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Generally at 100,000 kms check your service manual or ask the local mits dealer to be exact.
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I just replaced the tming chain on Chevy 350 should new one have any slack on one side?
YES. but very LITTLE is normal.
Do 2006 and newer cr-v have a tming belt or chain?
They all have a timing chain.
1970 Chevy c10 tming?
8 degrees BTDC. 8 degrees BTDC. 8 degrees BTDC.
Did a tming change car still won't start?
If you mean you did a timing 'belt' change and still wont start, I tend to think your previous one broke ? If this is the case, its more than likely you have bent valves .. so do a compression test. If you didnt have a broken cam belt, recheck your timing marks and be sure you are not 108 degrees out
Does a 1994 Mazda mx6 have a tming belt or timing chain?
On a 1994 Mazda MX-6 : Both the 2.0 liter four cylinder engine and the 2.5 liter V6 engine have a timing BELT
Tming marks for 2002 Nissan Frontier?
It has a belt. The general rule for Nissans is 4 cylinder engines have a timing chain, and 6 cylinder engines have a timing belt. The 2002 Frontier follows this rule. Also note that most Nissan engines are "interference" engines, so follow timing belt service reccomendations.
Intermittent stall problem on a 1992 blazer 4.3 stalls at low idle it may start up or might have to squirt gas in carb then run at high rpm for time till it will run normal new fpump and filter.?
it could be that your distributer is not in the corect position. try loosening the distibuter just enought to twist. you will have to try either way(to you or back) but just a hair at a time. this will either speed up your idle revs or slow them down. set at a regular idle. also i suggest to put a tming light on the vehicle. sounds like a timing problem.
Setting TDC on a f150 4.9l stright 6 when timing mark is 180 degree from the TDC when timing mark is at TDC and piston down how do you get tming mark the same?
TDC is when the piston is at top dead center of the compression stroke. The easiest way to set it at TDC is to remove spark plug number one and insert a slim item such as a pencil or screwdriver into the spark plug hole and turn the crankshaft clockwise with a ratchet or breaker bar as you watch when the piston starts coming up. Remove the pencil or screwdriver and inseret your finger tip into the plug hole to feel for pressure (compression) building up. When you feel compression building up, remove your finger and re-insert the pencil or screwdriver to see when it reaches the top; the piston will be at TDC and the timing marks should be aligned. NOTE: The crankshaft rotates twice for each time the piston is at TDC.
Is it worth it getting timing belt package by the dealerships?
answer THE PACKAGE IS PRETTY GOOD BUT YOU HAVE TO TELL THEM ABOUT BELT TOO,ADVISE THEM NOT TOO TIGHT OR ELESE IT WIND,OTHER THAN THAT ANY DEALERSHIPS KNOWS THEIR STUFF YOUR CAR WILL LAST LONGER BECAUSE NOT EVEN INCHES AWAY FROM TIMNG IT WILL LAST LONGER,SPEND ONE SAME PRICE OR TRIPLE LATER,SO MIGHT AS WELL GO WITH THEM IT REALLY SAVES MONEY FOR LONGER INVEST,OR TRADE IT FOR A NEW CAR EVERY TEN YEARS, OTHER THAN THOSE YOU CAN DO EVERYTHING BY THE BOOK,AND YOU KNOW ONE MORE THING IT DOESNT LOOSE YOUR CAR PULL SPECIALLY ON FREEWAYS,WHICH IS PARTS WILL LAST MORE LONGER,BECAUSE IF YOUR TIMING AND VALVE ADJUSTMENTS WHICH IS BOTH IN TMING SYSTEM,THAT IS THE ONLY CRUCIAL,OTHERWISE ITS ALL ON YOU IT SAVES AROUND 1,200 A YEAR,HOPE IT HELPS!
How do you replace tming belt on a 1990 BMW 525i?
Replacing the timing belt on this vehicle will take about 8 hours and will involve a lot of information found in a repair manual. If you don't have one I recommend the Bentley manual. You will need a good set of tools especially a torque wrench. Before you begin you will want to buy coolant, a new timing belt, a new timing belt tensioner and possibly a new water pump. BMW recommends you change the water pump every 120K miles and the timing belt every 60K miles. If you just bought the car I would suggest changing them both. You start by disconnecting the battery and draining the radiator. Remove the hood. Remove the radiator and hoses. Remove the belts to the AC compressor, power steering pump and alternator. Remove the clutch fan. Remove the metal coolant tube. Remove the distributor cap and rotor and the plastic cup behind the rotor. Remove the crank position sensor and the oil pressure sender. Carefully remove the wire holder on the front of the lower timing belt cover. Set the motor to TDC with the timing mark on the balancer. Use a chain wrench and remove the crankshaft pulley and the balancer without turning the crankshaft. Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers. Remove the old belt tensioner and dont lose the spring and plunger. Remove the timing belt without turning the crank or cam shafts. Now is time to replace the water pump. Use the torque specs from your manual when installing the bolts. Put the new belt on and align the marks on it with the marks on the cam and crank pulleys. It can be difficult to get the belt around the crankshaft because there's a metal cover below it and it's hard to see under the geared pulley. Clean under it as best you can to get any pieces of rubber from in the gears or the belt will never go on correctly. Once you feel you have the belt on correctly put the new tensioner on and torque to the specs in your manual then turn the crank clockwise 2 complete rotations and make sure the belt marks still align with the marks on the cam and crank pulleys. If not, take the belt and tensioner off and start again. When you do get the belt on correctly ( whew ) reinstall the lower and upper timing belt covers and reassemble everything in reverse order from there. A couple of helpful hints 1) GET A MANUAL. 2) It is a good idea to change the front cam shaft seal and gasket since you are in there anyway. You will need a reverse star socket ( I think its 17mm but I'm not positive ) 3) Get the correct type of coolant - no phosphates. 4) You will need to burp the cooling system using the 8mm bolt on top of the thermostat housing, the procedure is in your manual. 5) Be super careful with the plastic wire holder that holds the cables to your crank position sensor and oil sender, it will be brittle and break easily. 6) When removing the hood mark the hood and mounts on the hinges so you can easily realign it when you put it back together. 7) It's up to you but on my personal car I cut the hose going to the windshield washer nozzles when removing the hood. Then put a plastic connector to reconnect the hose ends when I reinstalled the hood. Good luck with this project.
How do you repair a 2001 Altima GXE intake manifold gasket?
Do not remove the cylinder head. The intake Gaskets can be done in about five hours. It is not an easy repair and I do not recommend trying this repair unless you have above average mechanical skills. It's a lot of nuts and bolts. Mainly 10, 12 and 14 millimeter.Pull Fuel pump fuse and depresurize fuel system.Disconnect negative battery cable.Remove air cleaner housing with hosesRemove all bolts you can access on top of manifold, which are all 10 and 12 millimeter.Remove EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) tube) 24 mm or 7/8".From underneath the vehicle remove two 14 mm bolts on right side manifold to block support (black 1/2 diameter, approx. 8 " long) and one 12 mm bolt at starter on left side (air flow meter support bracket).Now the intake will be in two pieces (Pry the two pieces apart with a wood stick) the lower intake gasket is reusable if your'e careful. Push the lower plenum towards firewall as far as possible, this will leave you just enough room to get all of the lower bolts out with 12mm socket with rachet to remove all the intake to head bolts.I recommend felpro gasket (under $10.00).On this particular job reassembly is much quicker than disassembly. The hardest part is finding all the bolts that you need to take off. But under no circumstances should the head be removed for just an intake gasket.** *** **** this is a bad answer****I have no idea how but I had mine done today and it was 680.00 through a dealership and 490.00 through a non dealership and the sad part is, the part was only 10.00, it was a seven hour labor job. good luck.HERE IS A WAY THAT MIGHT WORKI'm working on mine right now. I've tried everything, but as far as I know you have to take the head off. The intake manifold and intake manifold collector can be taken off after you take the head off.1) You first need to relieve the fuel pressure by pulling the fuel pump circut braker and then you start the car. This should only take a second or two then your car will die. Now you fuel pressure is relieved.2) Disconnect the negative cable from you battery.3) Remove fuel lines from the fuel rail. Vacuum lines. Electric connectors from around the engine head, and throttle cables. Sparkplugs and cables Look around I might of missed a couple of things.4) Then you need to turn the engine to Top Dead Center. A manual will tell you how to do that. Like a Haynes repair manual.I'm just guessing what comes next because i havn't gotten that far, but i think you just need to remove the bolts holding the head to the engine. You might need to support the engine after you take some bolts out. a jack underneath the would do the trick.After the bolts are out you should be able to lift the head intake manifold and intake manifold collector out of the engine compartment as one. Then it is just a matter of finding which bolts hold the intake manifold and intake manifold collector each other and the head.Scrape of the old gasket put a new gasket on, and reverse the process.REMEMBER. THERE ARE 2 INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKETS. AN UPPER AND LOWER MANIFOLD GASKET.you should get gaskets to replace the intake and head gaskets. Plus any gaskets that might have been removed while you were working on your car.NEVER REUSE OLD GASKETS. IN A DAY OR TWO YOU WILL BE TEARING APART YOUR CAR BECAUSE YOU HAVE A LEAK SOMEWHERE AND YOU DIDN'T GET NEW GASKETSHead does not need removal. Un-bolt the intake and push it back far enough to sneak the old gasket out... it should not rip or stick to the head. Inspect that the head is in fact clean, place new gasket in and bolt it back up. It did take me about 6.5 hours never having done it before.Do thisThe previous guy is right. Do Not remove the head! Tming chain is hell to catch back on a Nissan and it uses two (2). I just did mine last week. I found that the best way is 1. Remove the fuel injector rail by pulling he two 12mm bolts.strip off anything on top of the intake including the trottle linkage and cable mount. Also remove the pancake looking device connected to the EGR valve by the vacuum hose.Disconnet the battery terminals2. From underneath Remove the starter completely. You could leave it under there but remove it from the transmission housing. This will require you pulling out the airfilter box and mass flow sensor and intake hose.Remove the passenger side axle completely and the axle support housing (3 bolts)Remove the knock sensor one 12mm boltNow you have access to all of the intake's lower 12mm bolts.The one behind the power steering pump is major hell to get out and to get back in. You will need ratchet wrenches for this job. Dont even try manual wrenches. Get a long reach extension magnet or pickup tool . It will help you with position bolts back into tight spaces. If you have the time remove the power steering pump. It will make the job easier but not necessary.Pull the curved bar (bracket under neath which bolts the intake to the engine blockYou will need a 1/4" drive ratchet and short 1/4" sockets to pull some of the intake's upper 12mm bolts. Nothing else will work. You will notice that the intake to cylinder head bolt-up is done mostly with 12mm bolts , except for the opposite 2 upper corner points which uses a threaded stud and a nut. remove the nuts.Unscrew the large intake pipe from the intake that comes from the front of the engine with a wrench.Even though you have all of these bolts and nuts out, it is still difficlut to slide the intake far enough back to slip in the gasket. What you will have to do is use a reversed torque or even a small 5 mm socket and unscrew at least one or both threaded studs from the cylinder head. Trust me they will pull easily. (They use threaded studs to allign the gasket properly) Then using a large prybar pry the intake away from the head and slide the gasket in. Immediately allign one of the upper corner holes and screw back in the threaded stud. Do the same for the next corner.From here on it is easy. You put all of the bolts back in but be sure to tighten the head from inside out.
