Had the mate go throughthe samething, so after a $600 quote from the dealership, I tried it myself.
Anyways, the best thing to do to get some decent work room is to remove the hood. Since it is lightweight and only held in place with an air lift and 6 10mm bolts it is simple to do, though a second set of hands is a big help.
Next, you want to remove the plastic engine cover/heat shield, remove the 4 13mm plastic nuts and slip it off to access the top of the engine.
After that, you will want to remove the large trapezoidal vacuum canister above the coils to get more room. If you accidentally pull the vacuum line from it, it'll be fine just reconnect it afterwards.
One more step that helped, but is potentially risky on older vehicles is to pull the PCV line assembly. On older cars, it can snap like a twig and leave you calling around to find the pricey pre-molded hose. Do this at your own risk and use good judgement beforehand. It was no problem with the one I worked on, but it may not be your case.
Now that you got access to the coil block, remove the 4 electrical connectors (2 on each side) and go ahead and pull the wires. If replacing the coil(s), make sure to label them in the same order with a paint marker or similar (save you a lot of headaches down the road). The plug wires are basically 4 long and 4 short ones with only like 1 or two oddballs so it might help to match lengths as you pull them.
Now that the coil block is pretty much freed, remove the 4 10mm bolts holding it down and carefully remove it from the engine compartment. From here you should see easy access to the sparkplugs. A littletip when installing new plugs in the rear is to use a swivel extension and don't use a plug socket with a rubber boot in it that could make the socket get stuck in the engine on the sparkplug (was a royal pain to retrieve, but problem was solved when I just used a regular 5/8" deep socket).
From here, you should be pretty much set, pull the old plugs and install new ones, then wires ad if necessary, coils. Don't forget to lubricate the threads of the plugs as well as gap them properly with a wire type gapper. Dielectric grease sould've come with your wires, make sure to use it as well. Also, the reccomended plugs for the 4.0L Northstar is AC Platinum's, I HIGHLY recommend using them.
Before putting everything back together, remember to test it first. Be sure anything that could fall into the engine or its components is secured and everything but the hood and engine cover is bolted down as well.
It should be .050
1 in each cylinder...........
The spark plug gap on a 96 Olds Aurora should be set at .050, and they should be torqued at 11 foot-pounds.
Is there spark at the plus? is there fuel pressure to the injectors?
remove the coil pack; use a jointed extension with sparkplug socket to reach plugs.
where would the spark plugs at on a Oldsmobile 1989 engine
check the wires, if they are crossed up you get bad ilding. my aurora was idling around 1500 rpm's, but after having all the spark plugs and boots replaced it went back to around 600...see if that helps
how do change the spark plugs and the coil pack on a 2000 Oldsmobile intrigue
When changing the spark plugs, a diagram comes in handy to ensure a person is doing everything properly. For this car, the spark plug diagram is found in the cars maintenance manual.
with a spark plug sockett
6 spark plugs 1 spark plug to every cylinder.