if your gears are sequential like in the old colomn shift cars you may actually have to manually line them up again.
there is no clutch cable. it has a hydraulic clutch. there will be a clutch master cylinder on the firewall near the brake M/C. a hydraulic hose will connect that to the clutch slave cylinder on or near the tranny. the slave cylinder pushes on a fork (lever) that disengages the clutch.
The left hand side handlebar lever is the clutch.
check oil level in your hydraulic clutch if you have a hydraulic clutch. If not and it is a cable clutch check and make sure your clutch is adjusted properly. It may not be disengaging when you pull the clutch lever.
on the clutch pedal lever
The cable, lever and actuator linkage need servicing.
Remove the bolt in the lever perch. For a clutch lever, loosen the cable enough to remove the broken lever and replace the new one. Adjust the clutch cable back and replace the bolt in perch. For the brake (disc brake)) lever, you simply remove the bolt and replace lever, put the bolt back in the perch and you're done. If you have drum brakes, it is the same as the clutch lever routine.
The term "pull in the clutch" means squeeze the clutch lever to the handle bar to disengage the clutch. Hope this helps.
For the brake it's pretty obvious. You don't want the brake to stay on when you aren't braking, so you need the spring to push it back. For the clutch it's the same but in reverse. You want the clutch to stay on, except for when you're depressing the lever. The spring keeps the clutch on, until you use the lever to overcome the spring. Then when you release the lever the spring kicks in again, engaging the clutch.
I have the same problem with a 91 Mazda 323 1600. After putting a new clutch in, the pedal had to go to the floor to engage the clutch. Sometimes the pedal sticks on the floor, but the car keeps going forward. The problem is the throw-out lever at the clutch. This is the lever sticking out of the gearbox/clutch housing on the engine. This throwout lever requires a pre-setting or pre-loading if you like, so that the lever movement caused by the slave cylinder pushes and disengages the clutch by continuing the preload pressure. This fault is caused by not making a note of the preload adjustment on the throw-out lever when fitting a new clutch.You should be able to take the end housing off the engine, although you may have to undo the engine mounting on that side and jack the engine up slightly. Then peek inside, find the adjustment mechanism and adjust as necessary. A clue that this is the problem, will be if you can grab the clutch lever where it meets the slave cylinder and wiggle it up and down. In short, setting the preload on the throw-out lever will fix this problem.
Shut the throttle. Pull in your clutch. Kick the gear lever down. Let out the clutch. More advanced: Shut the throttle. Pull in your clutch. Kick the gear lever down. Blip the throttle - let out the clutch.
hold the clutch lever in, rev the bike a little bit, then slowly release the lever until you start to move a little bit. when you want to shift, either mash the gears or i guess you could pull the clutch lever , shift into another gear, then release slowly.
hold the clutch lever in, rev the bike a little bit, then slowly release the lever until you start to move a little bit. when you want to shift, either mash the gears or i guess you could pull the clutch lever , shift into another gear, then release slowly.