One of the most common problems causing a riding mower not to start or even crank over is the safety switches. Make sure that the deck is all the way up. Make sure the blade lever is not engaged. You have to have the clutch/brake pedal all the way down. And, you have to be sitting on the seat. If any of these safety switches is not making contact or you have them in the wrong position it will not start. There also may be a fuse in the small battery wire that could be blown.
Probably alternater if the battery is less than 5 years old, may be the battery, may be both, may be neither.
try up near the headlight or back near the battery/solenoid... I believe that there's what looks like a little fuse box under the plastic behind the headlight/below the bars. Think of places where a fuse would be safe and look there if neither of the prior suggestions work. Good luck!
Neither, it is a power source providing the energy to make the device work.
When a vehicle won't start check the battery first. If it is not the battery check the gas. IF it is neither of those it is best to call a mechanic.
Really neither.
When a car won't start the first thing to check is the battery. If it is not the battery then check the gas. If neither are the issue call a mechanic.
To reset electric windows on a Peugeot 307, just disconnect the battery for a while. Following the battery disconnect, neither of the electric windows will operate.
Due to the chemical compositions of batteries (most batteries contain a form of acid which reacts to create electricity) neither the battery charger nor the battery is likely to produce CO (Carbon Monoxide)
The first law of thermodynamics can be used to explain the operation of a battery. The law states that energy can neither be created nor destroyed. This can be used to explain how the energy of a battery is converted from chemical to electrical energy.
It could be a defective battery or starter. However, if I understand the meaning of "...JUST CLICKED ONCE..." I suspect that it may be neither the battery or the starter!!! If the battery is good, and takes and HOLDS A FULL CHARGE, the problem is "downstream" of the battery. However, from your description of charging all day, driving a short distance, and then having the problem suggests a battery at the end of it useful lifetime. Battery life end is often exhibited by taking a charge, BUT NOT being able to hold that charge for any significant amount of time. First, I suggest that you have the battery checked [usually free at most auto supply stores] to make sure that it has not failed, or is in the process of failing. If the battery checks bad, replace it. If the battery proves to be good, then the cause obviously is something else. Corrosion on the battery terminals, on the cable clamps which attach to the terminals, or INSIDE [BETWEEN the cable and the clamp or connector] those connectors and/or those at the other ends of the cables, or the connections at the other ends can cause the symptom you describe. I have observed this phenomenon more than once. For some reason, unknown to me, a corroded connection CAN allow just enough electrical current to pass to cause enough movement inside the starter SOLENOID or sometimes the starter, to create just ONE SINGLE CLICK, and then conduct no more. The starter SOLENOID can cause the same symptom, as well as the starter, BUT I suggest TESTING all BEFORE buying/replacing anything, in order to not waste money replacing good components. IF you insist on the "shotgun" method of replacing parts, one at a time until the problem goes away, I suggest this order of replacement: 1. Battery cables, and any other similar heavy cables between the battery and the starter. 2. Starter solenoid. 3. The battery. 4. The starter. If you can afford it, it would be much quicker and more effective, and possibly less expensive in the long run, to take your vehicle to a QUALIFIED mechanic, or automotive electrical technician [he or she is qualified to quickly make an accurate diagnoses]. j3h.
I'm sorry if this sounds silly, but did you put the battery in backwards?
Solar Batteries come in 3 distinctive types.Flooded lead acid,Gelled lead acid (aka gel batteries),and AGM lead acid (aka AGM batteries).Neither gelled or AGM batteries are designed to leak. However, if a gelled battery is charged in an inverted state, it can leak the electrolyte. An AGM battery never leaks.Flooded batteries however, can pose a problem. When a flooded battery is discharged and frozen, it can burst the container, allowing the acid to spill out as it thaws. This can cause both a environmental spill, and cause corrosion to the electrical equipment surrounding the battery installation.For this and many other reasons, many choose the more efficient, safer, and maintenance free AGM battery design indoors. Even when the inspector doesn't demand it.