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It depends on the year. The following is based on my first hand experiences, advice from Volvo techs and parts guys, and reading about these cars.

The first year was 1998; the body style is a minor update of the Volvo 850. With these cars, make sure the A/C is working; evaporators (the part inside the dashboard) is very expensive to replace. Clean cabin filters are important to extending the life of the evaporator.

The A/C clutches may exhibit failure by unlocking when underhood temperatures are very high, as in during hot weather. This is often misdiagnosed as an iced-up evaporator. Shutting the A/C off for 5 minutes will solve the problem in the short term, but eventually you'll need a new compressor (or at least a new magnetic clutch coil).

Also, automatic transmission failures are a bit of an issue with all front drive Volvos - fluid changes are important despite Volvo's advice that changes were not required. The upper engine mount (a rubber doughnut) can break down and cause vibration; a permanent fix is an aftermarket polyurethane part, but this material is harder and may result in more vibration inside the car than the factory part.

Front motor mounts (lower right side) can fail, but replacement need not be difficult or expensive. It is a reasonable DIY job.

Also, timing belts are quite straightforward to replace using instructions available on the web. Dealer flat rate is apparently 2.8 hours; a DIY'er can match this with good preparation. I expect that experienced techs do these routinely in less than 1 hour.

1999 was the first year of the electronic throttle module (ETM). Volvo used a module made by Magneti Marelli (along with a Denso air mass meter) from 1999 through 2001. Some early non-turbo 2002s also used this ETM before Volvo switched to Bosch parts. These early ETMs can exhibit failure, but they are subject to an extended 10 year 200,000 mile warranty for the Canadian and US markets. Revised software seems to have eliminated the problem. The cause has been explained to me as software that detected throttle resistance as dirt accumulated (or perhaps wear as well). The fix was to eliminate the resistance limits from the software. Volvo dealers may recommend a regular cleaning. DIY'ers should be careful to use throttle body cleaner, not carburetor cleaner.

2001 and newer cars were a new design except for the drivetrains (although automatic transmissions have been updated along the way. The newer platform is noted for weak swaybar endlinks and other minor suspension issues (clunking, etc.) Solutions include buying heavy-duty aftermarket endlinks.

Some owners complain of high maintenance and repair costs. The secret to Volvos in general is to maintain them by the book, and to keep them until they are truly worn out.

Turbos are generally just as reliable as non-turbo cars.

If you want all wheel drive, avoid the pre-2002 cars. Only the Haldex AWD systems are reliable enough to recommend.

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