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ignition is sticking and let me guess it was rolling try a parkin brake

I am having the same problem. I don't know the answer yet, but I know that the response above is insulting. I can tell you that it, in my case and possibly yours, is not the key switch, the ignition switch, the solenoid, or the voltage regulator.

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Q: Why did your 88 ford bronco ll try to start itself with ignition in the off position and no key in ignition transmission in first gear?
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I have replaced the ignition coil ignition module the distributor cap and the rotor and my 1979 full size Bronco still won't start No fire to the coil can be detected?

You didn't mention whether you've changed the coil wire itself. If it's faulty, you'll get no spark anywhere. Also, the power supply to the coil or module could be at fault.


Key is stuck in the ignition of 94' Chevy blazer in the on position the key turns on but wont turn off to take key out..HELP?

The gear mechanisms in the steering column may have busted.. also you can try to rotate the steering while,if this doesn't help do it with pair of pliers..got it?!no?!call a locksmith.... Locksmith reply: You can use the pliers to turn it back to the off position but the ignition will need to be replaced. It's pretty common on GM vehicles. Most the time it is just the lock itself that is causing the problem.


Where is ignition coil igniter on 1987 b2200?

located in the distributor itself, follow wires coming from coil to distributor


What is an ignition switch box?

Ignition Switch Box or Ignition Switch Removal & Installation 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the steering column shroud and lower the steering column. 3. Detach the ignition switch electrical hardness connector. 4. Remove 2 nuts retaining the ignition switch to the steering column housing. 5. Lift the ignition switch upward to disengage the actuator rod from the switch and remove the switch. To install: > When installing the ignition switch, both the locking mechanism at the top of the column and the switch itself must be in the LOCK position for correct adjustment. To hold the mechanical parts of the column in the LOCK position, move the shift lever into PARK (with automatic transmissions) or REVERSE (with manual transmissions), turn the key to the LOCK position, and remove the key. New replacement switches, when received, are pinned in the LOCK position by a metal shipping pin inserted in a locking hole on the side of the switch. 6. Engage the actuator rod in the ignition switch. 7. Place the ignition switch on the steering column housing and loosely install 2 retaining nuts. 8. Move the switch up or down along the column to locate the mid-position of the actuator rod lash, then tighten the retaining nuts to 47-64 inch. Lbs. (5-7 Nm). 9. Raise the steering column into position at instrument panel. Install steering column shroud. 10. Connect the negative battery cable. 11. Remove the locking pin, connect the battery cable, and verified that the engine will only crank in PARK and NEUTRAL. Also check to make certain the start circuit cannot be actuated in the DRIVE and REVERSE positions.


89 Jeep Cherokee Laredo Ignition key stuck in on position This is the second time last time cost 150 then after the warranty was up got stuck again?

In my case it was the ignition switch itself had overheated and seized up. Replace the switch (have to lower the column, disconnect the wiring plug from the switch, and remove/replace the switch.) Clean all connections to the switch, make sure they're connected solidly and not heating up again.

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I have replaced the ignition coil ignition module the distributor cap and the rotor and my 1979 full size Bronco still won't start No fire to the coil can be detected?

You didn't mention whether you've changed the coil wire itself. If it's faulty, you'll get no spark anywhere. Also, the power supply to the coil or module could be at fault.


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A position, by itself, has no dimension.


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I have an old Chevelle that will fire but immediately stop when you release the key Any Ideas jfisher450msncom Thanks?

It's probably either the keyswitch or the ignition coil resistor (if it uses one) It could also be a coil connector or faulty wire. I'd also check the two small wires that are bolted to the coil on the positive side. One is hot only when the ignition key is in the start position. The other is hot only when the ignition key is in the run position. Check to see if you have voltage there with the key in the run position, if you don't, check continuity of the wire itself, then check the ignition switch, wiring harness plug (drivers side, just below brake master cylinder) and everything else in the ignition circuit.


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