Three feet clearance is needed in front of electrical service equipment.
I don't know if you are trying to ask if you can run a 240V panel off a GFCI or run a 120 V sub panel off of a GFCI. Can you clarify please,,,Thanks
Junction box for what? Do you mean a sub panel?
Look to see if the 30 amp panel is fed with a two wire or a three wire. If it is a two wire then you are out of luck. If the panel is fed with a three wire then the panel should have the neutral terminated in the panel. It is this neutral that you need for 120 volt connections. You didn't state how many panel slots there are in the panel. If you are able install a 15 amp breaker into the panel and connect the wires going to the load. The black wire will go to the breaker and the white wire will go to the neutral bar in the panel.
Absolutely not. #2awg conductors are only good for about 100 amps depending on Cu or al. see nec table 310-16.
That could only happen if the neutral wire (white) becomes disconnected at either the panel, the meter base or the transformer.
In North America it takes two "hot" wires to obtain 240 volts.
there isnt a high leg in a three phase 480v panel only on 240v panels
I don't know if you are trying to ask if you can run a 240V panel off a GFCI or run a 120 V sub panel off of a GFCI. Can you clarify please,,,Thanks
Junction box for what? Do you mean a sub panel?
Whatever the market will bear. If a guy is charging too much, get someone else. The real issues are things like accessability and how much space is in your breaker panel and how large is the electric service into the house. If your breaker panel is full and you need more space the electrician may need to put in a larger panel. Too many questions, not enough information to answer your original question. Sorry.
240V appliances, such as range, dryer, air conditioner.
You have to find Line 1 and Line 2 to get your 240 volts. Both do not exist in a 115vac panel. If coming from a main panel, you would install a 60amp 2 pole breaker and then run heavier wire to the a/c unit. A sub-panel could be added if no spaces are left tin the main panel.
Does it have a big heavy wire, like your electric dryer, or a little light wire like your refrigerator. All electric cooktops that I know of are 240V. I have never seen one that is 120V.
Look to see if the 30 amp panel is fed with a two wire or a three wire. If it is a two wire then you are out of luck. If the panel is fed with a three wire then the panel should have the neutral terminated in the panel. It is this neutral that you need for 120 volt connections. You didn't state how many panel slots there are in the panel. If you are able install a 15 amp breaker into the panel and connect the wires going to the load. The black wire will go to the breaker and the white wire will go to the neutral bar in the panel.
Absolutely not. #2awg conductors are only good for about 100 amps depending on Cu or al. see nec table 310-16.
That could only happen if the neutral wire (white) becomes disconnected at either the panel, the meter base or the transformer.
Move things around until you have space for a double-pole breaker, which is required for 240V. Don't be stupid and connect 2 separate breakers in non-adjacent positions. It might work, and then again it might fry something too.