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There is no fuse for the compressor itself, if the compressor is not working, the low pressure switch has activated and there is not enough refrigerant in the system. Have your AC system serviced by a good shop or your local Chrysler dealer.

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This is a common problem with Chrysler corp transmissions. This is called "limp mode". It was designed to help you get home in the event of trouble. The transmission comunicates with the transmission, When it sense's a problem it goes into limp mode. The only thing to do is take it to a transmission shop and pay for the diagnosis. 90 percent of the time the transmission needs to be rebuilt of replaced from about 75000 miles and up.

You may just need to have the fluid and filter changed. Do you have a lot of miles on the car? That's the first thing I would do. It's also the cheapest route to go.

I can't recall where I read this at originally (it was online but it was a reliable source, that much I recall at least) but the problem may be a defective aluminum seal in the transmission. It lets in moisture. To repair you will need to completely drain and dry the transmission then fill it up with tranny fluid. It's not good enough to simply drain the transmission. You must open it up and let it fully dry. To stop this problem from recurring replace the alumiinum seal with a steel one (they are less likely to warp in hot and cold conditions). Any reliable auto repair shot that specializes in transmissions should know of this problem and how to fix it. Just ask them about a bad seal in ultradrive transmissions and if they can drain, dry and replace the seal. See below for more info (nothing on the moisture part specifically though, sorry).

http://www.autosafety.org/article.php?scid=100&did=563

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_42LE_transmission

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Truck dealers are essential for you if you are planning to buy a truck. These people will give you the best deals and the best trucks. However, you have to keep your eyes open. You must know that the truck dealers are in this for the money too and therefore they will try to make as much money from the sale as possible. Here are some things you need to keep in mind when you are trying to strike a deal with the truck dealer.

▪ The first thing to keep in mind is that the truck dealer has to be licensed. A lot of truck dealers are brazenly advertising their businesses over the Internet even if they are not authorized to sell. Since every local area has different regulations and certifications for truck dealers, you need to see that the dealer you choose meets with the requirements. ▪ Plan on a budget. This will be the money you will spend for your truck. Do not let the truck dealer smooth-talk you into buying something that you won’t be able to afford, even if they tell it is a much better deal. Take financing into account. Also take into account all the charges that you will have to pay when you will be closing the deal. ▪ You cannot negotiate with truck dealers. You will need a lot of skill to do that. What they will give you is probably the best price you can afford. You have to go with that. ▪ Choose a truck dealership that is collaborating with a financing body. That will save you a lot of footwork and headache.

If you are sure about the truck that you want to purchase, then this could be a breeze for you. The problem creeps in when you are unsure of the truck, because that is when the truck dealer will try to entice you with all kinds of offers. To cut a long story short, you must do a lot of research on the kinds of trucks available before you visit the dealer.

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Go to your local Chrysler dealer parts department and ask them if they can print a picture of it for you. Their catalog will show the belt routing when they look up the drive belt.

i just did one ,i went to the local auto parts store and asked for a copy of their belt book diagram. 9 times out of 10 they are free and a great way to fix it yourself.

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Most new wiring codes require dedicated circuit(s) for bathrooms. If the lights are dimming excessively, this could be an indication of a loose connection, which is a fire hazard. Have it checked by a qualified electrician - SOON. The service call is cheap, compared with what a fire could do.

run a dedicated gfci line to your bathroom

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The lower balljoint is pressed into the lower control arm.To remove the balljoint,you need to rent or buy a balljoint press kit.It makes it alot easier.The balljoint is connected to the spindle by a bolt and nut.Once it is removed you should be able to separate the Ball joint and spindle.The control arm is connected to the frame by two bolts to the crossmember.You may want to remove the brake caliper and hang it off to the side with some wire.remove the rotor to give you a better view.I suggest that you get a chiltons manual or equivelent to give you the finer details of this job.Be sure to use jackstands and work safely!!

I had to replace the right lower ball joint . I suggest you get the lower control arm I paid about 100 for one it has the ball joint already pressed in . and I did it with basic tools and a friend in about an hour .

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Under the hood, driver's side near the windshield is a box. Remove the lid and there are your fuses. I have a 1994 New Yorker and according to my manual, the cigar lighter fuse is in cavity 8. It requires a 20 Amp yellow fuse.

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I just did that. I found instructions on autozone.com. The only thing they dont tell you is you will need to get a serpentine belt tool, which you can rent at auto zone and you get your money back when you return the tool.

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sounds like your brake master cylinder is going bad. This should be fairly easy to replace.

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check the glove box or either door jam. look for a sticker with a 8-10, 4 number series of numbers it should be one of those numbers. or just call a dealership and tell them you need to order paint for your car and give them the vin munber. they can look it up or tell you the exact number.

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buy a hanes car manual for your car

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For starters let me explain what a horn looks like. Not to poke fun at you or anything, but if you knew what it looked like I think you probably would have spotted it. If you have ever seen a movie with vikings in it blowing on a horn to signal something, the horn under your hood has a similar shape. Usually a horn will be located on the front somewhere behind the grill, headlights, battery, etc. Sometimes it can be found on the fender but still towards the front of the vehicle. I own a 88 New Yorker and mine is located right next to the radiator. My girlfriend owns a 95 Dodge Avenger and hers is in the same place. My New Yorker is only a 3.0 liter engine so, yours being a 3.3 might be different, but I doubt it. Check on the passenger side beside the radiator.

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At the top of the Woodgrain trim panel, underneath the "eyebrow" of the dash are 6 Phillips head screws. Remove thes and it will come out. You may have to tilt the stering down to remove it. The bottom may be held by "Velcro" type fasteners. The will be 2 of them if they are there. Pry gently and voila, it will be in your hands and all in one piece! Go slowly and Gently or it will be in multiple pieces!

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check to see if anything fell apart (like if your window fell off track) and if it looks good have your window motor tested and if that's OK then check your window up and down switches.....I had the exact same problem with my 91 New Yorker, what I did was to take the inside door panel off and then manually lifted the window frame and placed a long screw in the metal bar that held it up... this was drastic as now it will not come down, but what's a girl to do when the motor dies? They are expensive.. and this was a quick fix.

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Drivers side of the engine. Back side down low, near the steering column.

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OBDII was mandated on all cars by 1996. Some 1994 and 1995 models had an OBDII port, but most (if not all) only provided OBDI information. These were called OBD1.5. I have never seen a 1993 model with an OBDII port.

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On the drivers door panel should be 3 push buttons. Once you have the seat and exterior mirrors in the desired position, press the "S" and then "1". The same can be done for a second driver, simply by pressing the "S" then "2". On the first 93 New Yorker we owned, you could even program a third position by pressing the "S" and then the 1 & 2 together at the same time. Our current New Yorker does not allow the third preset.

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There is no speedometer cable on a 1990 Chrysler New Yorker. The speedometer is electically driven by a speed sensor mounted on the transmission. often the contacts are just corroded and some electrical cleaner will fix it right up. Other times the sender will have to be replaced. They are available from major Auto Parts stores like NAPA, or from the dealer.

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it is on the left hand side of the steering wheel on the same stick as the windshield whipers. by: kristin stark of orange, tx This is a strange spot to put the flasher unit for the turn signals...Open the glove box..look at the fuse panel on the left... It's in that dark hole to the upper left of the fuse panel. I had to take out the screws holding the fuse panel and move it down and out of the way. Then you get to find someone with a smaller hand/arm to feel up into this access hole. It's very tough to see. There are both the four way flasher and the signal flasher located there. Turn on the signal flasher and feel which one is ticking. (you can feel it) If the signal flasher is not working, turn on the fourway flasher and feel it so you don't take out the wrong one. Pay attention to the orientation of the terminal prongs so you will be better prepaired for the replacement of the new unit. Good luck...

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I'm not sure what the colours are, but on the back of the radio are 2 plastic connectors. One is black, the other is gray. At one end of each connector there is a lug, so that it may not be inserted incorrectly.

On the Gray Connctor, held with this lug at the top, and on the right side as you look at it there will be 7 wires. from the top counting down 7=not used 6= left front neg. 5= right front neg 4=memory light 3=radio light 2=12V switched(ign) 1= 12V unswitched (Batt)

On the black connector, held with this lug at the top and on the left as you look at it, from the top counting down 1= right rear neg 2=left rear neg 3=right front pos 4=left front pos 5=right rear pos 6= left rear pos 7= power antenna.

So on the grey connector position 7 is at the top. On the black connector position 1 is at the top.

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it usually means you have one blinker out, so the blinking rate inside car changes to let you know...check all four turn signals. other wise check signal relay located under the hood or inside near fuse block/panel.

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Get a 13/16" spark plug socket and remove one plug at a time. Gap the new plug at .035. They are NOT pre gapped at the factory and you'd better make sure you check them. If you're not sure how, ask the guy where you buy them to show you how. Apply a small amount of anit-sieze compound to the threads and put the new plug in. After you get the new plug in, remove the wire from the distributor cap by pulling it straight out. Find a new wire as close to the same length as you can and put it in the cap and then on the plug. If you'll do it like this for all eight plugs, there's no way you can get the wires crossed. If you yank all of the plugs and wires out at once, you'll then have to get #1 piston up on top dead center on compression stroke and then remove the distribuor cap and see where #1 wire should go. The firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 and it rotates clockwise. Really a simple job. Shouldn't take you more than an hour.

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if it is the same model as in M

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It maybe that the starter has locked up. Have someone turn the key as you lightly tap the starter housing with a hammer. If it frees and starts, you've located the problem, a bad starter.

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The fuel tank, pump, lines, and filter need to be removed, clean tank, & lines, new pump, new filter.