Insufficient vacuum to assist braking requirements resulting in a "hard" brake pedal.
Another very common symptom can be that Brake Fluid is disappearing from the Master Cylinder, with no sign of the leakage. It can be sucked past warn seals of the Master Cylinder and through the Booster, into the engine and burned.
A faulty power brake vacuum booster could do that.
Sounds like it could be a vacuum leak at the power brake booster Check the lines to booster and the check valve at the booster Could be a defective brake booster also
Could be a vacuum leak Could be a defective power brake booster Could be a bad check valve on booster
It could be a leaking vacuum hose to the power brake booster or the membrane in the booster could have a hole. When the brakes are applied, the booster is opened to the engine vacuum via the hose. The vacuum leak would then increase, causing the engine to stall.
Sounds like it could be a problem with the vacuum booster or vacuum supply to the booster Check for a vacuum leak Make sure the check valve on the booster is working Check the vacuum canister
Power booster is bad or the vacuum supply to booster is cut off.
Perhaps a vacuum leak at the power brake booster or the check valve on the booster.
Your power brake booster may be defective. You may have a vacuum leak or the booster itself could need replacing.
check to see if it holds vacuum. 1) Shut vehicle engine off 2) Step on brake pedal (should go down easily) 3) Step on brake pedal a 2nd time and it should be difficult to push, if working properly (holding vacuum). If pedal is difficult to push down the 1st time, booster is not holding vacuum. Could be the "one-way" valve on the booster is defective, or could be that the booster itself has developed a leak due to rust or corrosion.
Rough engine idle
Check engine vacuum and power brake vacuum booster. If the brakes work but just require extra effort to stop, it's a brake boost problem.
Could be a vacuum leak - perhaps bad brake booster Could be worn brake linings metal to metal