Gunite can last for decades with good soil conditions. Plaster is the part that needs to be redone periodically, but maintaining proper chemistry will allow your plaster to last much longer.
If your builder knows what he is doing it should be waterproofGunite is not waterproof on its own. It needs a final waterproofing by means of plaster or paint.
Rebar and or ties exposed in a gunite/shotcrete pool shell is bad but not unrepairable. The exposed steel can rust, and may bleed through the plaster leaving a stain. It may also cause the plaster to delaminate in that area. To remedy the situation the rebar and ties should be cut back or ground out and into the concrete. Hydraulic cement can be used to patch over the areas before the pool is plastered.
the plaster will 7 to 15 yrs, the pool should last at least 40 yrs and probably much longer,
A gunite pool shell IS waterproof before plastering. First, gunite/shotcrete is not water proof. The reason for the plaster is to make the pool water proof. You don't have to and should not water proof gunite because it will affect the bonding properties for the plaster. Contrary to the previous answer, Gunite is in fact "waterProof" when correctly applied. Unless there are improperly prep'd cold-joints (the point at which one application has stopped for some reason -perhaps rain, slow truck turnaround, etc- and begun at a later time), a Gunite pool could virtually be "painted", providing a high steel-trowel finish was applied to the Gunite. But, Gunite pops (begins to set and cure) faster than typically appied Marblite or Diamond Bright type cementitious finishes. Actually, the Gunite "finish" surface is purposely left fairly rouch, providing a better surface to which the finish/color material may bond.
How often should you resurface a gunite pool?
No, it should not be allowed to dry before applying plaster. Plaster should be applied when the PVA is 'Tacky'. If you're unsure you can always use Blue Grit instead of PVA.
Drywall primer should be used.
If it was working ok before you lined it and you have no problems removing the liner you should have no problems.
Thinned plaster of Paris.
Plaster pools are pretty robust, and have virtually no issues freezing for short periods of time. If you are in a climate that stays frozen (for more than a day, like Central Florida) then you want to winterize the pool. A quick Google search should yield good answers as to how.
the general idea at the out set is that they don't.
The plaster in the bottom is the thickest and is trolled to be straight. The plasterer is not going to use a transit to see if it is level, it's just going to be what it is. After working a year and seeing the construction of about 160 pools, I've never had a customer call back because the bottom of the pool was not level. I think it is a non-issue. The location of the main drains should be in the deepest part.
You should be able to use it as soon as there is water in the pool
The bricks should be wetted so the bricks do not suck the moisture out of the plaster and allow it to dry to fast and then flake off.
plaster should be
Yes you can (re-plaster) There should be a company in your area that does the plaster for pools when they are built and also re-plaster as they get older. Your Pool supplier should be able to suggest who may be the most reliable. yes,
You can use the same hole in the ground for both a vinyl liner pool and a gunite pool. You should not need a new hole dug.
Most recommendations for gunite are for a cure time of a week. While curing, the gunite should be wet down frequently, this will slow the curing and result in a stronger end product. I'm not familiar with the use of plaster in pool construction, so can't help you there...sorry. As a pool builder, we let our gunite cure for 28 days as that is how long it takes a 12" x 12' bond beam to reach 80% of its strength. For the plaster it depends on what type. Marcite and quartz application are applyed the pool is filled right away. For Pebble finishes, its applyed and then the next day its detailed and then filled. From there it takes a solid month keeping the total disolved solids (TDS) very low while the interior finish gives up moisture and calcium. During that time CYA, Salt and Calcium should stay out of the pool. I would recommend 28 days as well with a drip line that keeps the gunite wet. The whole idea is curing and not drying. For plaster the appropriate method of curing is first to make sure the heater is bypassed and then keep the pH between 6.5 and 7 for the first month while the plaster cures. Brush daily. I would use a quart per 10,000 gallons of a good phosphate based sequestering agent at the initial start up followed by 5 oz per 10,000 gallons each week. Do not add salt or hardness for the first month. Bring pH up after the first month and then bring hardness up after the first two months. Add salt month three if it's salt water.
A reputed recipe for pool plaster on a gunite pool is 1 part white cement to 2 parts white (preferably quartz or silica) sand. You should probably also add a bonding agent to the mix to make sure that your new plaster adheres to the old. All of these can be found at pretty much any home repair or hardware store. Mix the dry ingredients first and then make a shallow depression and gradually add water till you have the consistency similar to chunky peanut butter. Add the bonding agent per the instructions on the package and you are ready to go. Good luck!
The black (burn) marks show up on Gray plaster pools. White plaster pools will show up as a yellow or rust color. Remove the tabs and put them in a proper floating devise, the marks will go away in time. Try using wet and dry sand paper on the burn marks to reduce their visibility and roughened plaster.. additionally, tablets of any size should NEVER be placed or tossed into the pool or skimmer. K
You can, but if the plaster is uneven at all, you should nail on 1x4 first to mount the drywall onto.
with a plaster you should get one
Normally the interior doors are hung before the plaster goes up. Doors attach directly to studs in the walls, so they usually go up before the plaster. With wood floors, they are normally the last thing to be laid - even after the painting.