The radiator cap could be the cause of coolant reservoir overflow or backup. Have the cap checked to see if it is bad.
It could be a couple of things. The coolant system could be over full. There could be a clog in the radiator. Or possibly the thermostat but not likely. also, the ford coolant tank is pressure sealed, if the cap to the tank has a defective seal, it WILL overflow when you stop your car, or whenever the pressure builds
Could be bad thermostat or plugged coolant line
Could be thermostat not opening causing a back pressure
An old or non-working radiator cap.
It could be the coolant overflow tank that is leaking.
Transmission fluid, if you have a bad radiator.
There could be several reasons. Under normal operation, the vehicle will experience this as the coolant heats up and expands into the over flow. A bad water pump, low level of coolant, as well as a clogged radiator could also cause this problem.
/the water circulating noise could be low coolant in the system. If the coolant is bubbling in the overflow bottle, then check for a blown head gasket causing the noise.
A blown head gasket could allow coolant to enter the combustion chamber from the water jacket. The coolant probably is running out the exhaust on first start-up. More often, you will notice the coolant being pumped out of the overflow as the exhaust gas pressurizes the coolant. You should look for this symptom when the engine warms up. Coolant in the exhaust on start-up and then the coolant overpressure overflow from the expansion tank or radiator happening together is almost sure indication of the head gasket failure.
The description of the symptom could indicatev a head gasket leak allowing the pressure of the combustion chamber to intrude into the cooling system and forcing the coolant out.
That's a really good question Mine is doing that too. It's also overheating. Maybe we could collaborate for answers?
had a bad overflow tank that wouldn't hold pressure
Could be a leak in a radiator hose, or radiator. ==Answer 2, Another Possibility== It could also be the radiator cap pressure relief valve action which vents coolant and/or coolant vapor to the coolant overflow reservoir/tank when steam is created in the coolant passages in the engine block. When the engine is shut off, the residual heat in the block can cause the additional pressure and/or steam.j3h.
The flood's effect could have been delayed by this overflow basin.
Mine is making a similar noise. Steam is passing through the coolant overflow tube as soon as the motor is shut off. The tube is connected to a nipple just under the radiator cap and the tube travels to the bottom of the coolant reservoir. The coolant in the reservoir then bubbles
Coolant only moves from the overflow tank/container to the radiator when the engine is cooling. It flows the other way (into the tank) as the engine heats up and coolant expands. If coolant isn't moving into the radiator when the engine is cooling down there could be a couple of reasons. 1. The engine really never got warm enough to begin pushing coolant to the tank and the radiator is already full. 2. The radiator cap is faulty and should be changed. 3. If the coolant hasn't been changed for many years it's possible (though unlikely the hose linking the tank and radiator is plugged. Thoughts: Be sure you're adding a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water to the overflow tank, not just water. Note the coolant level in the tank with the engine cold then go for a drive. Check the level again. It should be a little higher. Let the engine cool and the level should be back to the original point. If that's the case you're good to go. If coolant is pushed into the overflow but the level doesn't drop again blame the radiator cap and get a new one. Cheers
fans not coming on when they are supposed to coolant might be too old or the wrong coolant water pump might not be working air pocket in coolant system coolant temp sensor faulty could be debris in front of radiator Also there is the fan circuitry under the coolant globe. In some cases I have seen that constant overflow has damaged circuits in the box and the unit will need replacement
The coolant sensor is in the overflow tank, make sure it is full to the cold line. If it still stays on the level sensor might need replacing
Ive had a similar problem with another car of mine. The solution was to run the car with the coolant cap open so the air could be pushed through the lines. Ideally you want to run with an open cap until your pump kicks in. This is the process you need to use when you replace a rad or drain all the lines. Don't be worried if you see coolant gushing out of the overflow. It takes about a minute then the overflow will level off and all the air bubbles will stop.
Sounds like a head gasket issue, or worse, your head could be cracked. Check your exhaust - that's probably where your coolant is going.
COULD BE ATF LEAK TRANNY FLUID GETS COOLED BY RADIATOR MAYBE BAD RAD. CAR RUNNING HOT? 91 Seville's use coolant tabs from factory, that can lead people to think they have engine problems. You should have your car a check by a mechanic who can use special tools to check for blown head gaskets or other problems.
Overheated. As to why, could be multiple causes, Overflow opens only when cap pressure exceeded. Check circulation first to ensure thermo is not stuck and water is circulating by squeezing top hose as it warms up, ensure fan is running and water level ok.
No. There is no spider bite that will literally kill you instantly. Some could kill you in a few hours, but not instantly.
I took this apart and found no sensor on the overlow what so ever. Could it be located somwhere else? was this a change over year? At the bottom of the overflow can (where you fill it up).