I had the same problem on mine and inside the motor all the plastic pieces were gone so I had to go to Auto zone and buy the parts to fix it.

Yes!

One of the "wheels" that the belt goes around is also the tension adjustment. When loosened it moves down to release tension. You may have to push and hold it down as well. See the diagram at this link - it should provide you with the corect information. http://autorepair.about.com/library/images/bl869a-lib.htm

Around 3500 lbs

Loosen distributor clamp located at the base of the distributor with 1/2 socket on a swivel extension. The bolt is on the passenger side. Wanna help do head gaskets?

You locate where the oil is leaking from (which can be a number of locations), and replace the failing seal.

That's the proper way to do it. Now on an OLDER HIGHER MILEAGE Vehicle here is my suggestion.

If you have a main seal leak - which can be at either end of the crank shaft , coming out from under the front pulley or dripping out of the gearbox housing - there is a *patch* one can attempt that has worked for me more than once and has been quite effective.

Put about a half pint of automatic transmission in the engine oil. THATS IT. It either works or it doesn't and what do you have to lose ?

What this does is softens and reshapes the edges of the oil seals that generally begin to dry out and get brittle with age.

The firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Use the small black cap on the distributor cap as a reference point, position one is two posts before it counter clockwise and then go clockwise. The center post is to the ignition coil. The driver's side cylinders are odd numbers, from front to back - 1 (by the battery), 3, 5, 7 (by the distribrutor cap). The passenger's side cylinders are even numbers, from front to back - 2 (by the alternator), 4, 6, 8 (by the distributor cap).

I'm not exactly positive but i believe it is in the glove compartment

The diagram is posted under the hood by the release. It should give you a fair idea where to look for the vacuum hoses for the air conditioner. There is a set of vacuum connectors on the fire all right behind the air cleaner that I think are for the A/C.

More than likely the nylon bushing has failed that connects the linkage rods together. It is a one dollar part that is designed to allow for slippage when the wiper blades are frozen to the windshield. Over time the nylon deteriorates and will eventually fail. They are a bear to get to and even harder to replace. While they can be changed with a big screwdriver/prybar and/or channellock or vise grip pliers I suggest checking with a local Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth dealer as they have a special tool which pops them into place. Most dealers will only charge you a few bucks to do this and will save your fingers, blood, and curse words for another day.

Taking a guess, Your 1988 5th Ave has a 318ci motor with Lean-Burn Engine control. Chrysler put the control module in the rectangle box attached to the side of the air cleaner. All of the engine control module is inside that box to include the transistorized ignition system. Your distributor will have two pickup coils in it and not have a vacumn advance located on the side of it which will be another way of telling if you have the Lean-Burn system.

In the power steering pump located on the front right side of the engine. It will have a pulley on it

The headlights run on a different fuse from all other lights. Locate and check this fuse. Also the headlight switch may have a circuit breaker inside and after time it will get weak and not reset. Check for power to the switch and if you have power to the switch and then the switch has gone bad and should be replaced.

Depends on overall condition, mileage, options, etc...

You must first remove the panel on the door which encases the opera lamp. Unplug the opera lamp assembly from the vehicle wiring and check for 12 volts at the plug with a test lamp. If the test light works then you have proper voltage at the plug, if it does not, check fuse number five which controls voltage to the dash lamps, tail lamps, opera lamps, and radio light dimmer. Replace if blown. If the voltage is present at the plug but the light does not work then the dc to dc converter is probably to blame. This is the stick-like device between the car wiring and the lamp wiring which is a shielded (gray) round cable. With an ac voltmeter the output of the dc to dc converter should be somewhere around 200 volts. If this voltage is present the lamp itself is bad. Auto zone has neon tubes in stock in various colors and various lengths which will replace the stock lamps with very little modification. Use the transformer box which comes with the neon tube and connect it to the car wiring. CAUTION: If you use the blue or the red neon tube expect some rookie cop to cite you for operating a red/blue light.

10w30

V8 318 CID (5.2L) Firing order: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

on my 1987 i had to remove the alt. it is under the pass side front engine. I also got longer fuel hoses and routed the fuel filter up higher on the fender.

hope this helps.

usually by the blower motor -- look behind glove box area or under hood near blower motor

Around $15,000

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Distributor rotates clockwise.

replace fuel pump. its on the pass side under the alt. or power steering pump on v-8 engines.