Compost and Mulch

This is because, all thermal decomposition ( and all decomposition processes ) is an exothermic process. Well, if you need a full explanation, here goes. More energy is given off to form bonds then taken in to break bonds hence it is an exothermic reaction. Also, decomposition gives off heat energy.

Compost is measured in liters because it is a representation of volume, not just liquid volume. By measuring compost in liters, it provides a standardized way to quantify the amount of organic material being used or produced. This volume measurement helps in maintaining consistency and accuracy in composting processes and applications.

[1] Basically, all living things are made up of carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen, and oxygen. That's what they become once more when they die and decay. [2] And that's what happens in composting. Matter breaks down into its building blocks of carbon and nitrogen, with the addition of hydrogen by applying moisture and with the addition of oxygen by letting in air. [3] Energy is generated, by the build-up of temperatures within the pile. The temperature gets high enough to speed up the breakdown, but stays low enough not to catch on fire.

[1] Kitchen scraps and yard waste go into the compost pile, instead of landfills. [2] Animal waste goes into the compost pile, instead of effluent ponds. [3] Dead animal bodies go into the composter, instead of disposal sites.

Organic mulch is a type of mulch made from natural materials such as leaves, grass clippings, straw, bark, or compost. It is used to cover and protect the soil in gardens and landscaping while providing nutrients as it decomposes. Organic mulch helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, and improve soil health.

The most common paper-eating worms are Tineola bisselliella, also known as clothes moths. These larvae are known to feed on a variety of materials, including paper, fabric, and fibers. Proper storage and hygiene practices can help prevent infestations by these pests.

Compost is often measured in liters to indicate the volume of material being processed or produced. Liters provide a consistent and easy-to-understand unit of measurement for composting activities, helping to quantify the amount of organic matter being transformed into nutrient-rich soil amendment.

The chemical analysis of compost includes stability tests; and analyses of solid/waste chemical nutrients and of heavy metals and pesticides. Soil and waste nutrient analyses tell pH, and soluble salts levels. The pH typically may be about 7.0. Soluble salts level may be high if compost materials included animal manure. A relatively high reading is 4.0 mmhos/cm, on a solution of two parts water to one part compost. Such a reading may recommend leaching/rinsing, down to a conductivity measure of 2.0 mmhos. Compost exceeding this last reading may damage ornamentals. They also give percentages of all elements. Elements include calcium, magnesium, nitrogen, phosphorus, or potassium. There are threshold values to be met in terms of metals. Such metals include cadmium, chromium, copper, lead, mercury, nickel, polychlorinated biphenyls, and zinc.

Think of soil as a mixture of materials, some of them living (fungi and bacteria) and some of them non-living (minerals, water, dead plant/animal material). Although a geologist could give an extremely detailed answer, I usually think of soil particles as coming in 3 sizes: Sand (the largest marble shaped particles) Silt (much smaller irregularly, jagged shaped particles) and clay (extremely small, flat particles shaped like playing cards).

The ideal growing medium for turf is humus. This is a loose, friable, living soil system which is high in organic matter.

By adding compost (which by definition is material that has been decomposed by bacteria/fungi) to any of the 3 soil types listed above you are increasing the "fertility" or the ability of a plant to get adequate moisture and nutrients.

Some fungi digest rock (also known as minerals), other fungi digest organic matter (commonly thought of as any plant or animal tissue). This process of digestion by microorganisms puts all of the raw materials that plants need to sustain themselves into a form that is "available".

By "available", I mean that the compounds are bound to the soil particles in such a way that they don't just wash away at the first rain (water soluable vs. water insoluable). Another meaning of the word "available", when thinking of nutrients, is that an element (potasium or calcium for instance), is in a form that the plant can readily use. I visualize this concept in this way: I'm in a desert, longing for a drink of water. I come upon a giant ice cube the size of a house. Because i don't have any tools to break off a chunk of ice that will fit into my mouth, I can't consume any water and I continue to go thirsty. The nutrients in compost are "available" to plants (they are in a form that is readily/easily consumed) and consequently add fertility to any soil profile.

It is difficult to provide an exact number of people who compost worldwide as it varies greatly depending on location and access to composting facilities. However, composting is a growing trend in many countries as more people become aware of the environmental benefits it offers.

Yes, the Tudors likely used compost in their gardens as a natural fertilizer to improve soil quality and promote plant growth. Composting was a common practice during that time period to recycle organic waste and create nutrient-rich soil for growing crops.

Newspaper is an excellent mulch since it is organic, a good carbon source, holds water and breaks down into the soil. I shredded newspaper and used it to mulch my potatoes with excellent results.

Yes. Compost bins accept kitchen scraps other than dairy, greasey and oily, and meat products; and yard wastes such as grass clippings. Compostable materials may be grouped into the brown carbon-rich and the green nitrogen-rich categories. The peelings and other compostable materials break down into dark brown, fresh-smelling, organic matter-rich soil in anywhere from just under a month to just under a year. The amount of time that composting takes depends upon the type of material that's put into the compost bin or pile; and upon the meeting of certain standards. For the bin or pile must be kept adequately aired, heated, moistened and turned.

Yes, Magnolia Stellata needs ericaceous compost, but at the same time, no, it does not. The flowering plant in question prefers a slightly acidic to neutral pH level even though proper drainage and lighting let it survive in a variety of soils, including heavy clay. It therefore will have need of the acidic-loving, lime-hating compost in less desirable environments (where an ericaceous compost fertilizer helps), such as slightly alkaline (sweet) soils.

Yes, grass clippings belong in the compost pile. They break down readily within a year, cooperate with composting procedures, exhibit maneuverable size, and number among the eligible carbon- and nitrogen-rich recyclable materials from which dark-colored, fresh-smelling, nutrient-rich organic matter forms in the compost pile.

Vegetation that appreciate aeration, drainage, and fertility and that interact with soil food web members is the kind of plant that needs compost. Dark-colored, fresh-smelling, nutrient-rich organic material promote proper moisture infiltration and percolation and nutrient levels. The above-mentioned plants respond favorably to the way in which compost improves soil structure and texture.

paper napkins, pet hair ,wood chips , hay , leaves ,old species , pine needles, paper or wood

The compost will have an earthy smell and will not smell bad. It will have a very dark, almost black color, and it will look like good potting soil similar to what comes out of the bags you buy at the store. It should not have large pieces of debris left in it. It so, it must be turned over in the bin and given more time. See the related link below.

I love it when I get maggots in my compost bin because they speed the decomposition of the organic materials. Its important however to move the bin far enough away from the house that there are no objectionable odors. If you use a compost accelerant it will speed up the decomposition without attracting flies which lay their eggs and hatch as maggots. you can get compost alive for green matter from gardensalive.com which will do this.

the things that go in a compost heap are a variety of things, don't put food in, or moist things, use brown items such as soil, manure and green items such as vegetable waste.

also put in lime, because the alkali from the lime will counter the acid which is made from decomposing the items of the compost heap. make sure to put extra soil in aswell because that is where the organisms are that make the compost heap work. :)

Keeping air available for decomposition and respiration and micro-organisms and recyclables respectively alive and nutritious are reasons why mixing and watering speeds the decay of plant materials in compost piles. Air means that carbon- and nitrogen-rich recyclables will decompose through the introduction of oxygen and removal of carbon dioxide and through the support for respiratory needs of macro- and micro-organisms. Moisture, as long as it gives the compost pile the consistency of a wrung-out sponge, prevents composted and composting materials from drying out or overheating.

Your blades probably need to be sharpened.