You have to refill it and bleed all over again ,every line. Make sure you fill master as you bleed.
Usually that means that you have a failed master cylinder and it's sucking air. Often you can see the booster soaked with brake fluid. If the master cylinder ran dry at all, it has to be bled seperately.
If you allowed the master/reservoir to drain empty while the line was disconnected or installed the master dry, you may have to remove the master and bench bleed it first. Always keep the reservoir full during the process.
Easiest way for a clutch or brakes. Get a piece of rubber tubing that will fit over the bleeder screw. Loosen the screw, put the hose on it and the other end in a container with enough brake fluid in it to cover the end of the hose. With the master cylinder full, slowly step on the clutch pedal several times. Make sure the master does not run out of fluid. Before it runs dry the first time, the slave should be bled. Tighten the screw and refill the master.
Good time to replace all the brake fluid. Remove the brake lines from the Master Cylinder and pump the master cylinder dry. Add fresh brake fluid from an unopened can and bleed the master cylinder. Reinstall the brake lines and then bleed all brake lines until you see clean fluid. Keep adding fluid to the Master Cylinder until you are done.Good time to replace all the brake fluid. Remove the brake lines from the Master Cylinder and pump the master cylinder dry. Add fresh brake fluid from an unopened can and bleed the master cylinder. Reinstall the brake lines and then bleed all brake lines until you see clean fluid. Keep adding fluid to the Master Cylinder until you are done.
As your brake pads wear down the brake fluid level in your brake master cylinder will gradually get lower If you have checked each wheel to see if it is wet on the backside and they are all dry, the master cylinder may be leaking into the power booster. The only indication you might have is if the booster is rusting directly under the master cylinder.
You bleed the rear brakes the same way you bleed the front brakes. If you can't get brake fluid to come out the rear bleeders you may have a faulty master cylinder or the master was allowed to empty out the reservoir that feeds the rear and now it is air bound. Removing the master cylinder and bench bleeding the master may be what you need to do and don't let the reservoir go dry!
U need 2 fix the FLUID leak !! Either a bad Master Cylinder-wheel Cylinder-Calipher-or Brake lines THE Pedal goes 2 the floor because of AIR in the System & needa 2 Be Bled=& follow the CORRECT PATTERN for BLEEDING.depending on the Vehicle. AIR IS IN THE SYSTEM. CHECK HOSES, THE MASTER CLYDER, LINES,CALIPHER OR THE BOOSTER, THERE IS AIR IN THERE SO BLEED OUT! OR YOU WILL CRASH BECAUSE THE BRAKES DONT WORK FIX IT !! GO TO JUNK YARD AND BUY A MASTER CYLIDIER WITH THE BOOSTER
Dry cylinder has 2 definition 1 no fuel is getting to the cylinder 2 no oil getting to it
If you replaced the master cylinder, you have to bleed it first before bleeding the the lines and wheel circuits... BLEEDING THE MASTER CYLINDER ---"During this process, MAKE SURE THAT THE RESERVOIR DOES'NT RUN DRY OF BRAKE FLUID." 1. Disconnect the lines from the master cylinder and place a pan or rugs under the culinder. 2. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal and hold it down. 3. Block off the outlet ports with your fingers and have the assistant release the pedal. Make a tight seal with your finger, do not allow the cylinder to ingest air while the pedal is released. 4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 three or four times. 5. Connect the brake lines to the master cylinder and top up the fluid reservoir... Next step is bleeding the lines and wheel circuits. Start from the farthest, right R, left R, right F then left F.
First unhook the master cylinder from the clutch. Turn the master upside down so that the fluid will enter and exit from the top. With that done, get a bleeder, about forty bucks. Then, using the bleeder suck the fluid through the master, the line, the slave and out. Continue until you have no more bubbles. You should then try to compress the push rod on the master. If it is rock solid, hook it back up. If not continue bleeding. Once it is solid, hook everything back up. Start the vehicle in neutral and gently try to put it in reverse. If it grinds in the least, bleed again leaving everything where it is. If it continues to grind it wasn't bled properly when the master cylinder was upside down. Remove he master and start from the beginning. P. S. DO NOT LET THE RESERVOIR GO DRY WHILE BLEEDING! THIS IS CRUCIAL. YOU WILL ONLY ALLOW MORE AIR IN, DEFEATING THE ENTIRE PROCESS.
In most cases they leak hydraulic oil out the back of the cylinder. Crawel up and under the drivers side clutch pedal area and look for fluid leaking inside where the clutch actuator rod enters the back of the clutch master cylinder. It should be dry.
it gets dry