Yes, the 1971 headers should work well on any head for a Gen 1 (pre-LT-1) Chevy small block. Header leaks are a common problem with all headers mating to all heads on any engine. The solution is to make sure that the headers that you buy are of a thick enough guage steel (usually 16 guage or thicker is best; and thicknesses are greater the smaller the number, so 14 guage is thicker than 16 guage) and that the flange is also thick enough (usually around 3/8" or thicker.) The flange thickness should help prevent warpage leaks and the tube thickness should prevent weld and stress crack leaks. Weld leaks usually occur when the tubing is thin because it is harder to weld thinner metal (turn up the heat and the weld pierces the tube, turn it down and the weld is weak, so thicker metal equals better weld) and stress cracks occur when heating and cooling a metal repeatedly, as this hardens the metal and causes it to be less pliable and easier to crack/harder to bend. The other considerations are torque pattern of the header bolts (nuts if your head has header studs) and gasket material and prep work. The head itself may have to be machined if it is an older/used head to ensure the mating surface is flat. The header and head should be thoroughly cleaned before placing the gasket or gasket sealant and you should follow header manufacturer instructions for 1) whether you need sealant, 2) what thickness and material the gasket should be (whether the engine is supercharged in any way affects this as well,) and 3) what the torque pattern and tightening spec's are for your headers (there is a specific order you MUST follow for tightening header bolts/nuts and a specific torque to tighten them to; often tightening is done in stages where you must tighten each bolt/nut in a specified order/pattern to a certain torque, then you must repeat the pattern of tightening again, and sometimes yet again, tightening slightly more each time to exact torque specifications each time to prevent warping the header flange by over-tightening one spot on the flange at a time.) If you follow all of these instructions you SHOULD not have any header leaks. There is always the question of quality though so I make no guarantees, but the horsepower and torque gains from using headers over stock exhaust manifolds is undeniable! I hope this helps you!
Greyrat70
This is one of the few applications where you are going to need to order your headers for that particular car. It is very tight and generic 350 headers are not going to fit. You will also probably need to have the collectors welded to your exhaust pipes to ensure you don't have exhaust leaks getting inside the car.
No there is not, but that don't mean you don't have a leak somewhere. That is a old truck.
Seems the flexpipe leaks at the ends...
Fuel delivery problems. Spark/ignition issues. Vacuum leaks. Exhaust restrictions (bad cat).
Most connections / joints between parts have a gasket to prevent leaks. So a failed gasket is a typical cause of leaks, including where the exhaust pipes connects to the exhaust manifold.
The most likely cause is an exhaust leak or a cracked exhaust manifold. While it is also possible that there is a problem with the Camry's catalytic converter, check to see if there are any leaks from the exhaust or any problems with the muffler first.
Exhaust leaks close to the engine.
Check for exhaust leaks, test oxygen sensor operation, replace the catalytic converter.Check for exhaust leaks, test oxygen sensor operation, replace the catalytic converter.
I would start by checking any leaks in your exhaust and fuel filter area, if there is any leaks throughout the exhaust the smell of gasoline or exhaust may come through into the interior.
Some of the problems with the 2010 bmw series 3 are engine knocks, exhaust system, steering noises, and transmission leaks. Most of the problems associated with this model have been fixed through a series of recalls.
Intake manifold leaks will cause the engine to idle rough and get poor fuel economy. An exhaust manifold will have no symptoms other than the sound of the leak.
That usually indicates a lean condition. You could check around the engine for vacuum leaks, fuel delivery issues, or possibly valvetrain problems.