Chevrolet

low refrigerant.

You will need to be more specific with your question. What exactly needs to be fixed? The numbers won't roll or the speed is not displaying? You will need to be more specific with your question. What exactly needs to be fixed? The numbers won't roll or the speed is not displaying?

remove the manual locking hub with an Allen wrench. there will be a ring in a recess at the lip of the hub, using a small flat head screwdriver, pry the ring up and pull it out. after that you can pull out the 4x4 hub and you will see the a large nut with 4 notches in it, this requires a special socket to remove. there will be a flat washer with holes cut in it, this will slide out and you will see another larger nut, remove that and you will pull out the wheel bearings with the hub.

You'll need to purchase a brake module. There are several types, and all come with complete installation instructions.

Remove the retaining ring from the top of your 1977 Chevrolet pickup truck ignition key tumbler. Slide the ignition key tumbler out. Remove the wiring harness from the end of the key tumbler.

you must drive the roll pin out where the line goes into the slave cylinder its a real small pin. can use a small punch or nail to remove.

towed as in by a wrecker or as in behind a motorhome.

change most of the rubber engine parts, vacuum lines, belts, hoses, fuel pump, carb kit, the rubber gas line on top of the rear tank and the rubber line going to the generator. At the steps on the passenger side middle there is a rubber line connection the fuel filter from the electric rear pump, be sure and change the filter and the hoses connecting it. Check the alternator bearings, water pump bearings and seal, battery connections as well as the fuse holder connections on the firewall under the front hood. the clips holding the fuses can lose connection with the fuses from corrosion. Watch for the rearend seal at the pinion leaking. All these 454's on RV's have a hot of header heat and burn up the exhaust manifold gaskets, there was a ducting mod you could make to direct air to the engine sides that helps to keep the manifold gaskets from burning out. The best gaskets to use are the Victor blue ones that cost about 25 bucks but they last many years. cheap ones won't last. on the spark plug wires, use a quality set and reuse the metal shields over the spark plug ends, cheaper wires will melt or turn to puddy. Carry a spare rotory and ignition module with the heat paste for the Chevy dist.

always check the tire pressure and watch for tire cracks on older motorhomes. always inflate the front air bags, you will puncture them if you run them without air. all these P-90 chassis are overloaded when all the water and fuel as well as food and gear is loaded. You have to have the airbags working for the load you carry when loaded.

If you pulll a trailer, check the bolts attaching the hitch to the frame.

Find all the grease points in the front end and driveshaft, listen for viberations in the drive line, that's usually a u-joint going bad.

check the fan clutch, they go bad over the years and changing the water pump at the same time as the belts is a good idea. Use the heavest duty thermostatic cycling clutch you can buy, anything else will cost you mileage or over heat the engine. The fan clutch is critical to the dash ac working correctly.

there are actually 4 o2 sensors. two before cats and two after . two in each cat.

There are two on the 6.5 the one for the gauge is on the left head between 1&3 cylinder. the one for OBC is in the thermostat crossover tube.

Try the MAP Sensor

It is not a bib deal but the problem is that ther is not enough gasoline going through the tbi and it's hoses. I think the hoses or the actual tbi is cloged with some sort of debri. You should take out the tbi and its hoses and clean both of them very good. Hopefully the garbage in the tbi and/or the hoses would have came out! If you have any more questions or if what i said does not work,

Do you mean to change just 1/2 of a main bearing, the one that is easily removeable from the main cap? That's not something you want to do. If you're looking for a way to change the bearings without pulling everything apart there is a special tool made called (believe it or not) a "Sneaky Pete." I know the tool company Lisle makes the tool.

You should be able to find a shop manual at your local library with diagnostics and specs -- make copies of the right sections as they are usually only available in the REFERENCE section...good luck :)

Remove the belt from your 1992 Chevrolet S 10 pickup truck power steering pump. Remove the power steering pump hose. Remove the power steering pump retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install your new power steering pump.

Remove the wiring connector from the back of your headlight assembly. Take hold of the light bulb, push in and turn at the same time to remove. Reverse the process to install the new light bulb.

I would imagine it is in the oil pan

there are two nuts on the bezel behind the dash. you can reach them from underneath.

The 1999 Chevrolet Z 71 heater core can be accessed by removing the passenger side kick panel. Remove the heater core water hoses. Remove the heater core retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new heater core.

It is mounted under the drivers side of the truck in the frame rail.

The big difference with a vortec vs normal gm motors is vortec has different head design and the intake manifold have bigger runners. In 1995 vortec heads still used T.B.I injection with the top end of the engine being vortec head and intake mainfold.

You shouldn't need to gap the plugs they come per gapped when you purchase them.
Unless you are regapping your old plugs, then a Gap of .045is called for. Good Luck and Remember.
Change Your Mind, Not Your Oil.
Use the First In Synthetic Motor Oil's.
See My Bio For more information.

1999

In the very front of the engine on the camshaft pulley there should be a white line. You may have to clean it to find it. Directly above that line, there is a ruler with the timing marks. Assuming all of your plugs are wired correctly to the distributor and corresponding cylinders in firing order, you turn your engine to 12 degrees before top dead center or TDC (make sure with a whistle plug or a pencil in the #1 cylinder spark plug hole so as not to be 180 degrees off). Move the cam pulley a few times with the appropriate socket and breaker bar so that you know when you are approaching TDC. Right before you hear the whistle or you see the pencil at it's highest is before TDC It will take a couple tries. Don't go backwards, only forwards. Make sure you're in neutral with the wheels chocked. When this is set, you can try to start your engine. If you have a timing light, you can loosen the distributor from the intake manifold and turn your distributor to get it exactly right before snugging it back down. Lots of little tricks go into this depending on whether you have HEI or points ignition. If you have points and are setting a new distributor up, you'll need to make sure your dwell is set correctly. A .010" feeler gauge to set the distance between the point and the flat spot of the distributor's rotating shaft will do.

Stock rebuild- it has been said that 10psi per 1000 rpm. At idle 20-30 is about right once the engine is warmed up. Of course this will also vary with the weight of the oil used-not much but it will