Audi A6

This is by no means a definitive guide merely a general brake pad/disc changing guide.*

1: make sure the car is parked on flat level hard standing and is left in gear with the hard brake on

2: 'crack' the nuts, whilst the car is still bearing the load through its wheels, loosen the wheel nuts only a turn or two ( a locking nut maybe required for at least one nut with some cars )

3: place your jack on the jacking point (normally located to the rear of the wheel arch about 5-6 inches under the car and is marked by two groves in the metal chasis running the length of the main load carrying area) jack up the car until an inch or two is of clear space is visible between the ground and bottom of the tyre, if you have one place a stand as close as possible to the jack on the metal rail the jack s holding the car up by, and lower carefully until the all the weight is being taken by the stand ( this will provide a far more stable platform for the car as jacks are often wheeled and you can find yourself sitting inside the wheel arch or under the car )

4: continue to loosen the wheel nuts until all of them have been removed then remove the wheel remembering to keep all the wheel nuts in a safe place!

5: the caliper will be fixed in place onto the brake disc using 2 nuts located behind the caliper (as you look at it form the side of the car) remove these to move the caliper from the brake disc, as the brake pads are normally with 1mm of the disc you may have to move the piston slightly using a screwdriver as leverage.

6: to change the disc remove the disc retaining clip, normally a large circlip and remove the nuts that hold the disc in place. then fit your new one and repeat what you have just done in this part but in reverse order

7: if you wish to change the brake pads simply place the new one's (make sure they are the same as the one you have removed! halfords has a small booklet attached to the brake pad/disc section, with car makes and models listed telling you exactly which ones you need for frontc/back) where the old one's were, remembering to replace the retaining clip if there is one present. (these are often just anti rattle clips, so do not worry is they are not present, however if you get new clips with the new pad's they are most likely more important and you should endevour to fit them)

8: to re-fit the piston is often a pain in the ass without the proper equipment but it is none the less achieveable with a bit of determination. firstly you will need to sit the brake pads correctly in their slots within the caliper, next try and slide the caliper over the brake disc, you can almost garuntee it wont fit, in order to make it fit you need to push the piston back (all the way in if you have replaced both brake disc and pads, and at least 75% of the way if you have replaced one or the other) this can either be achived using a 'g' clamp if you have one available, simply place a piece of wood on the piston and tighten the clamp until the piston retracts inside the caliper, unfortunately some pistons are wind in and out, in which case it will help and make life very simple so have the tool which will fit the groves that are in the caliper, with which you can simply turn like a screw until its is retracted sufficiently, as it is unlikely you will have such tool, a screw driver can be used to place across the grooves or even a pair of pliers to grip the piston and twist.

9: once the piston is retracted enough to allow the caliper (with brake pads in!) to slide over the brake disc replace the two caliper holding nuts you removed earlier. (now is an ideal time to either change or bleed the brake fluid in the system, how ever this is a two man job, without equipment that is very cheap and available from halfords with a complete operating guide (wow i sound like a salesman for halfords))

10: now replace the wheel back on to its perch and put the nuts back in through the wheel itself and tighten as far as they will go. finally lower the car (carefully!) back to tera firma and repeat three times!

note: the rear brakes whilst the same in principal will occasionally differ from the front, normally using a split pin and slide lock to hold the brake pads in place, this will however become apparent once the wheel has been removed and is faily simple to remove and replace.

Tool list (required) locking not if applicable, jack with a rating capable of lifting the car, socket set with sockets that will fit wheel nuts, large screw driver, sockets that will remove the nuts holding the caliper in place, Allen key/torque bit to remove brake disc holding nuts, 'g' clamp (a large spanner or screw driver will sometimes do if you can get good leverage/something to grip the piston to wind it back in or the piston winding key. this is a bare minimum and you will struggle with just these items however it is possible and i have managed it!

nice to have items: stand to rest the car on. circlip plier to remove circlip, something comfy to kneel/lie on, coveralls, later gloves, (a car mechanic's garage!) tool to re-wind caliper if req. an assorment of Allen keys, torque bits, socket sets are often useful (im not sure wether Audi use's imperial or metric measurements, i suspect being German effeciency it will be metric.

*this guide is by no means a step by step guide answering your question it is merely what i have encountered changeing brake discs and pads on my car and friends cars and is only my opinion. although while changing a the brakes it is always handy to have a haines manual around, which i would probably advise buying as it will also give you step by step pictures instead of just my text, and the exact tools you need!

i hope this has been of some use to you even if you just read the last bit that says buy a haines manual, alternatively you could just fork out and let a mechanic take care of it for you!

The turn and hazard flasher relays are incorporated into hazard switch.

NO IT IS NOT WORTH BUYING. The reason I say avoid this car is that any basic maintenance takes hours. A simple starter job or alternator takes a minimum of 8 hours to do. The bumper and rad system must come off. And the timing belt is just as buried. You are better off taking that $5000 and finding yourself a nice Chevy Corvette, it will be a must faster car, get you better chicks and maintenance is a breeze. Save yourself the headache and the hassle. Always buy American over European.

You need to remove the stereo first then the climate control unit then you can get at the ashtray unit. From there you can take it out and empty all the stuff that is preventing it from opening. I tried mine the hard way and ended up breaking it...not good.

Good luck!

Check: Fuse Turn signal flasher Switch at steering column Bulbs

Change starter 1996 Audi a6

Pull the knob (not push) next to the clock on dash display hour will light up. turn right or left to advance or retreat the clock hour, pull again for minute and again for the date so on and so forth

You will need to take the 2006 Audi A6 to a mechanic to have the service light properly reset. In some cases, a person can undo the battery to reset the light.

Where is the fuse box on a 2000 Audi a6 2.7t

Driver side, under the dash. Remove cover to access.

The 2007 Audi A6 has a 3.1 L base engine size.

The 2002 Audi A6 has a continuously variable-speed automatic.

http://www.isham-research.co.uk/quattro/torque.html

My source for recommendation.(live document)

Seems to be a small number like the oil pan torque amount.

10 to 20 American foot pounds ( without finding a specific answer).

Its Obvious That The Wipers have Work Hardened,the best solution is to replace them...it also helps to clean your windscreen with vinegar

8.3

The Audi Key (with built in small light bulb) takes a PX625A battery

10w40 mobil1

Required tools: Phillips and straight blade screw drivers. Make certain the car is off and the keys are not inside.

Highly recommended: You have the correct replacement bulb on hand before you start. Also, you might as well have a new air filter too. It is a simple thing to install the new filter while you have the airbox out of the car, and it never hurts to keep a clean filter in you car.

The right side headlamp on an 2006 Audi A6 is covered by the air filter and filter box. This makes getting to the lighbulb more difficult than some may want to attempt, but if you are handy enough and persistent, it is a fairly straight forward matter.

First remove the two large black decorative enging covers. (The front fan cover and the Injector manifold cover both lift straigh off with a gentle tug. Don't force them. you might need to wiggle them off their mounts a little, but there are no screws. Set them aside in a safe place.

Then remove the two Philips head screws above the front right side of the grill. These hold the front half of the air dam that feeds the air into the airbox/filter. Then remove the front half of the air dam by bending the felxible rubber of the back half a bit and pry it out of it's mouning from the grill. This takes a bit of force to get out, and the trick is to bend it back and towards the motor. Set it aside, then press top rear edge of the back half of the air dam with your thumb and lift it out of the triangular shaped input on the air box. (With the front half already removed, the back half of the air dam will come out pretty easily, but you do need to release the hidden molded catch on the top edge with by pressing it with your thumb first.

Filtered Fresh air hose:

This larger diameter hose feeds the fresh air into the engine from the air box. It needs to be moved out the way in order to remove the air back with the air filter. Loosen the two hose clamps holding the large round hose on the back of the airbox. These two clamps just need to be loosened enough to slide them back over the slight ridge on the hose. Then you should snug them up a bit so they can't possibly fall of the hose while it is loose. The large hose clamp holds the hose to the air-box, and the smaller one is under the previously removed decorative engine cover. This smaller one holds the hose onto the motor. . Before trying to move the hose, you will need to disconnect a small wiring connector that runs near the smaller hose clamp Use your thumb or the tip of a small straight blade screw dirver to release the catch and then slide the connector back and move it aside (away from the smaller hose clamp)

There are two smaller hoses that is held in place by friction clamps and mounts around the large hose you are trying to move... The one that is near the larger hose clamp has two black plasitc connectors that mount it onto the Air box. simply push these connectors off the air box. No tools required. The other small hose runs alongside the firewall side of the larger hose. This one just needs to be lifted straight up out of the semi-round friction clamps. Again, no tools required. You should now be ready to work the hose loose from the front and back connections and lift it up just enough to get to the top half of the air box. NONE of these hoses needs to be removed. They only need to be moved a few inches to make room for pulling out the air box.

The important part about removing the air box is to realize that it comes out in two pieces. First the top portion:

Release the two silver airbox clamps. The are located on the front and back of the box at the top. (near the inside edge of the fender). These clamps can be removed by pressing back with your thumbs. or a straight blade screw driver may be used if you can get them to pop off with your thumb. They don't come off. Just swing them back out of the way after releasing them both.

DO NOT loosen or release the hose clamp on the bottom rear of the air box. it is not attached to the motor and the short hose attached to it will be lifted out with the lower part of the air box assembly.

Now comes the tricky part. There are three plastic notches on the bottom inside edge of the top half of the airbox - near the motor. these act as guides and hold the top section to the bottom section of the airbox. You need to wiggle the bottom part of the TOP of the air box and lift it up until these come loose. Then slide and wiggle the entire top section of the air box until it breaks free from the bottom section. It is difficult and the important thing is that the bottom section needs to stay where it is until the top section is discconeted from it. There are hoses and a single wire connector on the back of the top section so be careful after you wiggle it up and out of the way of the bottom section. Release the wire connectors and the friction mount for the wire and your should then be able to lift and twist the top section of the air box out. It is a very tight fit. It will take some wigling and prying to get it out. Slow and steady wins the day.

The bottom half is held in place by three rubber bushing mounts two on the bottom and one on the inside. The inside one holds the lower airbox onto the inside of the wheel well, and there is a black friction pin in the middle of it that will need to be removed and put aside. I managed to get it out after wiggling and pulling on it for a while. There is probably a tool to use but I did not have anything that would work. Perhaps slipping a piece of twine like a noose around it and then using the end to pull it out would work. After removing the pin that holds the bushing onto the wheel well, you should be able to lift and twist the lower section of the airbox out. This will take some manuevering, but you have come to far to give up now. Set the lower half aside.

You can now see and more importanlty get access to the coverplate over the light bulb assembly. Be careful when trying to remove the coverplate! The trick is to gently push up on the two black tabs on the bottom of the coverplate, and pop the bottom out and then swing the top off it's two hinge/clamps. Don't over torque the bottom tabs or wiggle them or push down on them. They can easily be broken or cracked.

Now release off the single spring steel wire clamp on top of the light assembly cover. It does not come all the way off. Just swing it aside and then the grasp the silver box with the lightning bolt graphic and twist it counterclockwise about 1/8th of a turn. After rotating it should pop off and then lift out without drama. There is a single small wire harness attached. Unplug the wire harness. The connetor slides out easily. Set the silver box aside, and leave the wire hanging out of the way for the moment.

Now you are ready to release the two small spring clamps that hold the headlamp in place. These two clamps just push in a bit and then can be lifted out and way from the base of the lamp. The don't move very much but are key to getting the old lamp out and securing the new one, so be careful and gentle here. Slide the old lamp out.

I'm sure I don't need to tell you, but be certain when installing the replacement lamp that you DON'T touch the glass part of the bulb with your fingers. The oil from your skin will dramatically decrease the life of the bulb. It is also important to have the correct type and color rating (Xenon or not etc.) for your car. You don't have to buy the bulb from Audi either. I found two xenon bulbs on-line for less than 1/3rd of the price that Audi charges for a single factory replacement bulb. This is a matter of choice on your part, but for the thrifty, shop on-line.

Reassembly is much the same as dissasembly except you do everything backwards... ha ha, sorry I don't have the energy to type up detailed instructions on reassembly. Just make sure you don't forget to plug in the wire power cable back into the lamp cover box. This connector has a small ridge on one side that mates with a groove on the lampocver box. Be careful becasue the pins inside the coverbox are fragile and could easily be bent. Don't force anything.

Then test the headlights before you put the airbox back on. It would be a bummer if you put everything back together, then found out you forgot to plug the power cable back into the lampcover box or that the bulb was defective or something.

Good luck and always be careful!

back of trans is a cover , you will see tcm harness at top with slide lock plug connector .. hope this helps

Look on the left side of the dash beside the light switch, but you gotta open your door. you'll see a small slit where u can pop it up with a flat head screw driver or even your nail or something.

I found it at this site:

http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/radiocode.html

to fix the problem in the brake system

Turn the lights on with the main switch - either side lights or driving lights are fine.

With your hand/fingers stil on the main switch pull it gently back, the first notch/click is front fog lights only the 2nd notch/click is front and rear fog lights.

The ground clearance of the 2005 Audi A6 is 0 ft. 4.6 in. (4.6 in.).

The gas tank on the 2001 Audi A6 holds 18.5 gal..