to cure, drive the vehicle whenever you next choose to, and then after enough driving, take another look. Look for leaks around the whole thing again, but concentrate in the area(s) where you used gasket maker, and just beyond that/those area(s).

At this point, it should be sealing. If it's not:

Do you have seriously deep gouges in the head, or any cracks? Take it to a reputable machine shop specializing in engines and see what they think is possible. HOPEFULLY this is not the case. If your engine runs very well, your head is likely not warped, and you'll be okay.

Do you have seriously deep gouges or any cracks in your valve cover? Is your valve cover seriously warped to the point of not being able to even torque it down well? Replace the valve cover when you are able. Make sure the one you get is straight and in otherwise good condition.

I hope you've been able to make use of this information. My name's Daniel, and I'm a Mazda mechanic for a living. If you have questions, email me at one of my personal email addresses: thrashmandan@gmail.com. Have fun, and do it right! =>