Assuming 2WD, since 4WD is quite different and uses sealed bearings for the front wheels. Remove tire. Remove callipers. Remove rotor. Note that most 2WD vehicles with front disk brakes use rotors that have the bearing race either pressed in or as an integral part of the rotor. Take extra caution when removing the rotor so that the bearings (inner and outer) are not damaged. Thoroughly wash the bearings and race in solvent and use compressed air to thoroughly blow out solvent, old grease and contaminants, taking extra caution to make sure you are able to re-install each bearing into it's original race. Make sure the bearing and race is cleaned and that all of the old wheel grease is removed. Inspect each bearing for pitting and heat discoloration. If any of the roller bearings or bearing races (inner or outer) are discolored (blue or black) or have any pitting, the bearing or race should be replaced. Slowly turn each roller so that you can inspect the entire surface. Using clean wheel bearing grease, force grease into the roller assembly, using sufficient grease and force that the grease fills the voids inside the bearing retainer. All surfaces of all rollers should be coated with a liberal amount of grease. Re-assemble the bearings into the race. If the inner wheel seal was damaged during disassembly make certain that it is replaced with a new wheel seal. Many of the more reputable shops will never re-use a wheel seal when re-packing wheel bearings. Make sure the axle spindle is clean and that brake dust has been removed so that no contaminants will get into the wheel bearing assembly when you put the wheel back together. Install the rotor assembly and tighten the wheel bearing to "feel". If you haven't done it before, make sure the bearing is tight enough that there is no "play" in the bearing and that the bearing still moves somewhat freely but with slight resistance. If the bearing is too loose it will pit and overheat. If it is too tight it will shatter and sieze. Make certain that you use a new cotter pin and trim it to the proper length and bend it so that it clears the dust cover. Reassemble the calliper assembly and put the wheel back on.
It depends what year they are and if they are 2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive.
Wheel bearings, main bearings, connecting rod bearings, cam bearings, axle bearings, carrier bearings, pinion bearings and so on, need to be more specific.
Remove the tire and wheel. Remove the axle end cap. Remove the wheel bearing seal. Remove the wheel bearing. Reverse the process to install the new wheel bearings.
You can use main bearings on a 1995 Chevy S10. The bearings can be purchased at most auto parts stores.
Yes it is . The only difference may be drum or disc brakes.
Assuming you have a 4+4, the front wheel bearings are a sealed unit and can not be lubed. If it is noisey or has play, the bearings must be replaced as a hub and bearing assembly. This part is available from your local auto parts store.
no
wil rims off a 2 wheel drive s10 truck fit a 4 wheel drive s10 truck
If that S10 is a 4+2, it is rear wheel drive.
what is the wheel base for 1985 s10 blazer
Yes, they will.
1991 S10 BLAZER 4DR NEED WHEEL BASE DIM