BMW

My locks were not working properly on my 2007 328i so I opened gas cover latch manually by going into trunk, opening right side cover by taillight, then pulling on plastic latch relase.

answer

I stands for "injected" type of fuel delivery, either gasoline or Diesel.

The airbag light can be reset by resetting the entire control display on most cars. This is the same for a Z3 BMW.

A Beemer is the nickname for a car that is made by the BMW company. Any of the BMW vehicles are called Beemer's by the customers.

I'm not sure what you mean by adjust. There is now adjustment per se, but you can do a quick recalibration of the throttle sensor by turning the ignition on (not starting) for 10 seconds, turn the ignition off for 10 seconds, then starting the car. The effects of this procedure are questionable. The throttle body inself does not have any adjustments. It is driven by the computer based on the position of the accellerator and the throttle body position is read back by the computer to verify the position is correct. good luck, lc

something to do with the wiring, i have been told

A torch has six main parts. The bulb, the switch, the batteries, the wiring, the reflector, and the case. The switch connects the batteries to the bulb via the wiring. The reflector focuses the lamp beam, and the case holds all of the parts together.

The good news is the brake lights still appear to work even when this warning is displayed. Does anyone know if the brake lights are at risk of not coming on when you hit the brakes?

The first number stands for the Series 1,3,5,6,7- which the higher the series the higher the value and basicly more gadgets, the number following that is the sie engine 2.5 liter 2.8 liter so a BMW 328i is 3 series-2.8liter

The words "BMW TI ES" stand for Bayerische Motoren Werke AG Turismo Internazionale. Turismo Internazionale is an Italian term which means "international tourism".

it depends on what model you have, the obvious place would be in the brake fluid resevior mounteing the servo.

I have same problem on 1994 525i. Need a new control module which no one seems to have.

Sure it is with enough time, money and serious levels of mechanical skill.

remove the glove box at lower strap clips and 2 rear release hinge ,remove 2 covers on lower left passenger side carpet panals , . remove Pass side air duct at feet . In the very back left middle of firewall look up to your left with a flashlight. Remove plastic filter access door. Its the only cream colored plastic door back there.Its about 3 in wide and 8 in long One # 8 torks screw low on the door and a funny plastic blade at top that swings left to open. There will be a component box in the way of sliding out the filter.This small box is removable to allow the filter to be easily removed. Filters are 10 to 50 dollars. Bring vacuum with long narrow attachment for filter housing.

- Iginition OFF (POS 0)

- Press and Hold the trip odometer button while turning key to position 1 (ACCESSORY)

- Keep the button depressed (about 5 secs.) until you see "Oil Service" or "Inspection" with "Reset" or "Re" in the display

- *Note: On vehicles with "High" cluster, you will also see the amount of fuel (in litres) remaining until next service

- Press the button again and hold for approx. 5 secs. until "Reset" or "Re" flashes

- While the display is flashing, briefly press the button again to reset the Service Interval. After the display has shown the new interval you should see "END SIA" for about 2 secs.

Note that if the "Reset" or "Re" does not flash, then you have not met the minimum consumption level and cannot reset.

their is a little slot in the grill next to a bolt on the drivers side stick a flat head screw driver in the slot and turn it like a key back and forth until you can lift the hood i have the same problem havent replaced it yet

How do you replace a waterpump on a 1990 BMW 325i

The 525i is definitely a interference engine. It also has a timing belt that needs to be replaced every 60,000 miles to keep this from happening.

i found this answer while i was searching for something else on google .. i hope this helps you. Valvetronic From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia The Valvetronic system is the first variable valve timing system to offer continuously variable timing (on both intake and exhaust camshafts) along with continuously variable intake valve lift, from ~0 to 10 mm, on the intake camshaft only. Valvetronic-equipped engines are unique in that they rely on the amount of valve lift to throttle the engine rather than a butterfly valve in the intake tract. In other words, in normal driving, the "gas pedal" controls the Valvetronic hardware rather than the throttle plate. First introduced by BMW on the 316ti compact in 2001, Valvetronic has since been added to many of BMW's engines. The Valvetronic system is coupled with BMW's proven double-VANOS, to further enhance both power and efficiency across the engine speed range. Valvetronic will not be coupled to BMW's N53, "High Precision Injection" (gasoline direct injection) technology due to lack of room in the cylinder head, or the N54B30 bi-turbo engine. Cylinder heads with Valvetronic use an extra set of rocker arms, called intermediate arms (lift scaler), positioned between the valve stem and the camshaft. These intermediate arms are able to pivot on a central point, by means of an extra, electronically actuated camshaft. This movement alone, without any movement of the intake camshaft, can open or close the intake valves. Because the intake valves now have the ability to move from fully closed to fully open positions, and everywhere in between, the primary means of engine load control is transferred from the throttle plate to the intake valvetrain. By eliminating the throttle plate's "bottleneck" in the intake track, pumping losses are reduced, fuel economy and responsiveness are improved. It is important to note however, that the throttle plate is not removed, but rather defaults to a fully open position once the engine is running. The throttle will partially close when the engine is first started, to create the initial vacuum needed for certain engine functions, such as emissions control. Once the engine reaches operating speed, a vacuum pump run off the passenger side exhaust camshaft (on the N62 V8 only) provides a vacuum source, much as a diesel engine would, and the throttle plate once again goes to the fully open position. The throttle plate also doubles as an emergency backup, should the Valvetronic system fail. In this case, the engine would enter a "limp home" program, and engine speed would once again be controlled by the throttle plate. Valvetronic has so far been limited to BMW's mass-market engines, with no high-performance M-series car using the technology. The Valvetronic hardware adds a great deal of mass to the valvetrain, limiting maximum engine speeds (~7,000 rpm peak rpm in N52) engines and making it unsuitable for the high-revving M engines. Retrieved from "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valvetronic"

After a combined 10 - 15 hours working on this issue I have found the fix for the ill fated Brake Lamp Out indicator on BMWs. My wife has a 2002 BMW 325Xi but from what I understand most BMWs have the same issue from model to model and year to year. In short... There is no resetting this. You either have a tail lamp out or you don't. If all your lamps appear to be lit then you have a wiring fault. Now, some will tell you to go buy a brake switch... And that might fix it... But from what I saw on mine I'll gamble on a strangely poor design by BMW. Here's the problem. BMW use a "ground plate" to make contact with all the bulbs in the rear. You can actually take out the whole assembly (And should) to check your bulbs. Then look at the connection/connector. Now look at it with a magnifying glass! Mine had melted "Pin 3" (Ground, on mine anyway) on both sides though the driver's side was worse. This contact needs to be cleaned or replaced depending on how bad it has melted. You may need to run an additional ground wire. I think I read where BMW will charge to do this for you. But any competent person can run a ground to the brown wire on pin 3 to a ground on the frame. My theory is that the resistance of having all the current pass through that little ground pin makes it heat it up and it melts the surrounding pin holder. This allows the pin connector to come off in the main connector housing. When you take it off to check or change your brake or tail lights... The little connector is just forced up into the housing when you go to plug the loom back in to the back of the lamp assembly. This ends up with either having an intermittent connection or a total loss of connection. My wife's was intermittent leading to a total loss with the light always staying on. This may have been because I kept taking the light assemblies off to try to figure out the problem. THE FIX! - Use a jeweler's screwdriver to scrape the burned plastic off of the connection in the end of the plug. Force the brown wire forward through the plug until it is even with the front of the connector. Scrape the inside of the connector with the screwdriver to roughen it up. Do the same to the tab that is in the lamp housing... You may even need to straighten up the tab with a pair of needle nose pliers. Plug it all back in and enjoy not having to stare at that stupid Brake Indicator Light! Rick Kirby Pasadena, MD

simple fix tools time and patience. Book on repair will guide you in all.

Yes of course it will, you will have had no valve control and they would slap around and bend some if not all of them and even damage the pistons from contact. a "timing chain snapping" on an interfirence engien such as a 6 cylinder bmw is a disaster. some of the engine may be usable but i wouldn't hold my breath.