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Remove the tire and wheel. Remove the axle end cap. Remove the wheel bearing seal. Remove the wheel bearing. Reverse the process to install the new wheel bearings.
You do not have what is called a gimble bearing on a Volvo 280 drive, they are called gimble bearings on 290 and latter drives. The difference being that gimble bearings both bearings can be removed from the drive side after the upper drive assembly is removed. On a 280 you unfortunatly have what is called intermediate bearings where the aft one comes out the drive side, and the other comes out the engine side. If you have bad bearings, the engine has to be pulled to remove the engine side bearing. To grease the u joints (gimble) you would need to remove the upper drive assembly off the outdrive. unclamp the bellow and remove the upper drive along with the U joints. You can then grease the U joints. There is a zerk fitting on the bell housing that allows you to grease the intermediate bearings, but I was told not to do this as it could blow out the seals and cause more problems than it solves.
I posted this question and have since replaced the bearings. Since an answer was not posted I will answer it myself. It's not too difficult. You need a 32mm Socket to remove the retaining nut. An inverted star socket(similar to a reverse torx wrench)is needed to remove the bolts holding the bearings in place(I think it takes a #16 inverted star bit). You also need a hub puller to remove the bearing assembly from the drive shaft. Good Luck!
Remove the cap from the end of the hub. Inside, you'll find a large nut and a cotter key. straighten and remove the cotter key and remove the nut. The otter bearings will come out as you pull the rotor off. The inner bearings can also be removed once you pull out the seal. If you are having the rotors turned, you will need to drive out the race's. It is a good idea to go ahead and replace the bearings since your into it his far.
Remove wheel, remove the brake caliper and brake pads, Pull the dust cap. remove cotter pin. remove nut and washer. tilt the rotor back and forth to pop the bearings (front) remove rotor and pop the back bearings. This would be for a 2 wheel drive S-10.
you will have to remove the cir-clip to get full range of motion to roll the new bearings into place. if you haven't already, its usually a lot easier to remove the axle from the nuckle and disconnect the inner constant velocity joint by removing the torx bolts (i think about 6) around the joint so you can separate the whole drive shaft and bearings from the car.
Do I need any special tools to replace front wheel bearings on a Saturn 2002 L200?Also what is the procedure for doing so?
With the 98 Durango safely lifted, remove the front wheel. Remove the locking hub. The hub removal is different depending on the hub type. Remove the brake caliper. Remove the axle nut, and slide off the bearing housing. The inner and outer bearings and races should be replaced.
You have to pull the bearing assembly out. Be careful and do not let the cap covering the bearings come off.
Remove the wheel, remove the axle shaft, remove the hub nut, pull off the hub.. the bearings will come off at this point. Drive out the races with a race driver and install new races. Clean off the axle spindle ad run over it with some emery cloth. Pack the bearings in grease, install the larger bearing in the inner hub and drive in the new wheel seal. Mount the hub, install the outer bearing, secure with the nut and washer. Tight is tight.
On a 4-wheel drive it is free floating and on a 2-wheel drive you have to remove the axle nut and bearings. From what I have heard in the ford forums is the 4-wheel drive free floating can be hard to remove if they get rusted in place so be sure to have a rubber mallot on hand. I just replaced my front rotors on my 2-wheel drive and it was real easy to get off.
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