Chevy 305

ok here you go straight from the book passenger side front to back 2 4 6 8 driver side1 3 5 7

compression

No, but without it you'll need to manually shift it up and down for passing or other quick acceleration situations.

I don't know why you would want to spend money on 305 heads, when you could take that money and buy a set of good 350 heads already beefed up and ready to go.

After 500 lift you will need to do some head modifying. But what ever cam you use,you also need the valve springs that match that cam instaled on your heads. After 483 lift you will need to go to a long slot rocker arm to keep from cutting the studs in half.

Yes, but turbo conversions aren't cheap. There's a lot more to them than merely slapping on a turbo.

The early models had a vacuum hose only.

Late models have both.

Advertised horsepower is---140 HP @ 4000 RPMs.

5qts. with a new filter.

Yes it is.

20HP/ Horsepower. The 350 has 20 Hp more.

It will fit, but you might want to have the crank, rods, and pistons balanced first as there is a big difference in the weight of a 350 piston versus a 305 piston. Wouldn't want to get it all together and have a nasty vibration at certain speeds.

Use a dwell meter to set the points at 30 degrees dwell.

292.9. It is part of the LS family.

170 BHP and 255 lb/ft of torque

Start by setting the timing. Make sure it's right before you waste a lot of time on a non-problem.

Next, examine the distributor cap. You shouldn't see any cracks or black "spark traces" anywhere on the inside of the cap. It should be clean, no moisture.

If that's not the cause, check the carburetor's accelerator pump. If that's not functioning right you can get some backfiring.

Check the compression. Sometimes a sticky intake valve can cause trouble.

Needs a new carb. Replace the old one with a new reman. I had the same problem after a batch of bad gas

That is a good possibility, but you should also be on the lookout for weak ignition such as a bad cap and rotor, bad wires, bad coil.

I've also encountered this problem when the valves are not sealing against the seats good. Only solution for that is a valve job.

Yes it will.

Yes it is a fuel injected engine.

It does not have one.

Cleans antifreeze and dirt out of the radiator

Tune port injection--- TPI.

There is no vacuum at the nipple on the EGR VALVE.

The Vacuum line that hooks to it should suck your finger when you speed the engine up. That line will come from the TBI ( Throttle Body Injection housing) and hook to the EGR valve, and when the engine RPMs. go up it sucks the EGR VALVE OPEN.

UNDERSTAND.

This will take 2 people. Take the #1 plug out, That will be the first plug up front on the drivers side head. Now unhook the coil wire from the coil so it won't start.

Then put your helper in the truck so he can bump the engine over with the key when you tell him. Now put your finger over the #1 plug hole and tell helper to bump the key a little at a time until you feel air blow out from under your finger and then stop blowing. As the piston is moving up and down in the cylinder you will fill it suck on your finger and then start to blow out from under your finger, as soon as it stops blowing out then that will be the compression stroke and top dead center.

It may take a few times of bumping engine over until you get the fill of it and get it right. When it's right the mark on the balancer will be at 0 on the timing mark.

And the distributor rotor will be pointin to the #1 post on the cap and at #1 cylinder.

You can if it has the Chevy bolt pattern.