The anti theft device located in the key chip/security system, is supposed to shut down the starter and the fuel pump if the wrong key is used. Either your Anti theft is messed up or your key isn't allowing the proper code for the fuel pump. I had the same problem with a '96 monte. Bypassing the security system is not a very good option. The VAT actually kills the ICM in the car not shut down the fuel pump like most people think. Your best bet is to either get a new key made (about $40) or find out what your key resistor OHM is and then placing a resistor of matching value on hte wiring between the ignition and the security box. That is what I ended up doing and now it works fine with a non resistor key.
Bad starter solenoid?
== == Try tapping on the solenoid(smaller cylinder attached to starter) while someone tries to start it. If it starts then the solenoid is bad and the entire starter solenoid needs to be replaced.
either clean and tighten cable connections or get battery tested. if not the battery, it is the solenoid or the starter If it is clicking and not starting at first, but starts after a few tries, its your starter taking a dump. Replace it.
Probably a stuck solenoid.
Either the ign. switch is faulty, or the starter is faulty Or the starter solenoid is stuck closed, so the starter is constantly engaged and getting voltage from starter relay. If so you would need to replace the solenoid.
It's your starter solenoid. Toys are hard to replace just the solenoid. replace the starter!!!!!
The word, 'Solenoid' defines a shape, which turns out to be cylinder-shaped. Solenoid is an adjective . . . that means that it modifies a noun. The noun in this case is coil: As in 'solenoid coil' which is cylinder-shaped. In a car, the solenoid coil, or just 'Solenoid' pulls in the electric contactor on a car's starter to turn the starter. After the car starts, the solenoid releases the contactor to where it will be ready for the next engine startup.
disconnect battery. from underneath disconnect solenoid wire and battery cable from starter solenoid. remove starter motor bolts. remove starter motor. installation is the reverse but be sure to place the starter shim between the starter motor and the engine or you will get noise during starts.
Usually one of three reasons. Starter is staying energized from starter switch or starter solenoid is bad internally or bendix gear on the end of the starter is not retracting. Tests: "bump" the starter with a momentary pulse of the key. If it continues to crank after releasing the key it's electrical. If not then probably gear is stuck or damaged. Check gear at flywheel. Should slide in and out of engagement freely. If problem is electrical then locate starter engagement wire at solenoid. And when motor starts check for battery voltage at that wire when disconnected. If it has voltage then suspect switch. If not then check for voltage at solenoid terminal. If voltage then replace solenoid or starter if integral.
The soleonoid on the starter is bad. When you buy a new starter it comes with the solenoid. Try tapping on the starter with a hammer if it starts after that then this is your problem
Every car with an electric starter has a starter solenoid. That is how cars work. When you start the car, only a trickle of electricity goes through the wire. That trickle of electricity goes to the solenoid. That trickle of electricity tells a magnet, "Get busy." The magnet closes a switch. The switch completes a circuit between the battery and the starter. Then the starter engages and your engine starts. That switch is your solenoid. If you find your starter, you can trace the wire back to the switch. You will see where another wire from that point attaches to the battery. Now you know the location of your solenoid.
The problem is almost definitely your neutral safety switch. When you jump the solenoid you are bypassing it. The problem is your starter is going and needs replacement