Chevrolet

Transmission jumping hard is the malfunction causing check engine light to come on,most likely its the tcc solonoid causing this or a possibility of causing this.

Usually there will be a very loud rhytmic knocking sound coming from the block (entire engine) and sometimes through the exhaust in time with the rise of one piston. The engine will have an uneaven speed when cranking, but may or may not make noise until running. You will have a noticable loss of power and may have other complications if the piston is contacting the head or valves. Only a good mechanic can tell you whether you have a spun bearing, valve train problems, rod knock, broken rings, etc. so I would recommend that you have a reputable shop do a free inspection before jumping to conclusions. Good luck!

need more info what carb or fuel inj sys is on the engine?? Rochester 4MV series

To set the timing you first have to get the motor to TDC (Top Dead Center), the is where the #1 piston is at the top of the block. The easy way to do this is to pull the #1 spark plug out. Put your finger over the hole, have someone gently tap the key forward little bits at a time. DO NOT TRY AND START IT! You want the motor to slowly crank over for a second or so at a time. Once you feel air blow your finger out of the hole you are close to TDC. Go to the balancer and look to see where the timing mark is. It might not be lined up on zero on the timing pointer.(Unless you get really lucky. If its not lined up you will have to manually turn the balancer so the timing pointer tab and the groove in the balancer line up at zero. Loosen the distributor hold down, only enough to where you can move it, you dont want it moving on its own from motor vibration.Once your there start the car, let it warm up. (Top radiator hose is hot) You will want to time the car to 11 degrees while the car is at idle. Move the distributor until you hit 11 degrees. Once that is completed, you will want to have a buddy etc bring the car to 3000 RPM and have them hold it there. Time the car again and bring the timing to 25 degrees advanced. Your done. tighten the hold donw clamp up.You will have a total of 36 degrees. Too much timing can rob power and also casue dieseling which is when the car will run after it is shut off.

Get it warm shut it off then drain oil change filter[stp434] and fill with 6 quarts of new shell rotella 10w-30.

Remove the wiring harness from the back of your 1997 Chevrolet Z71 headlights. Remove the headlight retaining bolts. The headlights will come out. Reverse the process to install the new headlights.

Go Here >http://www.amsoil.com/scripts/runisa.dll?amsoiloaf:index< to look up your Truck since your Engine is not listed in the question 2500 HD or 2500 LD, Diesel or Gas. As to the Gear Oil to use, I suggest Synthetic Gear Lube SAE 80W-90 (AGL) from AMSOIL. Hope This Helps.

Danielle, VERY POSSIBLE. it is also possible that someone didnt get notified. Once GMAC assigns a repo, it will be on the hit list until GMAC closes the account with the repo co. There is NO time limit on when a repo is performed. Was it stolen??? Call the police and report it stolen. They will tell you if it was called in as a repo. Looks bad on you when you try to call a repo in as stolen. Call GMAC, they know if it was repoed. Good Luck

It is usually in the engine compartment. If not, many of the new belts have the diagram on the cardboard sleeve that they come in.

Feel both heater hoses-IF ONE is hot & NOT the other,then U have a bad heater control valve OR NO Vaccume going 2 the valve.If NO thermostat then the engine won't produce enough heat.IF the blend door aren't operating & stuck on C00l - then no Heat.LAST(not likely) if Impeller on water pump is worn down-not enough water will FLOW.

recommend doing a coolant flush and back flushing the heater core. Most likely it is clogged. If you have used stop leak in the past for a coolant leak than you might as well just put a heater core in, That stuff clogs up the heater cores

Check Thermostat and temperature senson for damage, and if need replace..

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I really doubt the thermostat and temp sensor are bad, it is most likely the heater core is clogged up. Take off both the inlet and outlet hoses and use an air compressor to blow air through it, gunk should spray out (which is causing the no heat problem) and when it warms up outside take off the inlet and outlet hoses (for the heater core) and hook up a garden hose to it and let it flush for about 15 minutes

== Starter solenoid? Neutral or clutch safety switch?
Bad fuesable Link? == Ignition switch.Or if replaced the motor you cut the wire between the bellhousine and motor.

With a wrench!!

I believe 180 F for most of the older small block chevy. Make sure the head gasket has "steam holes" since only the 400 uses them. The steam holes are above and below adjacent cylinders. Dennis

u have to remove the steering wheel,blinker switch,4 way button.then theres a screw in the switch to remove behind a little 2 prong plug.some u also need to turn key to remove

Large amount of oil leaking all over the place under your car when you shut it off, the smell of burning oil when you drive or come to a stop light and/or smoke coming out from under the hood, or a loss of oil in excess of a quart a month (I think that's the factory spec but not sure, still a good rule of thumb). Yes, most these models, Opel Omega and Cadillac catera have a plastic composite cam cover, most of them tend to loose their shape after time and heat and leak. Sometimes its just the gasket tho. They leak sparinglly at times and is noticable, there will be(especially if yu been driving alot that day) a smell i can onlee explain as oil but plasticky smell.Thats why most dealerships are replacing the cam covers with gaskets already on them. Getting the cam cover gasket alone is 1/4 less than just getting both cam covers. The upper intake manifold and wires and a few solenoids will have to be removed and or diskenected to remove the cam covers.

Retaining ring from the top of your 1979 Chevrolet Scottsdale ignition switch. Slide the switch out and remove the wiring harness. Reverse the process to install the new ignition switch.

depends on the year some adjust and some just torque all the way down... If they do adjust turn the motor one full revolution while watching the rocker arms. each of the rockers will go down then up.when one goes down the other will go up.then when they are both up back the rocker arm adjusting nut off until the pushrod spins . Tighten the nut slightly until the pushrod stops spinning then give the rockerarm nut one full turn.Do this by putting the ratchet handle at the 12:00 position and pull the handle around to the 6:00 position.then turn the ratchet back to the 12:00 position and pull down to the 6:00 position do this and that is one full turn.Then feel the rockerarm to see if it is tight.if it is still loose just give another 1/4 turn...Do this cold...And remove all of the sparkplugs...

Way too involved to post here. Purchase a repair manual for instructions and details. There is an order to set lifters according to "the book" which gives details as to which intake and exhaust valve is set. What you want to do is set each individual lifter when the camshaft is not engaging the lifter to be set. I can only assume you are refering to hydrdaulic lifters, as which these instructions pertain. Start at Top Dead Center( #1 cylinder will be all the way up with intake and exhaust lifters down). With fresh parts, apply assembly lube to the cam lobes, the entire lifter (careful not to plug the little hole where the lifter rod sets), lifter rod ends, and the areas where the rocker arm makes contact with the lifter rod and the valve stem. It is very easy to wipe out a fresh cam before oil gets to it during initial start up. If you are simply readjusting a working cam/lifter combo make sure everything is oiled well. Push the lifter down til it rests on the camshaft. If the lifter is down (about flush with block) it is ready to be set. If the lifter is up at all, wait for the next revolution. Set the lifter by slowly tightening the rocker nut and wiggling/spinning the lifter rod until the lifter rod does not freely move/spin. Turn the rocker nut another 3/4 of a turn. This will set the plunger in mid travel. Repeat for all other lifters not lifting. Now turn the crankshaft one complete revolution, and set all the other lifters. Should be able to set eight lifters each crank position.

Remove the wiring harness from the wiper motor. Remove the wiper arm linkage. Remove the wiper motor retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new wiper motor.

yes check the dmv records they will have records of that car who it was sold to and who all of the prior owners were

Depends on the heads. I have a set of 305 heads on a 355 and it runs hard. the heads have been machined for 2.02 and 1.60 valves. A stock set works to but look for mid 80's with a small cc. The main point being the smaller ports(intake,exhaust) will give you a boost in torque, but it will also raise your compression ratio. Don't forget to factor that in if you are,or decide to run power adders, or simply something that would cause an increase in your engine timing, because you run the risk of detonation.

None. Once you sign the contract you cannot cancel it. The Buyers Remorse law does not apply to the purchase or lease of a vehicle. Read the contract and see if there is a loophole you can use to canel the lease. Somthing like the car is not exactly as described or the seller changed the details without you knowledege, etc.

The antenna circuit is the most likely cause of the static. check to see that the antenna cable is plugged into the radio, and there are no loose wires.

"See the USA in your Chevrolet"

First, you need tools:
1. Flat blade screwdriver or butter knife
2. Phillips screwdriver (#2)

Second, you leave key out of ignition and everything OFF

Then, you take the screwdriver or butter knife and carefully pry away the plastic ring that surrounds the radio and heater/AC controls. There are 6 (six) clips under the ring, two on each side and one on top and another on the bottom. Once you have the ring off, you can see that there are 8 (eight) screws holding the radio and heater/AC controls in place. You have to remove all of them in order to take out the radio.

Once you have all 8 (eight) screws removed you can carefully pull both the radio and heater/AC controls out. On the back of the radio are three connections, the one on your left is removed by squeezing the top and bottom of the connector and slowly pulling on the connector until it comes out. The next connector is smaller and is removed in the same manner. The last connector is for the radio antenna and comes out by pulling it.

Now you have the radio out and removed!!

You can then install a new radio if you have all the adapters and wiring harness adapters and wiring diagrams. ... or you can put the radio back in.

I pulled my radio out to add a Sirius Satellite Radio to the factory system.