Your meaning is not clear. - If you are going to tap the threads in, use a 7/32 drill bit. If you want a hole that this bolt will slip through, use a 9/32 drill bit.
If you are going to tap that 20 UNC thread, then use a 7/32 drill bit. If you want a hole that the bolt will slip through, use a 9/32 drill bit.
drill 2 holes at each end of the bootlid to correspond to the threaded bolts on the spoiler then sit the spoiler in the holes and bolt from inside.
Motor oil in small amounts
Well your gonna have to have a new mount bolt. Drill it out so that the drill bit is the same size as the hole the bolt goes into. Snap the head off when you drill past thehead. The bolt should hand screw out. If not use vicegrips. Then put the new one in the same place. Should replace the mount aswell.
There should be a stud (not a bolt) threaded in to the head and the stud should have a thread sealant applied to the threads.
Cut the bolt head off with a cutting wheel then use a drill to drill out the bolt.
Cap screw
stud has all its length threaded and it is used with two nuts, but the bolt has one end closed and the other end is threaded ,it is used with a single nut.
NO it is not.
The best way is to use a drill bit for metal and drill a small hole in the bolt. then use an extractor to back the broken bolt out.
There are several options. -Bolt extraction kits, you can probably get one at your local autoparts store. Drill a hole in the bold and insert the extractor, turning counter-clockwise. You may need to tap it in with a hammer first. It's best to use a reverse-thread drill bit to drill the hole. They should be in the same section as the extraction kits. The advantage of the reverse-thread drill bit is that it turns counter-clockwise, the same direction you need to turn the bolt to get it out, thus the drill alone may pull the bolt out if the drill bit catches and the bolt is loose. Use caution when using the extraction kits though. They are brittle and if you overtorque it you can end up breaking the bit in the hole. Then you have a much bigger problem. -If enough of the bolt is above the surface, you can use a dremmel to cut a notch, then use a flat-head screw driver to turn the bolt out. -For really stubborn bolts, you can drill the bolt out completely and re-thread the hole. This should only be attempted if you have a drill press. If you are using a hand drill and eyeballing it you will probably end up messing up the hole and the threads. -Depending on the age and condition of the metal that the hole is in and if lock-tight has been applied to the bolt, heat may be used to loosen the bolt. Heat the area around the hole with a propane torch. -If all else fails, take it to your local machine shop and have them drill it out for you.
Take bolt apart take bolt head and clamp in a drill press use a 3/32 drill bit to drill it out shouldn't have to drill all the way out . Numrichs brownells and midway usa have the ejector the spring and the retaining pin
Not unless it was reasonably loose. Usually when faced with this, I drill into the bolt with a very hard drill bit a tiny bit thinner than the bolt - ie if it's a 3/8 bolt, I drill in first with a 1/8 drill to create a guide hole, then after with a 5/16 drill to cut right through, yet not harm the threads. You have to be very careful to stick to an exactly straight course. After the hole is cleared, I pull the threads left from the bolt out as far as I can, then use a 'clearance' tap of bolt size to re-tap the hole.