I'm assuming that the engine you describe is somewhat high compression and as such both the sparkplugs and the plug wires need to be in better than average condition or you may experience some misfiring Also, if you have an exhaust gas analyzer available, check to see if your engine is running a little lean at lower speed. BTW, at 4000 RPM it's also possible that you just can't TELL that the engine is misfiring any more. My contribution: On racing big blocks with misfires, I try to reduce the plug gaps, say to .035 or less and then later open them up if the problem is corrected. Don't use projected nose spark plugs in a high compession engine. Use the standard nose plug, I like NGK these days. I hate .060 gaps in a racing engine. I assume you have a quality coil and a good MSD ignition box. Racing engines like a lot of initial advance or fixed advance with a locked out distributor. Check from distributor rotor alignment when at firing position. The MSD website has a tech page to show how. Another thought is that holley carbs can be very rich at idle and part power and cause a rich misfire. Correcting this is a whole other subject.
have the alternator and the battery checked
The battery does not have sufficient voltage to start the car when it's cold. Have the battery checked out. If it still goes click click after running the car for a while, have the alternator checked also. A bad battery will not hold a charge and a bad alternator will not recharge the battery, (That is the reason to have the battery checked first). Make sure the connections at the battery are clean and tight.
Get the alternator checked before your battery goes dead.
Is it charging, if not have you checked wiring to alternator.
Have the battery checked.
you should go to a car shop and get your battery checked and ask how long should u charge your battery.. or if you should get a new battery
Have your alternator checked. It could also be a bad cell in the battery.
The battery warning light illuminates when the battery isn't being charged , get it checked out to find the problem and then repair.
Could be a warning that the alt. is not charging. So, if you do not want to end up with a dead battery somewhere, have the volts checked right from the battery.
You need to charge your battery or get a jump. Replace the battery or have it checked because it is dead.
Probably loose drivebelt. or alternator belt of it is seperate.
Have your alternator checked. That's what charges the battery.
Your battery has low voltage and needs recharged, check for loose battery cables, if the light stays on have your alternator checked.
have you checked the alternator??? that's the first thing that comes to my mind if your battery is being drained
When the battery does not start your car as it normally has, or the battery runs down overnight. If you suspect it is bad then have it checked at an auto parts store.
It is going to be one of a few things. First thing to check is the battery terminals. Look for loose or corroded terminals at the battery. If after cleaning them with a wire battery terminal cleaner brush, and tightening them it still will not start, have the battery checked to see if it is good. If the battery is good, then have the starter checked.
It indicates that your battery is not being charged and that you need to have the electrical system checked.
Stop driving until the charging system and battery have been checked for an overcharging condition.
1994 4.0 l at.ac fresh fuel, good compression, changed plugs and wires. checked cables to firing order,cleaned throttle body, will not fire. any ideas?
The alternator is over charging. you need to have the charging sytem checked.
This light is warning you that there may be a problem with your battery. Have it checked.
Then something is on pulling power from the battery. Check all lights and relays.
Then something is on pulling power from the battery. Any light on the vehicle or any relay that is stuck closed.