ignition is sticking and let me guess it was rolling try a parkin brake
I am having the same problem. I don't know the answer yet, but I know that the response above is insulting. I can tell you that it, in my case and possibly yours, is not the key switch, the ignition switch, the solenoid, or the voltage regulator.
You didn't mention whether you've changed the coil wire itself. If it's faulty, you'll get no spark anywhere. Also, the power supply to the coil or module could be at fault.
The gear mechanisms in the steering column may have busted.. also you can try to rotate the steering while,if this doesn't help do it with pair of pliers..got it?!no?!call a locksmith.... Locksmith reply: You can use the pliers to turn it back to the off position but the ignition will need to be replaced. It's pretty common on GM vehicles. Most the time it is just the lock itself that is causing the problem.
located in the distributor itself, follow wires coming from coil to distributor
Ignition Switch Box or Ignition Switch Removal & Installation 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the steering column shroud and lower the steering column. 3. Detach the ignition switch electrical hardness connector. 4. Remove 2 nuts retaining the ignition switch to the steering column housing. 5. Lift the ignition switch upward to disengage the actuator rod from the switch and remove the switch. To install: > When installing the ignition switch, both the locking mechanism at the top of the column and the switch itself must be in the LOCK position for correct adjustment. To hold the mechanical parts of the column in the LOCK position, move the shift lever into PARK (with automatic transmissions) or REVERSE (with manual transmissions), turn the key to the LOCK position, and remove the key. New replacement switches, when received, are pinned in the LOCK position by a metal shipping pin inserted in a locking hole on the side of the switch. 6. Engage the actuator rod in the ignition switch. 7. Place the ignition switch on the steering column housing and loosely install 2 retaining nuts. 8. Move the switch up or down along the column to locate the mid-position of the actuator rod lash, then tighten the retaining nuts to 47-64 inch. Lbs. (5-7 Nm). 9. Raise the steering column into position at instrument panel. Install steering column shroud. 10. Connect the negative battery cable. 11. Remove the locking pin, connect the battery cable, and verified that the engine will only crank in PARK and NEUTRAL. Also check to make certain the start circuit cannot be actuated in the DRIVE and REVERSE positions.
In my case it was the ignition switch itself had overheated and seized up. Replace the switch (have to lower the column, disconnect the wiring plug from the switch, and remove/replace the switch.) Clean all connections to the switch, make sure they're connected solidly and not heating up again.
if it is an automatic it should have a dipstick on the drivers side of the engine towards the rear of the engine and if it is a manual you fill it from a plug on the transmission itself
the sensor that tells your engine when the clutch is engaged will be located somewhere on the transmission itself depending on the year. my 96's was right on top under the battery.
You didn't mention whether you've changed the coil wire itself. If it's faulty, you'll get no spark anywhere. Also, the power supply to the coil or module could be at fault.
A position, by itself, has no dimension.
The location of all transmission fill locations (if your unable to find a plug on the transmission itself) is where you check your transmission fluid dipstick. Pour fluid down the very small drain with a small funnel slowly. Check your level then add the appropriate amount. Start your engine (to warm it up because it is much thicker) and fill until fluid is at the max level. Never overfill transmission fluid.
Yes, you can crack the transmission pan before damaging the transmission.
It is actually inside the transmission itself. You get to it be removing the transmission pan.
on the side of the transmission itself.
It's probably either the keyswitch or the ignition coil resistor (if it uses one) It could also be a coil connector or faulty wire. I'd also check the two small wires that are bolted to the coil on the positive side. One is hot only when the ignition key is in the start position. The other is hot only when the ignition key is in the run position. Check to see if you have voltage there with the key in the run position, if you don't, check continuity of the wire itself, then check the ignition switch, wiring harness plug (drivers side, just below brake master cylinder) and everything else in the ignition circuit.
Not by itself, it requires an ignition source.
It is in the transmission itself.
Under the car, on the transmission itself